Stripping the Paint - Revision history

Jbowman90: /* Supporting the Wing and Fuselage */

2007-12-31T14:41:13Z

Supporting the Wing and Fuselage

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:41, 31 December 2007
Line 72:		Line 72:
	[[Image:Fuselage on Side.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]		[[Image:Fuselage on Side.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]
	[[Image:Fuse-Bottom-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Two Places]]		[[Image:Fuse-Bottom-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Two Places]]
	[[Image:upsidedown-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage Upside Down Supported in ~~Twp~~ Places]]		[[Image:upsidedown-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage Upside Down Supported in Two Places]]

	The maintenance manual illustrates the lifting and shoring points, which are at the firewall and near the back edge of the honeycomb box portion of the fuselage. However, the manual does not show how to support the wings when removed or how to strip the bottom of the fuselage.		The maintenance manual illustrates the lifting and shoring points, which are at the firewall and near the back edge of the honeycomb box portion of the fuselage. However, the manual does not show how to support the wings when removed or how to strip the bottom of the fuselage.

Jbowman90: /* Supporting the Wing and Fuselage */

2007-12-31T14:40:51Z

Supporting the Wing and Fuselage

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:40, 31 December 2007
Line 71:		Line 71:

	[[Image:Fuselage on Side.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]		[[Image:Fuselage on Side.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]
	[[Image:Fuse-Bottom-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in ~~Three~~ Places]]		[[Image:Fuse-Bottom-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Two Places]]
	[[Image:upsidedown-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage ~~on Side~~ Supported in ~~Three~~ Places]]		[[Image:upsidedown-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage Upside Down Supported in Twp Places]]

	The maintenance manual illustrates the lifting and shoring points, which are at the firewall and near the back edge of the honeycomb box portion of the fuselage. However, the manual does not show how to support the wings when removed or how to strip the bottom of the fuselage.		The maintenance manual illustrates the lifting and shoring points, which are at the firewall and near the back edge of the honeycomb box portion of the fuselage. However, the manual does not show how to support the wings when removed or how to strip the bottom of the fuselage.

Jbowman90 at 14:40, 31 December 2007

2007-12-31T14:40:14Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:40, 31 December 2007
Line 69:		Line 69:

	== Supporting the Wing and Fuselage ==		== Supporting the Wing and Fuselage ==

			[[Image:Fuselage on Side.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]
			[[Image:Fuse-Bottom-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]
			[[Image:upsidedown-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]

	The maintenance manual illustrates the lifting and shoring points, which are at the firewall and near the back edge of the honeycomb box portion of the fuselage. However, the manual does not show how to support the wings when removed or how to strip the bottom of the fuselage.		The maintenance manual illustrates the lifting and shoring points, which are at the firewall and near the back edge of the honeycomb box portion of the fuselage. However, the manual does not show how to support the wings when removed or how to strip the bottom of the fuselage.

	In the pictures above, the wings are supported with padded sawhorses. When the wing is right-side up, the relatively flat bottom makes it easy to support. Even so, you want to position the sawhorses so that they are supporting the wing ribs. This is more critical if you have to flip the wing over since a relatively small portion of the rib is supporting the wing weight. Here's where good padding makes a lot of sense.		In the pictures above, the wings are supported with padded sawhorses. When the wing is right-side up, the relatively flat bottom makes it easy to support. Even so, you want to position the sawhorses so that they are supporting the wing ribs. This is more critical if you have to flip the wing over since a relatively small portion of the rib is supporting the wing weight. Here's where good padding makes a lot of sense.

	~~[[Image:Fuselage on Side.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]~~
	~~[[Image:Fuse-Bottom-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]~~
	~~[[Image:upsidedown-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]~~

	To get to the belly of the fuselage, it is better if the fuselage is flipped onto its side. It is recommended to do this only if everything has been removed from the fuselage so that it is just a shell. It is fairly light and handle be lifted by two people, but you'll need a third person up front to help rotate it because the fuselage is wide at the firewall. The fuselage can safely be supported by its two ends, but you can also add a sawhorse in the middle. If you do this, brace the fuselage internally at this location with a 2x4 with plywood on either end to help distribute the load. You will also want to have some way of adjusting how much weight is on each support. With just a shell, the fuselage CG is near the middle sawhorse, and that's where most of the weight is. By putting some addition padding under the fuselage aft bulkhead, the weight will be more evenly distributed.		To get to the belly of the fuselage, it is better if the fuselage is flipped onto its side. It is recommended to do this only if everything has been removed from the fuselage so that it is just a shell. It is fairly light and handle be lifted by two people, but you'll need a third person up front to help rotate it because the fuselage is wide at the firewall. The fuselage can safely be supported by its two ends, but you can also add a sawhorse in the middle. If you do this, brace the fuselage internally at this location with a 2x4 with plywood on either end to help distribute the load. You will also want to have some way of adjusting how much weight is on each support. With just a shell, the fuselage CG is near the middle sawhorse, and that's where most of the weight is. By putting some addition padding under the fuselage aft bulkhead, the weight will be more evenly distributed.

Jbowman90 at 14:38, 31 December 2007

2007-12-31T14:38:06Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:38, 31 December 2007
Line 75:		Line 75:

	[[Image:Fuselage on Side.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]		[[Image:Fuselage on Side.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]
			[[Image:Fuse-Bottom-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]
			[[Image:upsidedown-sm.jpg\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]

	To get to the belly of the fuselage, it is better if the fuselage is flipped onto its side. It is recommended to do this only if everything has been removed from the fuselage so that it is just a shell. It is fairly light and handle be lifted by two people, but you'll need a third person up front to help rotate it because the fuselage is wide at the firewall. The fuselage can safely be supported by its two ends, but you can also add a sawhorse in the middle. If you do this, brace the fuselage internally at this location with a 2x4 with plywood on either end to help distribute the load. You will also want to have some way of adjusting how much weight is on each support. With just a shell, the fuselage CG is near the middle sawhorse, and that's where most of the weight is. By putting some addition padding under the fuselage aft bulkhead, the weight will be more evenly distributed.		To get to the belly of the fuselage, it is better if the fuselage is flipped onto its side. It is recommended to do this only if everything has been removed from the fuselage so that it is just a shell. It is fairly light and handle be lifted by two people, but you'll need a third person up front to help rotate it because the fuselage is wide at the firewall. The fuselage can safely be supported by its two ends, but you can also add a sawhorse in the middle. If you do this, brace the fuselage internally at this location with a 2x4 with plywood on either end to help distribute the load. You will also want to have some way of adjusting how much weight is on each support. With just a shell, the fuselage CG is near the middle sawhorse, and that's where most of the weight is. By putting some addition padding under the fuselage aft bulkhead, the weight will be more evenly distributed.

Jbowman90 at 14:34, 31 December 2007

2007-12-31T14:34:16Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:34, 31 December 2007
Line 67:		Line 67:

	Once done with the detailing for that component, you may want to wash the surface again. If doing this work around other components, wait until they are all done.		Once done with the detailing for that component, you may want to wash the surface again. If doing this work around other components, wait until they are all done.

			== Supporting the Wing and Fuselage ==

			The maintenance manual illustrates the lifting and shoring points, which are at the firewall and near the back edge of the honeycomb box portion of the fuselage. However, the manual does not show how to support the wings when removed or how to strip the bottom of the fuselage.

			In the pictures above, the wings are supported with padded sawhorses. When the wing is right-side up, the relatively flat bottom makes it easy to support. Even so, you want to position the sawhorses so that they are supporting the wing ribs. This is more critical if you have to flip the wing over since a relatively small portion of the rib is supporting the wing weight. Here's where good padding makes a lot of sense.

			[[Image:Fuselage on Side.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage on Side Supported in Three Places]]

			To get to the belly of the fuselage, it is better if the fuselage is flipped onto its side. It is recommended to do this only if everything has been removed from the fuselage so that it is just a shell. It is fairly light and handle be lifted by two people, but you'll need a third person up front to help rotate it because the fuselage is wide at the firewall. The fuselage can safely be supported by its two ends, but you can also add a sawhorse in the middle. If you do this, brace the fuselage internally at this location with a 2x4 with plywood on either end to help distribute the load. You will also want to have some way of adjusting how much weight is on each support. With just a shell, the fuselage CG is near the middle sawhorse, and that's where most of the weight is. By putting some addition padding under the fuselage aft bulkhead, the weight will be more evenly distributed.

Jbowman90 at 12:45, 31 December 2007

2007-12-31T12:45:53Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:45, 31 December 2007
Line 34:		Line 34:

	Before you start anything, try to wash as much dirt and grease off of your airplane as possible. Not only will this allow the chemical stripper to do its job better, but you'll need to do it for this next Grumman-specific step ...		Before you start anything, try to wash as much dirt and grease off of your airplane as possible. Not only will this allow the chemical stripper to do its job better, but you'll need to do it for this next Grumman-specific step ...

			[[Image:Fuselage Taped Off.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Fuselage Taped Off]]

	Because chemical strippers will attack just about any kind of adhesive, the bondlines need to be taped off with aluminum/foil tape. Make sure the surfaces are clean or the tape may not stick properly possibly allowing stripper to get to the bondlines. The manual does not say so, but you'll need to tape/mask off anything else that you don't want the stripper to get into.		Because chemical strippers will attack just about any kind of adhesive, the bondlines need to be taped off with aluminum/foil tape. Make sure the surfaces are clean or the tape may not stick properly possibly allowing stripper to get to the bondlines. The manual does not say so, but you'll need to tape/mask off anything else that you don't want the stripper to get into.

Jbowman90 at 12:39, 31 December 2007

2007-12-31T12:39:30Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:39, 31 December 2007
Line 58:		Line 58:
	Once you have determined that you are done with the chemical stripper for a given component, pull the tape off of the bondlines. If you are lucky, a lot of the paint will come off with the tape.		Once you have determined that you are done with the chemical stripper for a given component, pull the tape off of the bondlines. If you are lucky, a lot of the paint will come off with the tape.

	[[Image:Stripping with Scotch Brite Wheel.JPG		[[Image:Stripping with Scotch Brite Wheel.JPG\|thumb\|200 px\|Stripping Paint Near the Bondlines]]
	\|thumb\|200 px\|Stripping Paint Near the Bondlines]]

	You will now need to sand the paint off that was under the tape. One method that works well and quickly, but requires some practice first, is a Scotch Brite wheel on an angle grinder. Because angle grinders develop very high RPMs, even a fine grit (green) can easily damage the aluminum if too much pressure is used or if left in one spot too long. Working one area too much may also cause heat buildup and may damage the bondline. Start with a coarse (brown) or medium (red) wheel to get through the Imron, then switch to the fine wheel (green). If you start with the green wheel, it will load up quickly. It can not be stressed enough to practice, especially occasionally feeling the surface to gauge how much you are heating it up. If it burns (on your practice piece), move the tool more quickly. Use a forward and back motion as you move the tool left to right. The Scotch Brite pads don't last forever, and once they begin to wear it's better to get a new one. One they begin to wear, it takes longer and more heat is produced.		You will now need to sand the paint off that was under the tape. One method that works well and quickly, but requires some practice first, is a Scotch Brite wheel on an angle grinder. Because angle grinders develop very high RPMs, even a fine grit (green) can easily damage the aluminum if too much pressure is used or if left in one spot too long. Working one area too much may also cause heat buildup and may damage the bondline. Start with a coarse (brown) or medium (red) wheel to get through the Imron, then switch to the fine wheel (green). If you start with the green wheel, it will load up quickly. It can not be stressed enough to practice, especially occasionally feeling the surface to gauge how much you are heating it up. If it burns (on your practice piece), move the tool more quickly. Use a forward and back motion as you move the tool left to right. The Scotch Brite pads don't last forever, and once they begin to wear it's better to get a new one. One they begin to wear, it takes longer and more heat is produced.

Jbowman90 at 12:39, 31 December 2007

2007-12-31T12:39:15Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:39, 31 December 2007
Line 58:		Line 58:
	Once you have determined that you are done with the chemical stripper for a given component, pull the tape off of the bondlines. If you are lucky, a lot of the paint will come off with the tape.		Once you have determined that you are done with the chemical stripper for a given component, pull the tape off of the bondlines. If you are lucky, a lot of the paint will come off with the tape.

	[[Image:~~Mechanically~~ Stripping with Scotch Brite Wheel.JPG		[[Image:Stripping with Scotch Brite Wheel.JPG
	\|thumb\|200 px\|Stripping Paint Near the Bondlines]]		\|thumb\|200 px\|Stripping Paint Near the Bondlines]]

Jbowman90 at 12:38, 31 December 2007

2007-12-31T12:38:44Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:38, 31 December 2007
Line 59:		Line 59:

	[[Image:Mechanically Stripping with Scotch Brite Wheel.JPG		[[Image:Mechanically Stripping with Scotch Brite Wheel.JPG
	\|thumb\|200 px\|~~Finishing Steps~~]]		\|thumb\|200 px\|Stripping Paint Near the Bondlines]]

	You will now need to sand the paint off that was under the tape. One method that works well and quickly, but requires some practice first, is a Scotch Brite wheel on an angle grinder. Because angle grinders develop very high RPMs, even a fine grit (green) can easily damage the aluminum if too much pressure is used or if left in one spot too long. Working one area too much may also cause heat buildup and may damage the bondline. Start with a coarse (brown) or medium (red) wheel to get through the Imron, then switch to the fine wheel (green). If you start with the green wheel, it will load up quickly. It can not be stressed enough to practice, especially occasionally feeling the surface to gauge how much you are heating it up. If it burns (on your practice piece), move the tool more quickly. Use a forward and back motion as you move the tool left to right. The Scotch Brite pads don't last forever, and once they begin to wear it's better to get a new one. One they begin to wear, it takes longer and more heat is produced.		You will now need to sand the paint off that was under the tape. One method that works well and quickly, but requires some practice first, is a Scotch Brite wheel on an angle grinder. Because angle grinders develop very high RPMs, even a fine grit (green) can easily damage the aluminum if too much pressure is used or if left in one spot too long. Working one area too much may also cause heat buildup and may damage the bondline. Start with a coarse (brown) or medium (red) wheel to get through the Imron, then switch to the fine wheel (green). If you start with the green wheel, it will load up quickly. It can not be stressed enough to practice, especially occasionally feeling the surface to gauge how much you are heating it up. If it burns (on your practice piece), move the tool more quickly. Use a forward and back motion as you move the tool left to right. The Scotch Brite pads don't last forever, and once they begin to wear it's better to get a new one. One they begin to wear, it takes longer and more heat is produced.

Jbowman90 at 12:37, 31 December 2007

2007-12-31T12:37:49Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:37, 31 December 2007
Line 57:		Line 57:

	Once you have determined that you are done with the chemical stripper for a given component, pull the tape off of the bondlines. If you are lucky, a lot of the paint will come off with the tape.		Once you have determined that you are done with the chemical stripper for a given component, pull the tape off of the bondlines. If you are lucky, a lot of the paint will come off with the tape.

			[[Image:Mechanically Stripping with Scotch Brite Wheel.JPG
			\|thumb\|200 px\|Finishing Steps]]

	You will now need to sand the paint off that was under the tape. One method that works well and quickly, but requires some practice first, is a Scotch Brite wheel on an angle grinder. Because angle grinders develop very high RPMs, even a fine grit (green) can easily damage the aluminum if too much pressure is used or if left in one spot too long. Working one area too much may also cause heat buildup and may damage the bondline. Start with a coarse (brown) or medium (red) wheel to get through the Imron, then switch to the fine wheel (green). If you start with the green wheel, it will load up quickly. It can not be stressed enough to practice, especially occasionally feeling the surface to gauge how much you are heating it up. If it burns (on your practice piece), move the tool more quickly. Use a forward and back motion as you move the tool left to right. The Scotch Brite pads don't last forever, and once they begin to wear it's better to get a new one. One they begin to wear, it takes longer and more heat is produced.		You will now need to sand the paint off that was under the tape. One method that works well and quickly, but requires some practice first, is a Scotch Brite wheel on an angle grinder. Because angle grinders develop very high RPMs, even a fine grit (green) can easily damage the aluminum if too much pressure is used or if left in one spot too long. Working one area too much may also cause heat buildup and may damage the bondline. Start with a coarse (brown) or medium (red) wheel to get through the Imron, then switch to the fine wheel (green). If you start with the green wheel, it will load up quickly. It can not be stressed enough to practice, especially occasionally feeling the surface to gauge how much you are heating it up. If it burns (on your practice piece), move the tool more quickly. Use a forward and back motion as you move the tool left to right. The Scotch Brite pads don't last forever, and once they begin to wear it's better to get a new one. One they begin to wear, it takes longer and more heat is produced.