Electronic Lamp Dimmer AA5-B - Revision history

Markm at 15:43, 3 September 2014

2014-09-03T15:43:37Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:43, 3 September 2014
Line 1:		Line 1:
	An exact replacement for the the high-power rheostat that controls the lighting in our planes hasn't been available for years. When mine became intermittent, I decided to install an electronic dimmer and obtain field approval via 337.		An exact replacement for the the high-power rheostat that controls the lighting in our planes hasn't been available for years. When mine became intermittent, I decided to install an electronic dimmer and obtain field approval via 337.

	I chose the model [http://www.bandc.biz/dimmerinstallation30a14v.aspx] available through [http://www.bandcspecialty.com/index.html B and C Specialty] because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls of [http://www.aeroelectric.com Aeroelectric Connection]) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.		I chose the model [http://www.bandc.biz/dimmerinstallation30a14v.aspx DM30-14] available through [http://www.bandcspecialty.com/index.html B and C Specialty] because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls of [http://www.aeroelectric.com Aeroelectric Connection]) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.

	One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob from the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.		One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob from the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.

Markm: Fixed broken link

2014-09-03T15:42:48Z

Fixed broken link

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:42, 3 September 2014
Line 1:		Line 1:
	An exact replacement for the the high-power rheostat that controls the lighting in our planes hasn't been available for years. When mine became intermittent, I decided to install an electronic dimmer and obtain field approval via 337.		An exact replacement for the the high-power rheostat that controls the lighting in our planes hasn't been available for years. When mine became intermittent, I decided to install an electronic dimmer and obtain field approval via 337.

	I chose the model [http://www.~~bandcspecialty~~.~~com~~/~~cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display~~.~~cgi?10X358218#dim30-14 DM30-14~~] available through [http://www.bandcspecialty.com/index.html B and C Specialty] because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls of [http://www.aeroelectric.com Aeroelectric Connection]) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.		I chose the model [http://www.bandc.biz/dimmerinstallation30a14v.aspx] available through [http://www.bandcspecialty.com/index.html B and C Specialty] because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls of [http://www.aeroelectric.com Aeroelectric Connection]) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.

	One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob from the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.		One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob from the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.

Bob Steward at 13:11, 26 February 2006

2006-02-26T13:11:46Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:11, 26 February 2006
Line 1:		Line 1:
	An exact replacement for the the high-power rheostat that controls the lighting in our planes hasn't been available for years. When mine became intermittent, I decided to install an electronic dimmer and obtain field approval via 337.		An exact replacement for the the high-power rheostat that controls the lighting in our planes hasn't been available for years. When mine became intermittent, I decided to install an electronic dimmer and obtain field approval via 337.

	I chose the model DM30-14 ~~from Aero Electric Connection~~ because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.		I chose the model [http://www.bandcspecialty.com/cgi-bin/ez-catalog/cat_display.cgi?10X358218#dim30-14 DM30-14] available through [http://www.bandcspecialty.com/index.html B and C Specialty] because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls of [http://www.aeroelectric.com Aeroelectric Connection]) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.

	One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob from the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.		One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob from the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.

Bob Steward at 12:59, 26 February 2006

2006-02-26T12:59:05Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:59, 26 February 2006
Line 3:		Line 3:
	I chose the model DM30-14 from Aero Electric Connection because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.		I chose the model DM30-14 from Aero Electric Connection because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.

	One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob ~~form~~ the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.		One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob from the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.
	The 337 for the Aero Electric Connection lam dimmer is at:		The 337 for the Aero Electric Connection lam dimmer is at:

	http://www.campbells.org/Airplanes/337s/index_Airplanes337s.html		http://www.campbells.org/Airplanes/337s/index_Airplanes337s.html

Joepcampbell at 22:45, 19 January 2006

2006-01-19T22:45:59Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:45, 19 January 2006
Line 3:		Line 3:
	I chose the model DM30-14 from Aero Electric Connection because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.		I chose the model DM30-14 from Aero Electric Connection because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.

	One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on a dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob form the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.		One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob form the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.
	The 337 for the Aero Electric Connection lam dimmer is at:		The 337 for the Aero Electric Connection lam dimmer is at:

	http://www.campbells.org/Airplanes/337s/index_Airplanes337s.html		http://www.campbells.org/Airplanes/337s/index_Airplanes337s.html

Joepcampbell at 22:44, 19 January 2006

2006-01-19T22:44:59Z

New page

An exact replacement for the the high-power rheostat that controls the lighting in our planes hasn't been available for years. When mine became intermittent, I decided to install an electronic dimmer and obtain field approval via 337.

I chose the model DM30-14 from Aero Electric Connection because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.

One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on a dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob form the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve.
The 337 for the Aero Electric Connection lam dimmer is at:

http://www.campbells.org/Airplanes/337s/index_Airplanes337s.html