Disassembly - Revision history

Bob Steward: Spelling correction

2014-02-06T20:11:15Z

Spelling correction

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:11, 6 February 2014
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	# Reaching inside the ELT covers through the larger hole in the ELT "shelf", if ELT is installed under vertical fin, put a 7/16" wrench or, using a long extension and 7/16" socket, locate the 2 nuts that secure the stiffener rod from the aft bulkhead to the HS forward spar carry through, and hold them as the AN4 (7/16" head) bolts on the pilot's side of the elevator center pivot bearing bracket are removed. (This is the "Trick" to getting the HS off, that all novices can't find, and even a few experienced removers have forgotten when in a hurry. <cough>)		# Reaching inside the ELT covers through the larger hole in the ELT "shelf", if ELT is installed under vertical fin, put a 7/16" wrench or, using a long extension and 7/16" socket, locate the 2 nuts that secure the stiffener rod from the aft bulkhead to the HS forward spar carry through, and hold them as the AN4 (7/16" head) bolts on the pilot's side of the elevator center pivot bearing bracket are removed. (This is the "Trick" to getting the HS off, that all novices can't find, and even a few experienced removers have forgotten when in a hurry. <cough>)
	# Remove the 4 AN6 (9/16" head) bolts on the aft spar, remembering that as the last one is pulled, the HS and elevators will come free, and this is NOT a one person job. Support the HS/Elevators at both ends while the last bolt is removed, and slide it straight back, avoiding any side to side or tilting, that can bind the HS against the fuselage and scratch the paint.		# Remove the 4 AN6 (9/16" head) bolts on the aft spar, remembering that as the last one is pulled, the HS and elevators will come free, and this is NOT a one person job. Support the HS/Elevators at both ends while the last bolt is removed, and slide it straight back, avoiding any side to side or tilting, that can bind the HS against the fuselage and scratch the paint.
	# Set on padded surface. Consider taping elevator tips to HS is you left the elevators installed. This makes it easier to move, store and re-hang HS in the future.		# Set on padded surface. Consider taping elevator tips to HS if you left the elevators installed. This makes it easier to move, store and re-hang HS in the future.

GregAmy: /* Removing the wings (4 place) */

2012-11-26T12:49:07Z

Removing the wings (4 place)

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:49, 26 November 2012
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	# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.		# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.
	# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.		# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.
	# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY ~~rock~~ the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.		# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rotate the wing around the spar up and down only 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.
	# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch you'll have access; remove this line.		# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch you'll have access; remove this line.
	# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing these lines that go to the tanks. However, take care to ensure you do not damage these extended lines as you remove the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.		# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing these lines that go to the tanks. However, take care to ensure you do not damage these extended lines as you remove the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.

GregAmy: /* Removing the wings (4 place) */

2012-11-26T02:11:59Z

Removing the wings (4 place)

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:11, 26 November 2012
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	There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.		There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.

	Placeholder here to convince some Grumman guru to write up instructions on how to remove the horizontal stabilizers (which you need to do if you're transporting the airplane on public roads on a trailer.)

	[[Image:4placetrailer.jpg]]		[[Image:4placetrailer.jpg]]

GregAmy: /* Removing the wings (4 place) */

2012-11-26T02:11:39Z

Removing the wings (4 place)

Bob Steward: Added detailed instructions for removing HS and/or Elevators

2012-11-26T01:34:38Z

Added detailed instructions for removing HS and/or Elevators

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:34, 26 November 2012
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	Placeholder here to convince some Grumman guru to write up instructions on how to remove the horizontal stabilizers (which you need to do if you're transporting the airplane on public roads on a trailer.)		Placeholder here to convince some Grumman guru to write up instructions on how to remove the horizontal stabilizers (which you need to do if you're transporting the airplane on public roads on a trailer.)

			[[Image:4placetrailer.jpg]]

			== Removing the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevators ==

			There are 2 methods, both explained below. Remove the entire assembly with elevators installed, or remove elevators individually, then the Stabilizer by itself. Much of it is in common, differences will be noted, removal of the entire assembly is explained first.

			# Remove tailcone plastic under rudder (8 sheet metal screws plus the position light wiring which unplugs at aft bulkhead)
			# Remove forward facing HS "fillets" at inboard ends of HS and fuselage sides. (4 screws, one upper and one lower each side, slide forward off clips)
			# Remove 8 AN4 (7/16" head) bolts on HS forward attachment (4 each side), exposed when fillets were removed.
			# Remove ELT covers on both sides
			# Remove cotter pins and clevis bolts from elevator control cables.
			# Remove 2 clamp bolts (AN4 - 7/16" heads) on elevator control horns and collect spacers that held the control horns apart.
			# Remove cotter pin, nut and bolt at the control horn pivot
			# Remove the 2 AN3 (3/16" head) bolts that clamp the trim drive to the jackscrew (under the HS and Elevators, that threaded thingy that comes out of the aft bulkhead). Secure dangling arms so they don't get fouled by other work, and DO NOT disturb the relationship of the threaded trim drive to the barrel nut and trim arms that are now loose. This is a RIGGING component, and quite easy to screw up, if you don't secure it now, so that it can't move.

			== For removal of elevators separately skip down to that section now ==

			# Remove the control horn to elevator torque tube bolts (Close tolerance AN174 bolts -- 7/16" heads), and carefully wiggle the control horns outboard ~1/4" on each side.
			# Using an extension (preferably 1/4" drive), back the upper and lower elevator stop bolts out of the aft bulkhead. They have Jam nuts on them to prevent rotation, which may require untorquing first, but usually the bolts can be unscrewed with the jam nuts left alone. For ease of re-assembly, disturb the jam nuts a little as possible and mark the bolts as "upper" and "lower", so that they can be spun back in to almost exact location, as these set the up and down limits of the elevators and are important rigging components.

			Skip down to Removing HS if you are leaving the elevators installed.

	~~[[Image~~:~~4placetrailer~~.~~jpg]]~~		== Removing the Elevators separately ==
			Having accomplished the steps above, begin here:
			# Remove safety wire and bolts that hold the trim "yoke" to the 2 elevators.
			# Remove the cotter pins, nuts and clevis bolts that attach the yoke to the individual trim arms.
			# Remove yoke and wrap safety wire through each hole where it was bolted to the elevators (forward end) to contain the spacer, etc.
			# On each elevator locate the 2 outboard bearing supports (lift elevator up and look in the bottom forward edge for "pockets) with a bolt and some safety wire), and remove safety wire, bolts and washers. Note that elevator will FALL when last bolt is removed, so have a helper support the elevator with the trailing edge UP so you can work on the bolts.
			# Slide elevator half straight aft, off of the bearing supports. Repeat last 2 steps for other side.
			# Using an extension (preferably 1/4" drive), back the upper and lower elevator stop bolts out of the aft bulkhead. They have Jam nuts on them to prevent rotation, which may require untorquing first, but usually the bolts can be unscrewed with the jam nuts left alone. For ease of re-assembly, disturb the jam nuts a little as possible and mark the bolts as "upper" and "lower", so that they can be spun back in to almost exact location, as these set the up and down limits of the elevators and are important rigging components.
			== Removing HS ==

			# Reaching inside the ELT covers through the larger hole in the ELT "shelf", if ELT is installed under vertical fin, put a 7/16" wrench or, using a long extension and 7/16" socket, locate the 2 nuts that secure the stiffener rod from the aft bulkhead to the HS forward spar carry through, and hold them as the AN4 (7/16" head) bolts on the pilot's side of the elevator center pivot bearing bracket are removed. (This is the "Trick" to getting the HS off, that all novices can't find, and even a few experienced removers have forgotten when in a hurry. <cough>)
			# Remove the 4 AN6 (9/16" head) bolts on the aft spar, remembering that as the last one is pulled, the HS and elevators will come free, and this is NOT a one person job. Support the HS/Elevators at both ends while the last bolt is removed, and slide it straight back, avoiding any side to side or tilting, that can bind the HS against the fuselage and scratch the paint.
			# Set on padded surface. Consider taping elevator tips to HS is you left the elevators installed. This makes it easier to move, store and re-hang HS in the future.

GregAmy: /* Removing the wings (4 place) */

2012-11-25T14:13:29Z

Removing the wings (4 place)

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:13, 25 November 2012
Line 36:		Line 36:

	Placeholder here to convince some Grumman guru to write up instructions on how to remove the horizontal stabilizers (which you need to do if you're transporting the airplane on public roads on a trailer.)		Placeholder here to convince some Grumman guru to write up instructions on how to remove the horizontal stabilizers (which you need to do if you're transporting the airplane on public roads on a trailer.)


			[[Image:4placetrailer.jpg]]

GregAmy at 14:12, 25 November 2012

2012-11-25T14:12:33Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:12, 25 November 2012
Line 1:		Line 1:
	A request on the GG for information on how to remove your plane from a non-airport landing site by disassembling it enough to fit it on a trailer or flat bed wrecker lead to this article and the check lists below.		A request on the GG for information on how to remove your plane from a non-airport landing site by disassembling it enough to fit it on a trailer or flat bed wrecker lead to this article and the check lists below.

	[[Image:2-place_no_wings.jpg]]		[[Image:2-place_no_wings.jpg]][[Image:4placewingsremoved.jpg]]

	== Removing the wings (4 place) ==		== Removing the wings (4 place) ==

GregAmy: /* Removing the wings (4 place) */

2012-11-25T13:58:33Z

Removing the wings (4 place)

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:58, 25 November 2012
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	== Removing the wings (4 place) ==		== Removing the wings (4 place) ==

	# Remove the tips.		# Buy a bunch of Zip-Locks bags and a Sharpie to keep track of all your hardware as you remove it.
	# Remove the aileron to control horn bolt at the center of the fuselage under the back seat.		# Remove the wing tips.
	# Remove the bolts to the outer aileron bearing bracket and aft spar.		# If you're going to be transporting the wings flat, remove the pitot tube and tie-down rings.
	# Slide aileron assembly with counterweight and bearing bracket out.		# Remove the aileron to control horn bolt at the center of the fuselage under the back seat (two separate through-bolts on the 4-place).
	# Lower flaps to access to the nut on the flap drive arm.		# Remove the bolts on the outer aileron bearing bracket and aft spar. Hold up the outer aileron to keep it from falling.
	~~# Remove~~ nut and washer.		# Slide aileron assembly with counterweight and bearing bracket out. May have to rotate it slowly to break the friction on the inner control horn; go slowly.
	~~# Remove outer flap/inner aileron bearing bracket. (can be a pain~~ to get to the ~~bolt heads)~~		# Lower flaps to access to the nut on the flap drive arm; remove nut and washer. Alternate method: leave arm attached and move flaps up and down as need to get access to the bolts in the following step. Your goal is to get access to the flap drive clamp bolts, an aluminum block that fits around the large torque tube, in the outboard corners of the "hell hole" under the back seat.
	~~# Pull flap out, some care~~ is ~~needed~~ to ~~break loose the RTV at the inboard end. Repeat on the opposite side.~~		# Back off (''do not remove'') the two "set" bolts on each flap drive torque tube clamp and loosen the pinch bolt at the inboard end of the tube. '''The 2 bolts that pin the clamp to the torque tube need only be backed out 3-4 turns, and will sometimes take the threads out with them if backed completely out.''' As per the above instruction, you may need to move the flaps up and down a couple times to get access to all the bolts. Be patient.
	~~# Back off~~ the ~~2 bolts on each~~ flap drive ~~torque tube~~ clamp ~~and loosen the pinch bolt. The clamp is~~ an aluminum block that fits around the large torque tube in the outboard corners of the "hell hole" under the back seat. The 2 bolts that pin the clamp to the torque tube need only be backed out 3-4 turns, and will sometimes take the threads out with them if backed completely out. Pull the torque tube out of the clamp block and first bearing bracket on the wing.		# Pull the torque tube out of the clamp block and first (inner) bearing bracket on the wing.
			# Remove outer flap/inner aileron bearing bracket (can be a pain to get to the bolt heads. Again, ''be patient'').
			# Slide flap out, some care is needed to break loose the RTV at the inboard end. Repeat flap removal on the opposite side.
	# Remove sump covers from under wing root.		# Remove sump covers from under wing root.
	# Disconnect ~~Pitot~~ line on left wing. ~~Plastic~~ hose that couples the 2 1/4" aluminum tubes is probably hard, just cut it and replace with new later.		# Disconnect pitot line on left wing sump area. The (probably clear) plastic hose that couples the two 1/4" aluminum tubes is probably hard, so just cut the plastic line and replace with a new part (it's cheap) later.
	# Disconnect electrical (~~Pitot~~, ~~Strobes~~, ~~Nav~~ lights, stall warning switch, etc.)		# Disconnect the electrical (pitot, strobes, nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.) in the sump area, both sides. If any wires do not have a connector in that area (for example, if someone added strobes), cuss at your A&P and snip the wire cleanly; you'll add a connector upon re-assembly. If more than one wire needs to be cut, cuss out your A&P some more and clearly mark each wire (colored tape, label maker, etc) so you'll know which is which on re-assembly.
	# Drain fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface.		# Drain the fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface. '''Alternate de-fueling option:''' buy one of those simple "shaker siphons" (example:http://www.boatshowproducts.com/super-siphon-hose) and use that to siphon out the vast majority of the fuel prior to pulling the sump drain. Makes for a lot less mess.
	# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).		# Do we need to state the obvious about '''using extreme care when de-fueling'''? The stuff is flammable, you know...
	# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar).		# Before you proceed further, here's a '''general AN-type fittings note!'''. You '''must not''' allow the bulkhead (or any) fitting in the wing (or lines) to rotate while you loosen the line nuts, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib and turn only the line nut. '''Do not''' rely on using leverage on lines or fittings to loosen these AN nuts, '''always''' use backup wrenches. These lines and fittings are not cheap!
	# Position 1 person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard ~~aft~~ edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip ~~lifts~~ UP to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time, while the person at the tip pulls OUT. You ~~are trying~~ to move the wing out from the wing root an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19 gallon tanks. ~~You MUST NOT allow the bulkhead fitting in the wing to rotate while you loosen the~~ line ~~nut, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib and turn only the line nut~~. On 26 gallon "long range" tanks you can ~~reach~~ the ~~bulkhead fitting at the second rib by~~ removing the ~~inspection covers from the inboard bay~~. ~~DON'T~~ take the ~~19 gallon tank inspection panel screws~~ out~~! The first bay on~~ the ~~standard tanks is WET! Same caveat applies to~~ the ~~26 gallon tanks about the bulkhead fitting~~.~~.. HOLD THE FITTING and turn only~~ the ~~line nut~~.		# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the small vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).
			# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': there are two round access covers just fore and aft of the sump cover area that give you access to the areas where these fuel lines go ('''not''' the ones outboard of the wing root seal; remove these two covers each side. Once removed you'll see two AN fuel line elbows, one each fore and aft, both sides; remove these elbows and the hard lines that go from these elbows to the fuel sump.
			# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.
			# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.
			# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.
			# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch remove this line.
			# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing this lines that go to the tanks. However, take care not ensure you do not damage these extending lines as you are removing the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.
			# '''All airplanes''': remember you've got wires and hoses that may extend into the wing through holes in the wing root. Do not rotate the wing so much as to damage these.
	# With fuel lines loose from wing, rock it as before, nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.		# With fuel lines loose from wing, rock it as before, nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.
			# Grab your favorite beverage and marvel at what you just accomplished. Then get back to work and get that airplane back in the sky!

	There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.		There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.

			Placeholder here to convince some Grumman guru to write up instructions on how to remove the horizontal stabilizers (which you need to do if you're transporting the airplane on public roads on a trailer.)

Jbowman90: Replace manual formatting with standard wiki markup

2008-03-01T06:38:48Z

Replace manual formatting with standard wiki markup

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:38, 1 March 2008
Line 3:		Line 3:
	[[Image:2-place_no_wings.jpg]]		[[Image:2-place_no_wings.jpg]]

	~~'''~~Removing the wings~~'''~~ (4 place)		== Removing the wings (4 place) ==

	~~'''1)'''~~ Remove the tips.		# Remove the tips.
			# Remove the aileron to control horn bolt at the center of the fuselage under the back seat.
	~~'''2)'''~~ Remove the aileron to control horn bolt at the center of the fuselage under the back seat.		# Remove the bolts to the outer aileron bearing bracket and aft spar.
			# Slide aileron assembly with counterweight and bearing bracket out.
	~~'''3)'''~~ Remove the bolts to the outer aileron bearing bracket and aft spar.		# Lower flaps to access to the nut on the flap drive arm.
			# Remove nut and washer.
	~~'''4)'''~~ Slide aileron assembly with counterweight and bearing bracket out.		# Remove outer flap/inner aileron bearing bracket. (can be a pain to get to the bolt heads)
			# Pull flap out, some care is needed to break loose the RTV at the inboard end. Repeat on the opposite side.
	~~'''5)'''~~ Lower flaps to access to the nut on the flap drive arm.		# Back off the 2 bolts on each flap drive torque tube clamp and loosen the pinch bolt. The clamp is an aluminum block that fits around the large torque tube in the outboard corners of the "hell hole" under the back seat. The 2 bolts that pin the clamp to the torque tube need only be backed out 3-4 turns, and will sometimes take the threads out with them if backed completely out. Pull the torque tube out of the clamp block and first bearing bracket on the wing.
			# Remove sump covers from under wing root.
	~~'''6)'''~~ Remove nut and washer.		# Disconnect Pitot line on left wing. Plastic hose that couples the 2 1/4" aluminum tubes is probably hard, just cut it and replace with new later.
			# Disconnect electrical (Pitot, Strobes, Nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.)
	~~'''7)'''~~ Remove outer flap/inner aileron bearing bracket. (can be a pain to get to the bolt heads)		# Drain fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface.
			# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).
	~~'''8)'''~~ Pull flap out, some care is needed to break loose the RTV at the inboard end. Repeat on the opposite side.		# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar).
			# Position 1 person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard aft edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip lifts UP to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time, while the person at the tip pulls OUT. You are trying to move the wing out from the wing root an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19 gallon tanks. You MUST NOT allow the bulkhead fitting in the wing to rotate while you loosen the line nut, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib and turn only the line nut. On 26 gallon "long range" tanks you can reach the bulkhead fitting at the second rib by removing the inspection covers from the inboard bay. DON'T take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! Same caveat applies to the 26 gallon tanks about the bulkhead fitting... HOLD THE FITTING and turn only the line nut.
	~~'''9)'''~~ Back off the 2 bolts on each flap drive torque tube clamp and loosen the pinch bolt. The clamp is an aluminum block that fits around the large torque tube in the outboard corners of the "hell hole" under the back seat. The 2 bolts that pin the clamp to the torque tube need only be backed out 3-4 turns, and will sometimes take the threads out with them if backed completely out. Pull the torque tube out of the clamp block and first bearing bracket on the wing.		# With fuel lines loose from wing, rock it as before, nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.

	~~'''10)'''~~ Remove sump covers from under wing root.

	~~'''11)'''~~ Disconnect Pitot line on left wing. Plastic hose that couples the 2 1/4" aluminum tubes is probably hard, just cut it and replace with new later.

	~~'''12)'''~~ Disconnect electrical (Pitot, Strobes, Nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.)

	~~'''13)'''~~ Drain fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface.

	~~'''14)'''~~ Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).

	~~'''15)'''~~ Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar).

	~~'''16)'''~~ Position 1 person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard aft edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip lifts UP to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time, while the person at the tip pulls OUT. You are trying to move the wing out from the wing root an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19 gallon tanks. You MUST NOT allow the bulkhead fitting in the wing to rotate while you loosen the line nut, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib and turn only the line nut. On 26 gallon "long range" tanks you can reach the bulkhead fitting at the second rib by removing the inspection covers from the inboard bay. DON'T take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! Same caveat applies to the 26 gallon tanks about the bulkhead fitting... HOLD THE FITTING and turn only the line nut.

	~~'''17)'''~~ With fuel lines loose from wing, rock it as before, nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.

	There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.		There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.

Bob Steward: Punctuation and spelling changes

2007-03-18T19:45:59Z

Punctuation and spelling changes

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:45, 18 March 2007
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	'''12)''' Disconnect electrical (Pitot, Strobes, Nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.)		'''12)''' Disconnect electrical (Pitot, Strobes, Nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.)

	'''13)''' Drain fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel (8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface.		'''13)''' Drain fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface.

	'''14)''' Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the vent line (some have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).		'''14)''' Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).

	'''15)''' Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar.		'''15)''' Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar).

	'''16)''' Position 1 person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard aft edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip lifts UP to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time, while the person at the tip pulls OUT. You are trying to move the wing out from the wing root an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19 gallon tanks. You MUST NOT allow the bulkhead fitting in the wing to rotate while you loosen the line nut, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib and turn only the line nut. On 26 gallon "long range" tanks you can reach the bulkhead fitting at the second rib by removing the inspection covers from the inboard bay. DON'T take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! Same caveat applies to the 26 gallon tanks about the bulkhead fitting... HOLD THE FITTING and turn only the line nut.		'''16)''' Position 1 person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard aft edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip lifts UP to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time, while the person at the tip pulls OUT. You are trying to move the wing out from the wing root an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19 gallon tanks. You MUST NOT allow the bulkhead fitting in the wing to rotate while you loosen the line nut, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib and turn only the line nut. On 26 gallon "long range" tanks you can reach the bulkhead fitting at the second rib by removing the inspection covers from the inboard bay. DON'T take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! Same caveat applies to the 26 gallon tanks about the bulkhead fitting... HOLD THE FITTING and turn only the line nut.

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:11, 26 November 2012
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	# Drain the fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface. '''Alternate de-fueling option:''' buy one of those simple "shaker siphons" (example:http://www.boatshowproducts.com/super-siphon-hose) and use that to siphon out the vast majority of the fuel prior to pulling the sump drain. Makes for a lot less mess.		# Drain the fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface. '''Alternate de-fueling option:''' buy one of those simple "shaker siphons" (example:http://www.boatshowproducts.com/super-siphon-hose) and use that to siphon out the vast majority of the fuel prior to pulling the sump drain. Makes for a lot less mess.
	# Do we need to state the obvious about '''using extreme care when de-fueling'''? The stuff is flammable, you know...		# Do we need to state the obvious about '''using extreme care when de-fueling'''? The stuff is flammable, you know...
	# Before you proceed further, here's a '''general AN-type fittings note!'''. You '''must not''' allow the bulkhead (or any) fitting in the wing (or lines) to rotate while you loosen the line nuts, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib and turn only the line nut. '''Do not''' rely on using leverage on lines or fittings to loosen these AN nuts, '''always''' use backup wrenches. These lines and fittings are not cheap!		# Before you proceed further, here's a '''general AN-type fittings note!''' You '''must not''' allow the bulkhead (or any) fitting in the wing (or lines) to rotate while you loosen the line nuts, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib (or AN elbow) with an appropriate backup wrench and turn only the line nut. '''Do not''' rely on using leverage on lines or fittings to loosen these AN nuts, '''always''' use backup wrenches. These lines and fittings are not cheap!
	# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the small vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).		# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the small vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).
	# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': there are two round access covers just fore and aft of the sump cover area that give you access to the areas where these fuel lines go ('''not''' the ones outboard of the wing root seal; remove these two covers each side. Once removed you'll see two AN fuel line elbows, one each fore and aft, both sides; remove these elbows and the hard lines that go from these elbows to the fuel sump.		# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': there are two round access covers just fore and aft of the sump cover area that give you access to the areas where these fuel lines go ('''not''' the ones outboard of the wing root seal); remove these two covers each side. Once they are removed you'll see two AN fuel line elbows, one each fore and aft, both sides; remove these elbows and the hard lines that go from these elbows to the fuel sump.
	# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.		# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.
	# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.		# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.
	# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.		# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.
	# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch remove this line.		# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch you'll have access; remove this line.
	# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing ~~this~~ lines that go to the tanks. However, take care ~~not~~ ensure you do not damage these ~~extending~~ lines as you ~~are removing~~ the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.		# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing these lines that go to the tanks. However, take care to ensure you do not damage these extended lines as you remove the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.
	# '''All airplanes''': remember you~~'ve got~~ wires and hoses that may extend into ~~the wing through holes in~~ the wing root. Do not rotate the wing so much as to damage these.		# '''All airplanes''': remember you have wires and hoses that may extend into the wing root. Do not rotate the wing so much as to damage these.
	# With fuel lines loose from wing, rock it as before, nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.		# With fuel lines loose from wing rock it as before - just slightly! - nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.
	# Grab your favorite beverage and marvel at what you just accomplished. Then get back to work and get that airplane back in the sky!		# Grab your favorite beverage and marvel at what you just accomplished. Then get back to work and get that airplane back in the sky!