Charging Systems - Revision history

Skyfrog: /* Troubleshooting */

2010-07-03T16:31:13Z

Troubleshooting

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:31, 3 July 2010
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	Visually check all of the wires and their crimped fittings. Pull gently on the crimped fittings, none of them should be loose. After 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Look for breaks in the shielding pigtails.		Visually check all of the wires and their crimped fittings. Pull gently on the crimped fittings, none of them should be loose. After 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Look for breaks in the shielding pigtails.

	Turn on both ~~Master switches~~.		Turn on the Master switch (both sides if split switch).

	=== AA-5x series 12V ===		=== AA-5x series 12V ===

Skyfrog: /* Turn OFF the Master at this time */

2010-07-03T16:30:12Z

Turn OFF the Master at this time

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:30, 3 July 2010
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	=== Turn OFF the Master at this time ===		=== Turn OFF the Master at this time ===

	We are through with the powered portion of the testing, so turn off the Master ~~switch~~.		We are through with the powered portion of the testing, so turn off the Master switches.

	Right about now you are wishing that you had installed the split nose bowl STC, because without it you have to remove the propeller to gain access to the alternator.		Right about now you are wishing that you had installed the split nose bowl STC, because without it you have to remove the propeller to gain access to the alternator.

Skyfrog: /* Troubleshooting */

2010-07-03T16:27:35Z

Troubleshooting

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:27, 3 July 2010
Line 25:		Line 25:
	Visually check all of the wires and their crimped fittings. Pull gently on the crimped fittings, none of them should be loose. After 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Look for breaks in the shielding pigtails.		Visually check all of the wires and their crimped fittings. Pull gently on the crimped fittings, none of them should be loose. After 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Look for breaks in the shielding pigtails.

	Turn on ~~the~~ Master ~~switch~~.		Turn on both Master switches.

	=== AA-5x series 12V ===		=== AA-5x series 12V ===

WikiSysop at 15:57, 1 February 2010

2010-02-01T15:57:05Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:57, 1 February 2010
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	[[Image:PP-VR.jpg\|thumb\|200px]]		[[Image:PP-VR.jpg\|thumb\|200px]]

	[[User:Az_gila\|Gil Alexander says:]] "This is almost a drop in installation - the second difficulty wrench is for the awkward access to the nuts on the aft side of the firewall. It is a change of an airframe component with a PMA part, so a log book entry and sign-off by an A&P is required.~~<br/>~~		[[User:Az_gila\|Gil Alexander says:]] "This is almost a drop in installation - the second difficulty wrench is for the awkward access to the nuts on the aft side of the firewall. It is a change of an airframe component with a PMA part, so a log book entry and sign-off by an A&P is required.
	The Plane Power generic installation [http://www.plane-power.com/images/12%20-%201001.pdf instructions] overlook the fact that the Grumman firewall may not be flat in the area under the regulator. This is not a big problem, but it does require the use of a few washers under each mounting bolt to act as spacers. Longer mounting bolts are also needed, and I switched to AN4 bolts for this installation. The firewall is scraped down to bare metal at the mounting bolts, and star type lock washers are used to ensure a good ground connection.
			"The Plane Power generic installation [http://www.plane-power.com/images/12%20-%201001.pdf instructions] overlook the fact that the Grumman firewall may not be flat in the area under the regulator. This is not a big problem, but it does require the use of a few washers under each mounting bolt to act as spacers. Longer mounting bolts are also needed, and I switched to AN4 bolts for this installation. The firewall is scraped down to bare metal at the mounting bolts, and star type lock washers are used to ensure a good ground connection.
	The electrical leads just have their old blade type connectors cut off and ring terminals crimped on. As shown in the instructions, one lead is not used in our Grumman installations. As with all of the crimp connections on your plane, make sure that high quality [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/insulterms.php terminals] are used (AMP PIDG is one good example), this is definitely one area to stay away from the cheap parts from the auto store.		The electrical leads just have their old blade type connectors cut off and ring terminals crimped on. As shown in the instructions, one lead is not used in our Grumman installations. As with all of the crimp connections on your plane, make sure that high quality [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/insulterms.php terminals] are used (AMP PIDG is one good example), this is definitely one area to stay away from the cheap parts from the auto store.

	This new solid-state regulator gives two major benefits over the old one - a built-in, reliable over-voltage protection circuit, and the ability to add an 'Alternator Failed' warning light on the early Grummans. This is not yet connected, but is simply a wire from the negative side of the indicator to the 'Lamp' terminal, and a jumper from the "Enable" terminal to the "Aux" terminal."		"This new solid-state regulator gives two major benefits over the old one - a built-in, reliable over-voltage protection circuit, and the ability to add an 'Alternator Failed' warning light on the early Grummans. This is not yet connected, but is simply a wire from the negative side of the indicator to the 'Lamp' terminal, and a jumper from the "Enable" terminal to the 'Aux' terminal."

	=== Plane Plastics Battery Box ===		=== Plane Plastics Battery Box ===
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	== Alternator Brackets ==		== Alternator Brackets ==

	~~[Gil Alexander]~~ The alternator bracket is a weak part on our Grummans and should be checked every time it is visible with the nose bowl off. This bracket was still in place, but was just held on by the washer under the rear bolt.		The alternator bracket is a weak part on our Grummans and should be checked every time it is visible with the nose bowl off. This bracket was still in place, but was just held on by the washer under the rear bolt.

	[[Image:Alt-bracket-broken_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px]]		[[Image:Alt-bracket-broken_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px]]

Az gila at 22:02, 31 January 2010

2010-01-31T22:02:18Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:02, 31 January 2010
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	[[Image:Alt-bracket-broken_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px]]		[[Image:Alt-bracket-broken_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px]]

	Note that a current new Lycoming part has a different number - 07A21443 - and is much thicker.		Note that a current new Lycoming part has a different number - 07A21443 - and is much thicker - 1/4 inch instead of 3/16 inch.

	[[Image:alt-brackets_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px]]		[[Image:alt-brackets_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px]]

Az gila at 06:30, 27 January 2010

2010-01-27T06:30:08Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:30, 27 January 2010
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	[[Image:old-VR.jpg\|thumb\|200px\|left]]		[[Image:old-VR.jpg\|thumb\|200px\|left]]

			----
			<br>
	== Alternator Brackets ==		== Alternator Brackets ==

	[Gil Alexander] The alternator bracket is a weak part on our Grummans and should be checked every time it is visible with the nose bowl off. This bracket was still in place, but was just held on by the washer under the rear bolt.		[Gil Alexander] The alternator bracket is a weak part on our Grummans and should be checked every time it is visible with the nose bowl off. This bracket was still in place, but was just held on by the washer under the rear bolt.

	[[Image:Alt-bracket-broken_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px~~\|left~~]]		[[Image:Alt-bracket-broken_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px]]

	Note that a new Lycoming part has a different number - 07A21443 - and is much thicker.		Note that a current new Lycoming part has a different number - 07A21443 - and is much thicker.

	[[Image:alt-brackets_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px~~\|right~~]]		[[Image:alt-brackets_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px]]

Az gila at 06:01, 27 January 2010

2010-01-27T06:01:22Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:01, 27 January 2010
Line 137:		Line 137:

	[[Image:old-VR.jpg\|thumb\|200px\|left]]		[[Image:old-VR.jpg\|thumb\|200px\|left]]

			== Alternator Brackets ==

			[Gil Alexander] The alternator bracket is a weak part on our Grummans and should be checked every time it is visible with the nose bowl off. This bracket was still in place, but was just held on by the washer under the rear bolt.

			[[Image:Alt-bracket-broken_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px\|left]]

			Note that a new Lycoming part has a different number - 07A21443 - and is much thicker.

			[[Image:alt-brackets_Small.JPG\|thumb\|200px\|right]]

Bob Steward: Corrected the AN bolt size, per off-wiki discussion with GilA

2009-07-08T15:16:56Z

Corrected the AN bolt size, per off-wiki discussion with GilA

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:16, 8 July 2009
Line 83:		Line 83:

	[[User:Az_gila\|Gil Alexander says:]] "This is almost a drop in installation - the second difficulty wrench is for the awkward access to the nuts on the aft side of the firewall. It is a change of an airframe component with a PMA part, so a log book entry and sign-off by an A&P is required.<br/>		[[User:Az_gila\|Gil Alexander says:]] "This is almost a drop in installation - the second difficulty wrench is for the awkward access to the nuts on the aft side of the firewall. It is a change of an airframe component with a PMA part, so a log book entry and sign-off by an A&P is required.<br/>
	The Plane Power generic installation [http://www.plane-power.com/images/12%20-%201001.pdf instructions] overlook the fact that the Grumman firewall may not be flat in the area under the regulator. This is not a big problem, but it does require the use of a few washers under each mounting bolt to act as spacers. Longer mounting bolts are also needed, and I switched to ~~AN3~~ bolts for this installation. The firewall is scraped down to bare metal at the mounting bolts, and star type lock washers are used to ensure a good ground connection.		The Plane Power generic installation [http://www.plane-power.com/images/12%20-%201001.pdf instructions] overlook the fact that the Grumman firewall may not be flat in the area under the regulator. This is not a big problem, but it does require the use of a few washers under each mounting bolt to act as spacers. Longer mounting bolts are also needed, and I switched to AN4 bolts for this installation. The firewall is scraped down to bare metal at the mounting bolts, and star type lock washers are used to ensure a good ground connection.
	The electrical leads just have their old blade type connectors cut off and ring terminals crimped on. As shown in the instructions, one lead is not used in our Grumman installations. As with all of the crimp connections on your plane, make sure that high quality [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/insulterms.php terminals] are used (AMP PIDG is one good example), this is definitely one area to stay away from the cheap parts from the auto store.		The electrical leads just have their old blade type connectors cut off and ring terminals crimped on. As shown in the instructions, one lead is not used in our Grumman installations. As with all of the crimp connections on your plane, make sure that high quality [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/insulterms.php terminals] are used (AMP PIDG is one good example), this is definitely one area to stay away from the cheap parts from the auto store.

Bob Steward: fixed broken link to Radio Shack VOM

2009-07-08T13:57:33Z

fixed broken link to Radio Shack VOM

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:57, 8 July 2009
Line 15:		Line 15:
	You need to find out exactly which part failed. The usual FBO response is to replace the alternator AND the voltage regulator. They don't have to do much troubleshooting and they sell lots of expensive parts. A Field Rep for [http://www.kellyaerospace.com/index.html Kelly Aerospace], one of the largest OH shops for alternators, came to an FAA Safety meeting and told the attendees that 8 out of 10 alternators returned to them as cores for OH worked when tested before disassembly. He stated that A&P mechanics in the field were NOT doing their job properly, and that better troubleshooting techniques were needed, rather than replacing so many functional alternators.		You need to find out exactly which part failed. The usual FBO response is to replace the alternator AND the voltage regulator. They don't have to do much troubleshooting and they sell lots of expensive parts. A Field Rep for [http://www.kellyaerospace.com/index.html Kelly Aerospace], one of the largest OH shops for alternators, came to an FAA Safety meeting and told the attendees that 8 out of 10 alternators returned to them as cores for OH worked when tested before disassembly. He stated that A&P mechanics in the field were NOT doing their job properly, and that better troubleshooting techniques were needed, rather than replacing so many functional alternators.

	If you have a Volt-Ohm meter, you can save lots of time and money. Inexpensive voltmeters are widely available from such vendors as [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92020 Harbor Freight] and [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=~~2103534~~ Radio Shack], often for as little as $10.		If you have a Volt-Ohm meter, you can save lots of time and money. Inexpensive voltmeters are widely available from such vendors as [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92020 Harbor Freight] and [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2999093 Radio Shack], often for as little as $10.

	To help you know what wire goes where, the maintenance manual has detailed schematics. Gary Vogt has re-drawn the [http://www.aucountry.com/ACA_Folder/Technical/Wire_Scan_76-77.jpg 76-77] and the [http://www.aucountry.com/ACA_Folder/Technical/Wire_Scan_78-79.jpg 78-79] Tiger/Cheetah schematics in a little less technical detail.		To help you know what wire goes where, the maintenance manual has detailed schematics. Gary Vogt has re-drawn the [http://www.aucountry.com/ACA_Folder/Technical/Wire_Scan_76-77.jpg 76-77] and the [http://www.aucountry.com/ACA_Folder/Technical/Wire_Scan_78-79.jpg 78-79] Tiger/Cheetah schematics in a little less technical detail.

Bob Steward: Spelling correction

2009-07-08T13:52:05Z

Spelling correction

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:52, 8 July 2009
Line 84:		Line 84:
	[[User:Az_gila\|Gil Alexander says:]] "This is almost a drop in installation - the second difficulty wrench is for the awkward access to the nuts on the aft side of the firewall. It is a change of an airframe component with a PMA part, so a log book entry and sign-off by an A&P is required.<br/>		[[User:Az_gila\|Gil Alexander says:]] "This is almost a drop in installation - the second difficulty wrench is for the awkward access to the nuts on the aft side of the firewall. It is a change of an airframe component with a PMA part, so a log book entry and sign-off by an A&P is required.<br/>
	The Plane Power generic installation [http://www.plane-power.com/images/12%20-%201001.pdf instructions] overlook the fact that the Grumman firewall may not be flat in the area under the regulator. This is not a big problem, but it does require the use of a few washers under each mounting bolt to act as spacers. Longer mounting bolts are also needed, and I switched to AN3 bolts for this installation. The firewall is scraped down to bare metal at the mounting bolts, and star type lock washers are used to ensure a good ground connection.		The Plane Power generic installation [http://www.plane-power.com/images/12%20-%201001.pdf instructions] overlook the fact that the Grumman firewall may not be flat in the area under the regulator. This is not a big problem, but it does require the use of a few washers under each mounting bolt to act as spacers. Longer mounting bolts are also needed, and I switched to AN3 bolts for this installation. The firewall is scraped down to bare metal at the mounting bolts, and star type lock washers are used to ensure a good ground connection.
	The electrical leads just have their old blade type connectors cut off and ring terminals crimped on. As shown in the instructions, one lead is not used in our Grumman installations. As with all of the crimp ~~comnnections~~ on your plane, make sure that high quality [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/insulterms.php terminals] are used (AMP PIDG is one good example), this is definitely one area to stay away from the cheap parts from the auto store.		The electrical leads just have their old blade type connectors cut off and ring terminals crimped on. As shown in the instructions, one lead is not used in our Grumman installations. As with all of the crimp connections on your plane, make sure that high quality [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/insulterms.php terminals] are used (AMP PIDG is one good example), this is definitely one area to stay away from the cheap parts from the auto store.

	This new solid-state regulator gives two major benefits over the old one - a built-in, reliable over-voltage protection circuit, and the ability to add an 'Alternator Failed' warning light on the early Grummans. This is not yet connected, but is simply a wire from the negative side of the indicator to the 'Lamp' terminal, and a jumper from the "Enable" terminal to the "Aux" terminal."		This new solid-state regulator gives two major benefits over the old one - a built-in, reliable over-voltage protection circuit, and the ability to add an 'Alternator Failed' warning light on the early Grummans. This is not yet connected, but is simply a wire from the negative side of the indicator to the 'Lamp' terminal, and a jumper from the "Enable" terminal to the "Aux" terminal."