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https://bondline.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=WikiSysop 2026-11-10T23:49:02Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.39.17 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Bob_Steward&diff=3852 2014-04-24T13:47:46Z

<p>WikiSysop: /* Remembering Bob Steward */ new section</p> <hr /> <div>== Remembering Bob Steward ==<br /> <br /> Bob passed away April 23, 2014, after a brief illness. Your memories of Bob Steward are welcome here.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=3851 2014-04-24T13:47:01Z

<p>WikiSysop: Protected &quot;Main Page&quot;: Discourage discussion on home page. ([Edit=Allow only administrators] (indefinite) [Move=Allow only administrators] (indefinite))</p> <hr /> <div>=Bondline=<br /> __NOTOC__<br /> [[Image:Bobstewardgadsden.jpg|thumb|374 px|Bob Steward at Gadsden, Alabama, April 22, 2010]]<br /> <br /> == Remembering Bob Steward ==<br /> <br /> We are saddened by the death of Bondline founder and contributor [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]] on April 23, 2014, after a brief illness. No more generous or humble person ever walked among us.<br /> <br /> Bondline will continue as a small part of our memory of Bob's good works.<br /> <br /> Please add your story of Bob's generosity to his [[User_talk:Bob_Steward|user discussion]] page.<br /> <br /> == About Bondline ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br /> <br /> Bondline is a place for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman Grumman] owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br /> <br /> [http://twitter.com/Bondline Follow Bondline] on [[Image:Twitterlogo.png|63x15px|text-bottom|Twitter]].<br /> <br /> == Important Grumman Resources ==<br /> <br /> * [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.ayaforum.org/ AYA Forum].<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list. Note that many topics have been covered previously on the Grumman-Gang and can be found in the Grumman-Gang archives, available to subscribers.<br /> * [http://www.fletchair.com FletchAir], the first source for [[FletchAir_Parts|PMA Grumman parts.]]<br /> * [http://p.webring.com/hub?ring=grumman;sid=33;id=33;hub The Grumman Enthusiast's WebRing].<br /> <br /> == Technical Information ==<br /> <br /> * [[General]]<br /> * [[Maintenance]]<br /> * [[Operations]]<br /> * [[337s]]<br /> <br /> == Tips from Bondline Contributors ==<br /> <br /> * [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]<br /> * [[True_Confessions|Grumman Owners &quot;True Confessions&quot;]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=3850 2014-04-24T13:45:28Z

<p>WikiSysop: Added tribute to Bob Steward.</p> <hr /> <div>=Bondline=<br /> __NOTOC__<br /> [[Image:Bobstewardgadsden.jpg|thumb|374 px|Bob Steward at Gadsden, Alabama, April 22, 2010]]<br /> <br /> == Remembering Bob Steward ==<br /> <br /> We are saddened by the death of Bondline founder and contributor [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]] on April 23, 2014, after a brief illness. No more generous or humble person ever walked among us.<br /> <br /> Bondline will continue as a small part of our memory of Bob's good works.<br /> <br /> Please add your story of Bob's generosity to his [[User_talk:Bob_Steward|user discussion]] page.<br /> <br /> == About Bondline ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br /> <br /> Bondline is a place for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman Grumman] owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br /> <br /> [http://twitter.com/Bondline Follow Bondline] on [[Image:Twitterlogo.png|63x15px|text-bottom|Twitter]].<br /> <br /> == Important Grumman Resources ==<br /> <br /> * [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.ayaforum.org/ AYA Forum].<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list. Note that many topics have been covered previously on the Grumman-Gang and can be found in the Grumman-Gang archives, available to subscribers.<br /> * [http://www.fletchair.com FletchAir], the first source for [[FletchAir_Parts|PMA Grumman parts.]]<br /> * [http://p.webring.com/hub?ring=grumman;sid=33;id=33;hub The Grumman Enthusiast's WebRing].<br /> <br /> == Technical Information ==<br /> <br /> * [[General]]<br /> * [[Maintenance]]<br /> * [[Operations]]<br /> * [[337s]]<br /> <br /> == Tips from Bondline Contributors ==<br /> <br /> * [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]<br /> * [[True_Confessions|Grumman Owners &quot;True Confessions&quot;]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Bobstewardgadsden.jpg&diff=3849 2014-04-24T13:38:14Z

<p>WikiSysop: Bob Steward at Gadsden, Alabama, April 22, 2010.</p> <hr /> <div>Bob Steward at Gadsden, Alabama, April 22, 2010.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Matthew_McNeill&diff=3715 2012-04-09T10:19:10Z

<p>WikiSysop: Welcome!</p> <hr /> <div>'''Welcome to ''Bondline''!'''<br /> We hope you will contribute much and well.<br /> You will probably want to read the [[Help:Contents|help pages]].<br /> Again, welcome and have fun! [[User:WikiSysop|sbw]] 03:19, 9 April 2012 (PDT)</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=User:Matthew_McNeill&diff=3714 2012-04-09T10:19:10Z

<p>WikiSysop: Creating user page with biography of new user.</p> <hr /> <div>I have 1970 AA-1 S/N 401 N6201L which was converted to a tailwheel using the DMA STC and has a O-320 150hp engine. I've owned the plane for about 1 year now and have about 130 hours in the aircraft now. The aircraft has many other STC's and 337's including skylite starter, split bowl cowl, wheelen Led landing light, DMA red lexan beacon, c/b conversion, 1/4 inch windows, Garmin 250xl nav/com. 2000 Total time and 180 SMOH.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Terms_of_service&diff=3647 2011-03-07T18:07:30Z

<p>WikiSysop: moved Terms of service to Bondline:Terms of Service</p> <hr /> <div>#REDIRECT [[Bondline:Terms of Service]]</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline:Terms_of_Service&diff=3646 2011-03-07T18:07:30Z

<p>WikiSysop: moved Terms of service to Bondline:Terms of Service</p> <hr /> <div>Please refer to [[Bondline:Privacy_policy|Bondline's privacy policy]] and [[Bondline:General_disclaimer|disclaimer]].</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline:Terms_of_Service&diff=3645 2011-03-07T16:55:23Z

<p>WikiSysop: Created page with &quot;Please refer to Bondline&#039;s privacy policy and disclaimer.&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>Please refer to [[Bondline:Privacy_policy|Bondline's privacy policy]] and [[Bondline:General_disclaimer|disclaimer]].</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=AA5A&diff=3559 2010-12-29T00:02:53Z

<p>WikiSysop: Fixed tables. Removed superfluous stuff.</p> <hr /> <div>The AA5A was manufactured from 1976 to 1977 by Grumman American, and 1978 to 1979 by Gulfstream Aerospace. There were 900 AA5As produced, 640 by Grumman American and 260 by Gulfstream Aerospace. It was marketed as the Cheetah.<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> |+AA5A Serial Numbers<br /> !Year<br /> !First<br /> !Last<br /> |-<br /> |1976||AA5A-0001||AA5A-0282<br /> |-<br /> |1977||AA5A-0001||AA5A-0522<br /> |-<br /> |1978||AA5A-0001||AA5A-0670<br /> |-<br /> |1979||AA5A-0001||AA5A-0900<br /> |}<br /> <br /> {| class=&quot;wikitable&quot;<br /> |+Bondline Contributors Who Own or Fly AA5As<br /> !Name<br /> !Year<br /> !SN<br /> !N Number<br /> !Handle<br /> |-<br /> |[[user:ddking|Dennis King]]||1976||AA5A-0018||N9652U||none<br /> |-<br /> |[[user:John_Garman|John Garman]]||1976||AA5A-0095||N9595U||none<br /> |-<br /> |[[user:jbowman90|Jason Bowman]]||1976||AA5A-0149||[[user:jbowman90|N9749U]]||none<br /> |-<br /> |[[user:mboyd|Mike Boyd]]||1976||AA5A-0211||N9811U||none <br /> |-<br /> |[[user:ddking|Dennis King]]||1977||AA5A-0321||[[user:ddking|N9921U]]||none <br /> |-<br /> |[[user:Roger_Rucker|Roger Rucker]]||1978||AA5A-0557||[[user:Roger_Rucker|N26390]]||none<br /> |-<br /> |[[user:Hortonjf|John Horton]]||1978||AA5A-0612||N26465||none<br /> |-<br /> |[[user:Mike_Bowman|Mike Bowman]]||1979||AA5A-0884||N3772C||none<br /> |-<br /> |}</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Test&diff=3558 2010-12-21T17:03:35Z

<p>WikiSysop: moved Test to Math Markup Example</p> <hr /> <div>#REDIRECT [[Math Markup Example]]</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Math_Markup_Example&diff=3557 2010-12-21T17:03:35Z

<p>WikiSysop: moved Test to Math Markup Example</p> <hr /> <div>This is a test page.<br /> <br /> &lt;math&gt;<br /> \operatorname{erfc}(x) =<br /> \frac{2}{\sqrt{\pi}} \int_x^{\infty} e^{-t^2}\,dt =<br /> \frac{e^{-x^2}}{x\sqrt{\pi}}\sum_{n=0}^\infty (-1)^n \frac{(2n)!}{n!(2x)^{2n}}<br /> &lt;/math&gt;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Math_Markup_Example&diff=3556 2010-12-21T17:02:43Z

<p>WikiSysop: Protected &quot;Test&quot;: Protecting this page as an example of math markup. ([edit=sysop] (indefinite) [move=sysop] (indefinite))</p> <hr /> <div>This is a test page.<br /> <br /> &lt;math&gt;<br /> \operatorname{erfc}(x) =<br /> \frac{2}{\sqrt{\pi}} \int_x^{\infty} e^{-t^2}\,dt =<br /> \frac{e^{-x^2}}{x\sqrt{\pi}}\sum_{n=0}^\infty (-1)^n \frac{(2n)!}{n!(2x)^{2n}}<br /> &lt;/math&gt;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Maintenance&diff=3551 2010-12-13T14:21:54Z

<p>WikiSysop: /* Airframe */ Corrected links.</p> <hr /> <div>We've organized this section to mirror the headings in the factory maintenance manual. Note that the section headings are &quot;clickable&quot; and take you to summary pages for that section. Links are repeated on those summary pages.<br /> <br /> == [[Maintenance: General|General]] ==<br /> <br /> * Required Information and Documentation<br /> * Logbooks and Recording<br /> <br /> == [[Servicing]] ==<br /> <br /> * Inspections<br /> * Oil Changes<br /> * Tire Air Pressure<br /> * Grease and Fluids references<br /> <br /> == [[Airframe]] ==<br /> <br /> * Disassembly<br /> * Dorsal Fin Replacement<br /> * Headliner<br /> * Rear and Canopy Headliner<br /> * [[Interior Trim]]<br /> * Whelen Strobe Installation Inside the Red Rudder Cap<br /> * [[Window Replacement]]<br /> * Replacement Parts<br /> <br /> == [[Landing Gear]] ==<br /> <br /> * Brake System<br /> * Nose Strut<br /> * Wheels<br /> * Main Landing Gear Attach Bolts<br /> * Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement<br /> <br /> == [[Control Systems]] ==<br /> <br /> * Rigging<br /> * Stall Warning System<br /> <br /> == [[Powerplant]] ==<br /> <br /> * Engine Baffles<br /> * Engine Swaps and Mods<br /> * Cylinders<br /> * Oil and Filter<br /> * Overhaul and field service <br /> * TBO considerations<br /> * Valve Wobble Testing<br /> * Vacuum Pump<br /> <br /> == [[Propeller]] ==<br /> <br /> * Back Plate<br /> <br /> == [[Fuel System]] ==<br /> <br /> * Fuel Tank Leaks<br /> * Auxiliary Fuel Tank<br /> * Fuel Level Transmitter<br /> * Fuel Tank Drains<br /> <br /> == [[Instrumentation]] ==<br /> <br /> * Installing Mitchell Gauges<br /> * Installing a Horizon P-1000 tachometer<br /> <br /> == [[Structural Repair]] ==<br /> <br /> * An Example Repair<br /> * Lower Cowling Split<br /> * Repair of Debonding<br /> * Tail Tiedown Repair<br /> <br /> == [[Preparations for Painting|Painting]] ==<br /> <br /> * Preparations for Painting<br /> <br /> == [[Electrical Systems]] ==<br /> <br /> * Charging Systems<br /> * Panel Switches</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Math_Markup_Example&diff=3443 2010-05-10T20:15:41Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>This is a test page.<br /> <br /> &lt;math&gt;<br /> \operatorname{erfc}(x) =<br /> \frac{2}{\sqrt{\pi}} \int_x^{\infty} e^{-t^2}\,dt =<br /> \frac{e^{-x^2}}{x\sqrt{\pi}}\sum_{n=0}^\infty (-1)^n \frac{(2n)!}{n!(2x)^{2n}}<br /> &lt;/math&gt;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Math_Markup_Example&diff=3442 2010-05-06T22:57:10Z

<p>WikiSysop: Created page with &#039;This is a test page.&#039;</p> <hr /> <div>This is a test page.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline:Users&diff=3441 2010-04-12T19:16:11Z

<p>WikiSysop: Protected &quot;Bondline:Users&quot; ([edit=sysop] (indefinite) [move=sysop] (indefinite))</p> <hr /> <div>The page with the title &quot;Bondline:Users&quot; is locked.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline:Users&diff=3440 2010-04-12T19:15:42Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>The page with the title &quot;Bondline:Users&quot; is locked.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline:Users&diff=3439 2010-04-12T19:15:04Z

<p>WikiSysop: moved Bondline:Users to Cheetah/Tiger Fuel Dip Stick (26 gal Fuel Tank):&amp;#32;The original name, &quot;Bondline:Users,&quot; doesn&#039;t make any sense.</p> <hr /> <div>#REDIRECT [[Cheetah/Tiger Fuel Dip Stick (26 gal Fuel Tank)]]</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Cheetah/Tiger_Fuel_Dip_Stick_(26_gal_Fuel_Tank)&diff=3438 2010-04-12T19:15:04Z

<p>WikiSysop: moved Bondline:Users to Cheetah/Tiger Fuel Dip Stick (26 gal Fuel Tank):&amp;#32;The original name, &quot;Bondline:Users,&quot; doesn&#039;t make any sense.</p> <hr /> <div><br /> <br /> '''Cheetah/Tiger Fuel Dip Stick'''<br /> (26 gal Fuel Tank)<br /> <br /> Millimeters US Gallons<br /> <br /> <br /> 6 8 <br /> 12 9 <br /> 18 10 <br /> 24 11 <br /> 30 12 <br /> 36 13 <br /> 42 14 <br /> 48 15 <br /> 54 16 <br /> 60 17 <br /> 67 18 <br /> 74 19 <br /> 81 20 <br /> 88 21 <br /> 96 22 <br /> 105 23 <br /> 115 24 <br /> 126 25 <br /> 140 26 <br /> <br /> '''Measurement Procedures *'''<br /> <br /> 1. The airframe was leveled at the canopy rails prior to draining fuel and throughout the filling procedure. No attempt was made to level the airframe from front to rear.<br /> <br /> 2. All Fuel was drained from the wing by removing the under-wing quick drain. A small amount of fuel may have remained in the tank below the level of the quick drain. <br /> <br /> 3. No effort was made to remove fuel from the fuel lines, wing root sump, fuel pumps, gauges, or carburetor.<br /> <br /> 4. Fuel levels were measured to the nearest millimeter after carefully adding each gallon for a total of 26 gallons. <br /> <br /> 5. Fuel level measurements were made with a fuel stick placed perpendicular to the ground (not at right angle to the bottom of the fuel tank) in the direct center of the fuel filler opening<br /> <br /> * Measurements were made in millimeters because they provide smaller gradations than the fractional inch scale.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Charging_Systems&diff=3436 2010-02-01T15:57:05Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>__TOC__<br /> <br /> == The Basics ==<br /> <br /> The battery stores power chemically, the alternator converts the engine's rotating motion into electrical energy, the Voltage Regulator (also known as the &quot;Alternator Control Unit&quot;, or ACU) controls the alternator's output to keep the battery charged, but not over charged (which results in boiling out its acid).<br /> <br /> For a more detailed explanation of charging system operation and theory, a quick Google search usually does the trick. Rather than rehash the theory here, [http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/AlternatorGeneratorTheory.htm Rowand.net] has a fairly good explanation of how generators and alternators work as well as the regulator.<br /> <br /> == Troubleshooting ==<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:'''[[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''The usual scenario''' ... Your battery started discharging during your last flight. You shed loads by turning off unneeded equipment until you arrived at the airport and landed normally. Congrats on handling the in flight portion properly. Now how do you get it repaired?<br /> <br /> You need to find out exactly which part failed. The usual FBO response is to replace the alternator AND the voltage regulator. They don't have to do much troubleshooting and they sell lots of expensive parts. A Field Rep for [http://www.kellyaerospace.com/index.html Kelly Aerospace], one of the largest OH shops for alternators, came to an FAA Safety meeting and told the attendees that 8 out of 10 alternators returned to them as cores for OH worked when tested before disassembly. He stated that A&amp;P mechanics in the field were NOT doing their job properly, and that better troubleshooting techniques were needed, rather than replacing so many functional alternators.<br /> <br /> If you have a Volt-Ohm meter, you can save lots of time and money. Inexpensive voltmeters are widely available from such vendors as [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92020 Harbor Freight] and [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2999093 Radio Shack], often for as little as $10.<br /> <br /> To help you know what wire goes where, the maintenance manual has detailed schematics. Gary Vogt has re-drawn the [http://www.aucountry.com/ACA_Folder/Technical/Wire_Scan_76-77.jpg 76-77] and the [http://www.aucountry.com/ACA_Folder/Technical/Wire_Scan_78-79.jpg 78-79] Tiger/Cheetah schematics in a little less technical detail.<br /> <br /> All the troubleshooting described below is done with the engine OFF and the keys in your pocket.<br /> <br /> Open the cowl and locate the voltage regulator. On Grumman American singles its on the passenger side just inboard of the motor mount attach point, directly above the battery. On AA-5x you'll see a connector on the bottom with several wires. Look closely and you'll see that they are marked with letters on the regulator. On AA-1x there are only 2 wires and they are crimped to the airframe wiring harness without any quick disconnects.<br /> <br /> Visually check all of the wires and their crimped fittings. Pull gently on the crimped fittings, none of them should be loose. After 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Look for breaks in the shielding pigtails.<br /> <br /> Turn on the Master switch.<br /> <br /> === AA-5x series 12V ===<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;S&quot; terminal on the AA-5x regulator. Using your VOM, measure the voltage between the S terminal on the regulator and a good ground such as the battery's negative terminal. The VOM should read close to 12.6 volts on a fully charged battery. In this example, however, your battery is not fully charged after the in-flight failure of the charging system, so a measurement equal to 10 volts or greater is acceptable. If an acceptable voltage is present, then your Master Switch, Master Relay, Alt Field Circuit Breaker and the associated wiring are all working well enough to charge the battery from the alternator. Continue to the next step.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;F&quot; terminal and measure the voltage just as you did at the &quot;S&quot; terminal. As before, if the measured voltage is within a couple of volts of the nominal battery voltage, then the regulator is correctly trying to &quot;excite&quot; the alternator field so that the alternator can produce an output. Continue to the next step.<br /> <br /> Reset the VOM to measure resistance instead of voltage. Remove the &quot;F&quot; wire from the regulator and measure between the wire and ground. You should measure less than 10 ohms of resistance, and usually about 5 ohms. If you have significantly higher resistance (say 20 ohms or more) then there are problems with the alternator field or brushes, or possibly the wiring going to the alternator is in bad condition. A reading of less than 5 ohms, would indicate a short in the Field wire or inside the alternator. Otherwise, since you have the appropriate resistance between the &quot;F&quot; wire and ground, you are through checking the easy stuff, and are ready to pull the nose bowl.<br /> <br /> === AA-1x series ===<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;I&quot; terminal wire on the AA-1x regulator. Using your VOM, measure the voltage between the I wire on the regulator and a good ground such as the battery's negative terminal. The VOM should read close to 12.6 volts on a fully charged battery. In this example, however, your battery is not fully charged after the in-flight failure of the charging system, so a measurement equal to 10 volts or greater is acceptable. If an acceptable voltage is present, then your Master Switch, Master Relay, Alt Field Circuit Breaker and the associated wiring are all working well enough to charge the battery from the alternator. Continue to the next step.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;F&quot; wire and measure the voltage just as you did at the &quot;I&quot; wire. As before, if the measured voltage is within a couple of volts of the nominal battery voltage, then the regulator is correctly trying to &quot;excite&quot; the alternator field so that the alternator can produce an output. Continue to the next step.<br /> <br /> Reset the VOM to measure resistance instead of voltage. Disconnect the &quot;F&quot; wire from the regulator and measure between the wire and ground. You should measure less than 10 ohms of resistance, and usually about 5 ohms. If you have significantly higher resistance (say 20 ohms or more) then there are problems with the alternator field or brushes, or possibly the wiring going to the alternator is in bad condition. A reading of less than 5 ohms, would indicate a short in the Field wire or inside the alternator. Otherwise, since you have the appropriate resistance between the &quot;F&quot; wire and ground, you are through checking the easy stuff, and are ready to pull the nose bowl.<br /> <br /> === Turn OFF the Master at this time === <br /> <br /> We are through with the powered portion of the testing, so turn off the Master switch.<br /> <br /> Right about now you are wishing that you had installed the split nose bowl STC, because without it you have to remove the propeller to gain access to the alternator.<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Up to this point, we were just CHECKING electrical measurements without any actual disassembly of the plane. If you do not have the split nose bowl STC, then this is the point at which you will require A&amp;P supervision to complete the testing, removal and replacement of the alternator, prop, mounting bracket, etc. [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgFAR.nsf/0/AC9BED30F1D032B9852566AB006BC89C?OpenDocument FAR 43 Appendix A paragraph (c)(19)] permits the owner/pilot to remove and install cowlings without A&amp;P supervision, if the prop does not have to be removed, after demonstrating the ability to do it correctly.<br /> <br /> On all 2 place and on Travelers before 75, you can check the wiring by removing the screws on the right-hand lower cowling and letting the cowl side tip out from the firewall and nose bowl just enough to enable you to reach under the front cylinder and touch the wires on the back of the alternator. On 75 Travelers with the &quot;Cheetah nose&quot; and on all Cheetahs and Tigers, you have to remove the nose bowl to continue troubleshooting. That's OK, because you have already narrowed the source of the problem to that area anyway.<br /> <br /> With the nose bowl off, or at least the lower nose off if you have the split nose, now remove the alternator belt from the pulley. Our testing so far has not ruled out a worn, loose, or missing alternator belt, so make certain that the belt is in good condition and properly tensioned. <br /> <br /> The required amount of tension on this belt is often underestimated. The amount of power required to turn the alternator increases as the SQUARE of its output (charging) current! Lycoming's service information was updated a couple years back, and they now suggest setting belt tension by checking to see if the belt will slip before reaching a specified torque. You can check this by putting a socket on the alternator drive pulley nut and setting a torque wrench to 540 in-lb (45 ft-lb), and then holding the prop and trying to turn the alternator (CCW when viewing it from the front) with the torque wrench. The wrench should indicate 540 in-lb BEFORE the pulley slips. The older method mentioned in the Maintenance Manual, no longer favored by Lycoming, was to press in the center of the belt span between the pulleys and measure the deflection. New belts were to have less deflection than those that were worn. Refer to the maintenance manual if you don't have a torque wrench handy.<br /> <br /> If the belt itself is in good condition and is tensioned correctly, the next step is to remove the alternator for inspection. First release the tension on the belt. To do this, cut the safety wire on the bolt holding the alternator to the bracket, then loosen the bolt enough so that you are able to push the alternator up, thus relieving the belt tension.<br /> <br /> In the next step, you remove the alternator, which is quite heavy. If you have a portable service table or stand, now would be a good time to position it under the alternator. Now remove the big bolt at the bottom of the alternator (the one that holds it to the engine mounting bracket). While supporting the alternator so the wiring is not stressed, remove the bolt that was safety wired. The alternator should slide off the engine mounting bracket and be attached only by the wiring on the back. <br /> <br /> Carefully turn the alternator around, and lift the rubber boot that hides the connection of the big wire to the back of the alternator. This is a VERY common failure point on the aging fleet. The wire breaks off the ring lug that is bolted down, and the alternator output is prevented from flowing back to the battery by the broken connection. Look also at the small wire that is bolted to the same connection. This is the &quot;A&quot; or sense wire which tells the Voltage Regulator what the alternator is doing. The sense wire is also a common failure point, though not as often as the larger output wire. Look at the other small wire which attaches to a different post. This is the &quot;F&quot; or field wire. If the resistance checks were normal earlier, then this wire should be fine; nevertheless, after 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Inspect the wires for cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Make sure the shield grounds at both ends of the F and A wires are in good condition and still connected, and check the sheilding pigtails behind the alternator, they can rub on the baffling and get worn through.<br /> <br /> If there are no obvious failures in the wiring, you need to mark them and remove them so that the alternator can be tested at a shop. Pep-Boys and AutoZone will check your alternator for free. If you have an AA-5x series, then tell them its from a 71 Ford Pickup with AC. That is the actual original application for the Ford DOFF-10300J alternator on your Traveler/Cheetah/Tiger. AA-1x use a Prestolite brand alternator, and they should have no trouble figuring out the connections.<br /> <br /> After the alternator is spun up and bench tested, all but the rarest and intermittent failures will have been diagnosed, and you will be repairing JUST the wiring, or replacing the alternator or the voltage regulator, and NOT spending money on needless repairs.<br /> <br /> Prior to installing the alternator, carefully inspect the U shaped mounting bracket for cracks. They are prone to crack across the middle of the U, often into one of the bolt holes. Replacement brackets are available from any Lycoming distributor or from FletchAir.<br /> <br /> == Replacement Parts ==<br /> <br /> === Alternator and Regulator ===<br /> If the alternator or regulator have failed, you may want to consider a modern replacement than have the old stuff overhauled. Honestly, for about the same price as an overhaul, you can have a new alternator. [http://www.plane-power.com/products.htm Plane Power] makes a PMA'd alternator that is about 1 lb lighter, and they claim that it makes power at lower RPM. They also make a PMA'd modern solid state voltage regular. Zeftronics is also a popular solid state regulator replacement. If either the alternator or regulator has failed, have the other tested. In some cases, a failure in one of these causes problems in the other.<br /> <br /> === Plane Power Voltage Regulator Installation ===<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:'''[[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:PP-VR.jpg|thumb|200px]]<br /> <br /> [[User:Az_gila|Gil Alexander says:]] &quot;This is almost a drop in installation - the second difficulty wrench is for the awkward access to the nuts on the aft side of the firewall. It is a change of an airframe component with a PMA part, so a log book entry and sign-off by an A&amp;P is required.<br /> <br /> &quot;The Plane Power generic installation [http://www.plane-power.com/images/12%20-%201001.pdf instructions] overlook the fact that the Grumman firewall may not be flat in the area under the regulator. This is not a big problem, but it does require the use of a few washers under each mounting bolt to act as spacers. Longer mounting bolts are also needed, and I switched to AN4 bolts for this installation. The firewall is scraped down to bare metal at the mounting bolts, and star type lock washers are used to ensure a good ground connection.<br /> The electrical leads just have their old blade type connectors cut off and ring terminals crimped on. As shown in the instructions, one lead is not used in our Grumman installations. As with all of the crimp connections on your plane, make sure that high quality [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/insulterms.php terminals] are used (AMP PIDG is one good example), this is definitely one area to stay away from the cheap parts from the auto store.<br /> <br /> &quot;This new solid-state regulator gives two major benefits over the old one - a built-in, reliable over-voltage protection circuit, and the ability to add an 'Alternator Failed' warning light on the early Grummans. This is not yet connected, but is simply a wire from the negative side of the indicator to the 'Lamp' terminal, and a jumper from the &quot;Enable&quot; terminal to the 'Aux' terminal.&quot;<br /> <br /> === Plane Plastics Battery Box ===<br /> Original style replacement battery boxes are no longer available. [http://www.fletchair.com Fletchair] sells the [http://www.planeplastics.com/ Plane Plastics] PMA replacement part but several have had questions on how to attach the drain hose to the larger nub on the bottom of that box. You should avoid using metal fittings to attach the hose since battery acid doesn't react well with metals and can corrode and clog the tube.<br /> <br /> ==== Bob Steward's Approach ====<br /> [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]] came up with the following method for attaching the hose to the bottom of the box (presented here with his permission).<br /> # Drill a hole in the bottom of the nub sufficient for the drain hose (available from Lowes, Home Depot, Aquarium store) to fit loosely. <br /> # Dip the end of the hose in ABS Cement (blue can @ Lowes in the plumbing department) a couple times to coat it well. <br /> # Paint the ID of the nub with the same cement and let the MEK solvent soften the box. <br /> # Dip tube again and insert in box (from the bottom up) so the tube is almost even with or a little below the bottom of the box.<br /> # Paint more cement around it, such that the nub is filled with the ABS cement so that acid won't pool around the plastic tube and create a standpipe.<br /> # Secure the drain hose such that the box can be left sitting upright for several hours (overnight if the temps are low) as the solvent flashes off. <br /> When the cement has hardened, the pipe will be glued in place, the excess space from the pipe to the nub will be filled with the same material (ABS plastic) that the box was formed from, and a little drill/countersink work will open the tube and smooth the transition from the bottom of the box into the drain.<br /> <br /> ==== Mike Boyd's Adaptation of Bob's Method ====<br /> Given how bad the vinyl tube on my original battery box looked, I wanted the ability to easily replace it on the new box. I was able to find a poly barbed nipple that was small enough to fit in the nub at my local Ace Hardware store (my local Home Depot and Lowes did not stock them). So, here is another option for those wondering how to setup the replacement battery box. I do not know if the hose on my Cheetah is the typical size so adjust the sizes as needed to fit your situation.<br /> <br /> [[Image:battbox_parts.jpg|thumb|200px]]<br /> [[Image:battbox_glue.jpg|thumb|200px]]<br /> [[Image:battbox_finished.jpg|thumb|200px]]<br /> <br /> What you'll need:<br /> * Plane Plastics PMA'd battery box.<br /> * 1 foot of 3/8&quot; id (1/2&quot; od) vinyl drain tube.<br /> * 3/8&quot; poly or nylon barbed fitting with 1/8&quot; NPT (pipe thread) end.<br /> * ABS plastic cement (not PVC or others, must be a combination of MEK and ABS resin).<br /> * Drill bit sized to allow fitting to be press-fit into box OR 11/32 drill bit and 1/8 NPT tap.<br /> * Hose clamp<br /> <br /> The procedure is similar to Bob's approach, but instead of gluing the hose into the nub, you glue the fitting into the nub. For those that like step-by-step and pictures, here's the process:<br /> <br /> # Drill hole in bottom of the nub.<br /> # Thread the hole with the tap, should give about 2~3 threads. (optional)<br /> # Screw or press (depending on method chosen) the fitting into the hole in the nub on the box. The fitting should now stay attached to the box on it's own.<br /> # Set the box above some newspaper so it stands up and the drain points down (I found a couple pieces of 2x4 worked well).<br /> # Take the brush in the cap of the ABS glue bottle, let it stop dripping, then place it into the nub on the inside of the box so it applies a coat of glue on the bottom of the nub.<br /> # Let the glue dry for a few minutes and then remove any of the plastic that dripped down into the nipple. Should be able to easily pull the dried plastic out from the bottom. Also remove any ridges that may prevent drainage into the nub.<br /> # Repeat the last two steps until it builds up enough plastic so any water (or acid) will not pool up in the nub but will flow down thru the fitting. The glue should do this naturally once you have applied enough.<br /> # Push one end of the tubing over the fitting and secure with the clamp.<br /> # Place the battery box in the plane and thread the tube thru the drain hole in the cowl.<br /> # Cut the tube as needed so the tube extends past the cowl like the previous one (should be around a couple inches).<br /> <br /> You'll need to cut out the slots for the battery cables (I found a Dremmel tool worked OK for this) since the box comes basically unprepared. That's it. You should now have a battery box that will function as intended.<br /> <br /> == Why you probably need new parts ==<br /> <br /> This picture shows the internal workings of the original Voltage Regulators that were shipped with the 70's Grummans. Lots of mechanical parts with calibrated spring tensions and several electrical contacts to get worn and/or corroded.<br /> If you have one of these, you are awaiting a failure (according to Les Staples at AYA2008) - It's definitely time to upgrade to a newer technology all solid-state regulator.<br /> <br /> [[Image:old-VR.jpg|thumb|200px|left]]<br /> <br /> ----<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> == Alternator Brackets ==<br /> <br /> The alternator bracket is a weak part on our Grummans and should be checked every time it is visible with the nose bowl off. This bracket was still in place, but was just held on by the washer under the rear bolt.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Alt-bracket-broken_Small.JPG|thumb|200px]]<br /> <br /> Note that a current new Lycoming part has a different number - 07A21443 - and is much thicker - 1/4 inch instead of 3/16 inch.<br /> <br /> [[Image:alt-brackets_Small.JPG|thumb|200px]]</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Oil_Temp_Gauge_and_Sender&diff=3430 2010-01-21T15:24:19Z

<p>WikiSysop: Reverted edits by WendyDawson (Talk) to last revision by Bob Steward</p> <hr /> <div>Placeholder for new page on Oil Temp Gauge and Sender troubleshooting</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Maintenance:_General&diff=3402 2009-10-15T14:19:56Z

<p>WikiSysop: /* Required Information and Documentation */</p> <hr /> <div>==Required Information and Documentation==<br /> <br /> To do any maintenance, the [http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&amp;sid=687122739e072b94c661c119b25602d0&amp;rgn=div8&amp;view=text&amp;node=14:1.0.1.3.20.0.363.10&amp;idno=14 FARs require] that you have the manufacturer's current maintenance instructions. These would include the airframe maintenance manual, the illustrated parts catalog, and other service publications such as service bulletins, service letters, etc. However the airframe manufacturer didn't make all the parts that are on the plane. The engine manufacturer has their own set of manuals, as do many accessory manufacturers. Having the manual for the magneto or the brakes and wheels is just as important when working on those accessories as is having the engine or airframe manuals.<br /> <br /> That is a lot of manuals to locate, but fortunately, some suppliers are now offering their manuals on CD or even on the Internet. One such forward thinking company is [http://www.parker.com Parker-Hannifin], the makers of Cleveland Wheels and Brakes. They offer manuals in print, on CD, and on the web for their [[Media:AWBPC0001.pdf|Parts Catalog]] (16MB PDF) and their [[Media:AWBCMM0001.pdf|Maintenance Manual]] (16MB PDF).<br /> <br /> Unfortunately, Lycoming only has a small selection of their documents on-line. They can be viewed [http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=support/publications/maintenance.html here].<br /> <br /> ==Logbooks and Recording==<br /> The minimum requirements for logging work done on an aircraft or accessory is detailed in [http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&amp;sid=687122739e072b94c661c119b25602d0&amp;rgn=div8&amp;view=text&amp;node=14:1.0.1.3.20.0.363.6&amp;idno=14 FAR 43.9]. A log entry must include a brief description of the work performed, the date the work was completed, the name of the person that performed the work -- if different than the one making the log entry, the name, certificate number and type of the person making the entry and of course the signature, which the FAA says constitutes the approval for return to service.<br /> <br /> The description of the work &quot;should be in sufficient detail to permit a person unfamiliar with the work to understand what was done, and the methods and procedures used in doing it&quot;. A reference to standard methods, procedures and technical data may be made to keep from making each record too long if extensive work is performed.<br /> <br /> The FAA has a detailed Advisory Circular on maintaining records - [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAdvisoryCircular.nsf/0/cfb1221d9b8038b9862569c40075c77f/$FILE/AC43-9C.pdf AC 43-9C]. <br /> <br /> Although we all think in terms of those little books that say &quot;Aircraft Log Book&quot; on the cover, the FAA does not actually require that we keep the records of the maintenance in a &quot;log book&quot;. They can be a stack of loose sheets in a file folder, or even an electronic record -- like many of the airlines and the military use to track their maintenance. Caution is needed here though, per AC 43-9C, electronics records still have to meet the FAR requirements, including signatures, so a hard copy with a signature still seems to be needed.<br /> <br /> With light planes its just easier to use the traditional log book, so that is how most owners of light planes manage their records. For our Grummans, time in service and details of the propeller, engine and airframe all need to be logged, while they could be in one logbook (again, per the AC 43-9C), as a practical matter, it's easier to have three separate log books.<br /> <br /> <br /> The FAA wants a log book for each &quot;Class 1 Appliance&quot;. Class 1 Appliances are those components that have a Type Certificate, such as the Airframe, the Engine, and the Prop(s) or rotor system. In the past it was common to include the prop in the Airframe logs, but more recent thinking in Washington suggests we have a separate prop log. So if someone hasn't already purchased a prop log and begun tracking the prop separately, now would be a good time to obtain one and add it to your maintenance records at the next inspection.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:AWBPC0001.pdf&diff=3401 2009-10-15T14:08:38Z

<p>WikiSysop: Parker Aircraft Wheel &amp; Brake Product Catalog</p> <hr /> <div>Parker Aircraft Wheel &amp; Brake Product Catalog</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:AWBCMM0001.pdf&diff=3400 2009-10-15T14:07:54Z

<p>WikiSysop: Parker Aircraft Wheel &amp; Brake Maintenance Manual</p> <hr /> <div>Parker Aircraft Wheel &amp; Brake Maintenance Manual</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Rusty-spindle.jpg&diff=3323 2009-05-28T18:53:47Z

<p>WikiSysop: Revised Attribution</p> <hr /> <div>Photo: [http://mira.sbw.org/photos/20090423/SN850847/ Steve Williams]</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Engine_Baffles&diff=3276 2009-04-12T12:34:00Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>The engine baffles are critical to proper operation of the engine. They provide the sides for the box that holds the cooling air, and they also direct the air around the cylinder fins to minimize hot spots.<br /> <br /> Its very common to see the metal portion of the baffles cracked and fretted from vibration, and to see the rubber seals hardened from heat and age, missing sections and replaced with the wrong types of material. The orange silicone rubber is the most popular replacement material, and its not really suitable for the job.<br /> <br /> The rubber baffle seal needs to be thin and flexible, and it should have some fiber reinforcement to prevent tearing. The orange silicone rubber is too thick (1/8&quot;), has no reinforcement, and tears easily.<br /> <br /> When installing a lightweight starter such as the Sky-Tec, the front metal baffles on the 75 Traveler and all Cheetahs and Tigers must be trimmed to clear the different contour of the starter motor and solenoid.<br /> <br /> Here are some examples of the trimming:<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center-trim.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:LH-Skytec.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> This is a seal I added to decrease the air leakage around the starter.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Skytec-seal.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [Gil Alexander] The seal is a little harder to form on the outboard side of the starter due to the starter leads. One example of sealing is here. The baffle material is extended as much as possible over the top of the starter to get into the gaps created above the starter.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Sky-tec-gaps.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Also check all of the baffle attach points. This AA5B broken bracket was hard to see, but was obviously not doing it's job. It is attached to the baffles by the oil cooler and held by the upper left engine mount bolt. A previous repair was less than effective. New brackets are available at Fletchair.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Broken-baffle-bracket.JPG]]<br /> <br /> ==Cheetah Baffles - Part of my Hunt for High Oil Temperatures==<br /> I have a Cheetah that suffered from higher oil temperatures than I'm comfortable with (CHT's look OK) during the warmest summer months. Everything has been done to this engine to make it run warm (High Compression mod, LASAR system) so this is not a big surprise. But hearing that people fly these machines in Arizona in the summer and the fact that I'm a bit of a perfectionist...I wanted to see if there is anything I could do to lower the temps.<br /> <br /> In the course of chasing down the issue, (besides checking the oil cooler, vernatherm valve, and other system components) the old and ratty baffle seals were replaced under the supervision of one of the most Grumman knowledgeable shops around. After the seals were replaced, the following summer my temperatures were actually worse than the previous year. And thus began my education in the proper fit of baffle seals...<br /> <br /> ===Finding Problems===<br /> I started by simply taking a flashlight and looking into the cooling air intakes in the nose bowl. I found several places where the seals did not sit flush against the cowl. In one location the seal bowed enough to create a quarter sized hole. This occurred because in the replacement of the seals, the multiple separate pieces of seal material were replaced with a few single longer strips of seal material that would buckle when pressed against the cowl where they were supposed to seal. Where the seals along the back and sides overlapped, they were attached together in such a way as to pull them away from the cowl. So, I removed these attachments and determined where to cut slits in the seal material so it would sit flush.<br /> <br /> I then started looking around the nose bowl seals and found a number of locations where the seal fit was as poor as the seals against the cowl doors. I had to pull the cowl and hold the nose bowl in position as best I could (by holding it relative to the spinner/prop just as it looked when the cowl was attached) and inspect the seal fit. I used a marker to mark the locations where the seal did not fit well and made a number of additional slits in the ribbons of seal material. Often these slits were made where the contours of the cowl or nose bowl change. The seal near the landing light needed to be trimmed to fit the contour of the landing light recess in the nose bowl. There was also a location near the alternator where a longer strip of seal material was needed to close a hole caused by the additional distance between the baffle and the nose bowl in that area.<br /> <br /> After 20 or more new slits in the baffle seal material and a new piece near the alternator, I put things back together and used a combination of drop lights and flashlights to check how well the seals were seating. Everything looked good, so I reassembled the cowl, checked the baffles one more time, and waited for the warm summer days to return for the tests.<br /> <br /> ===Test Flight===<br /> Well, summer returned and I went on a test flight. The temps were lower...but only back to the point they were prior to replacing the seals. So, I continued my search. Off came the cowl and nose bowl and I found the seal around the starter (a location Bob mentioned above) was not that tight in spots and completely missing along the top of the starter (between the starter and the engine case) in what would equate to about a 1&quot; x 3&quot; hole. So, I constructed and installed a seal to close the hole. I also replaced the seal around the pipe that provides air to the muffler shroud as I determined the seal material there was the original and in bad shape. I then put everything back together and and performed a couple test flights. Things were looking better, but when the high temps of July and August hit, the oil temps wee still a bit high.<br /> <br /> ===Gathering Data===<br /> [[Image:Manometer.JPG|thumb|100px|right|Manometer]]Stumped, I decided to try collecting some figures on the cooling. I constructed a simple water manometer to determine the pressure differential between the high pressure and low pressure side of the baffles. After some searching around the internet, I found that for effective cooling you need a pressure difference of at least 6&quot; of water. We ran the tubing ends of the manometer from the cockpit out the canopy and in thru the oil door with one tube on each side of the baffle in the cowl. In flight we were able to determine that in cruise around 120 mph IAS the pressure difference was right around 6&quot; of water. In a 100 mph IAS climb, the pressure dropped to around 5&quot;. So, the numbers indicated that I still had some issues as I was just barely coming into an acceptable cooling pressure range in cruise.<br /> <br /> ===The latest (and hopefully last) find===<br /> So, my A&amp;P (who had been overseeing my work all along) and I tried to find any other possible problems. After a bunch of snooping around with flashlights and inspection mirrors, my A&amp;P was able to find another hole hiding in the seals. This hole was located just above the airbox and was caused by the fact that the standard width of the seal material sold in rolls is not wide enough to close a gap in that area. So, I obtained a larger piece of seal material (around 4.5&quot; wide, if memory serves), off came the cowl and nose bowl again, and replaced the pieces that were too short.<br /> <br /> ===Pictures of the Results===<br /> Below are several pictures of my baffle seals after the changes. Most of the slits you see were added as part of my attempts to improve the fit/seal. Sorry, I didn't take any before pictures, maybe I'll remember next time.<br /> [[Image:UpperLeftSeals11u.JPG|thumb|200px|left]]<br /> [[Image:UpperRightSeals11u.JPG|thumb|200px|none]]<br /> [[Image:LowerSeals11u.JPG|thumb|200px|left]]<br /> [[Image:LowerRightSeals11u.JPG|thumb|200px|none]]<br /> <br /> ===Conclusion (sort of)===<br /> Of course, by the time we found and fixed this last issue, the hot summer temperatures had given way to cooler ones of fall. The oil temperatures have looked good since the last fix, but I guess I won't know for sure if the problem is resolved until summer returns again. I'll probably try the manometer again to see what it says...when my mechanic and I get a chance. I'll keep you posted. In the meantime, I hope this information helps if you have a Cheetah experiencing similar issues.<br /> <br /> One last note. I was supplied the silicone type baffle seal material by the shop where the seals were initially replaced. I've found that this material isn't necessarily the best for seals as it is rather thick and does not &quot;set&quot; (retain a curved form) so you have to wrestle with it and be careful of the fit anytime you need to close the cowl or install the nose bowl.<br /> <br /> ==Cooling Outlet Ducts in Lower Cowl==<br /> [[Image:Tiger-sagging-outlet-duct.jpg|thumb|200px|left]]<br /> After the air has passed over the cylinders, it still needs to leave the cowl area. The pre-78 fibreglas ducts are somewhat heat sensitive, and will deform over time, reducing the area of the air outlet, as seen in this photo from Gil Alexander.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Talk:Steve_White_Fuel_Tank_Repair&diff=3250 2009-04-05T16:37:57Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>sbw writes: I note that no pages on Bondline point to this article. Perhaps it should be added to this section:<br /> <br /> http://www.bondline.org/wiki/Fuel_Tank_Leaks#Grumman_Owner.27s_Leak_Repair_Stories<br /> <br /> Also, we should probably upload the photos to Bondline, rather than deep-linking them from Photobucket. It's probably only a matter of time before Photobucket cuts us off.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Steve_White_Fuel_Tank_Repair&diff=3249 2009-04-05T16:33:41Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Image:plane.jpg|thumb|300 px|Steve White's Traveler]]<br /> <br /> [[User:Steve_White|Steve White]] contributed his story of the repair of leaking fuel tanks in his Traveler.<br /> <br /> On Jan 3, 2006, I bought this 1974, 2-owner, AA-5 with 1441TT and 80hrs SMOH with HC. In the next nine months my wife says that I tried to see how much money I could spend on the airplane. She was wrong, but not by much. We put on new alt, starter, vac pump, electric fuel pump, all new hoses, tires, all DMA mods, RR cap, all antennas buried, Mitchell gauges, most instruments re-built, new transponder, new Sens prop - balanced also, paint, new interior, lots more, AND the right tank re-sealed. I was not involved in the re-sealing of the tank. Under the watchful oversight of my A&amp;P - keeping everything legal, I replaced brakes, the Belleville washers, bearings, did new baffling, replaced the control bearings with the SS mod, re-rigged the control surfaces, replaced points and condenser/electronically timed the internal timing of the mags, re-installed the same, and on and on. I'm envious of [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]] and others who do this for a living. All this is to say, I really enjoy working on my plane. That is maybe I still do after twice into my fuel tank.<br /> <br /> My A&amp;P and I tackled it the first time, by the book. We did just as the two other fuel tank repair accounts: scraped forever and got everything super clean. This is the same tank that had been re-sealed just two years ago. None of the old material had been removed and the material we removed that was over the original sealer was the &quot;low adhesive&quot; material designated for usage on the access panels. There was a lot of gravel in this sealer. This sealing was done by a mechanic who no longer works at my IA's place. The mechanic took out the fuel sender unit. We worked together at night and then I worked alone for about a week at night and then he checked everything with flashlight and mirrors, we cleaned the tank and resealed with the 3207B (thick) sealer. Messy!! We checked the next night and saw places that seemed to need attention and resealed. I then checked the next night and even yet there was a place needing attention and resealed. He checked again and gave it his blessing. He let me re-install the fuel sender unit(new gasket, of course). I want to meet who ever designed those stupid grills that go on the outside of the bolts that hold the sender unit in. This job was never meant to be done. We filled the tank with five gallons and left overnight and no leak, five more gallons and still no leak. Then we filled it and left it overnight, and noticed a slight seeping. I just couldn't believe it! I wasn't ready to go back in. I flew it for three months. <br /> <br /> Armed with more information from [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob S.]], Garner Rice, and Jeff Simon, the re-seal began. New equipment was used. A Milwaukee remote viewer, a web-cam/laptop, a dental spatula, and a hair drier greatly helped this process. They are pictured below:<br /> <br /> [[Image:02-28-09_1657.jpg]]<br /> [[Image:03-01-09_1445.jpg]]<br /> [[Image:02-28-09_1610.jpg]]<br /> <br /> First, the access panels just wouldn't budge. I used the small pointed instrument to remove the external adhesive but that didn't seem to help.<br /> <br /> [[Image:02-28-09_1623.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Then I tried the dental spatula to no avail. I was afraid I'd tear up my panel. Drove home and got a hair drier. I gently warmed the entire access panel to where it was warm but not hot and kept it warm for about five minutes. Then, I was able to ease the dental spatula under the panel. It works best at the beginning of the curvature of the panel. THIS IS A GOOD TECHNIQUE, IMO. <br /> <br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/03-01-09_1425.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/02-28-09_1649.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/02-28-09_1650.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/02-28-09_1609.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/02-28-09_1611.jpg[/IMG]<br /> <br /> This was repeated three times, all panels off. The fuel sender unit was left in this time.<br /> <br /> Now, I very carefully checked all bond seams by tapping with a half-dollar coin. I checked under and over the wing. This takes time, or at least I took a lot of time. My plane has purple sealer. No bond seam failure seemed to be present. <br /> <br /> The drop light:<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-80944.jpg[/IMG]<br /> <br /> Now armed with the web-cam and a 13-watt energy saver bulb (produces very little heat) in a drop light, the inspection began. Was my A&amp;P blind that night?! Was I?! No wonder it leaked. It all looked so good with the flashlight and mirror and so terrible with the drop light and web-cam and to a lesser degree of detail, the Milwaukee remote viewer. Look at these pictures of our &quot;terrible&quot; job.<br /> <br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-77784.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-78139.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-78354.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-04-78187.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-04-78417.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-04-78469.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-04-78484.jpg[/IMG]<br /> <br /> I had re-ordered type &quot;B&quot; 3207 and some more low adhesive sealer for the access panels. Also, I ordered some 3207 &quot;A&quot; , the low viscosity sealer like the factory used. I wish I had had it the first time. It will go into the other tank when that time comes. <br /> I used much smaller syringes(dental impression syringes) to place the &quot;A&quot; viscosity sealer. I love this stuff in comparison to the type &quot;B&quot; sealer. It all stinks and stains. It is SO messy! I also used some type &quot;B&quot; sealer in a few areas and then coated with the type&quot;A&quot;. <br /> Next time : type &quot;A&quot; first, then &quot;B&quot; then &quot;A&quot;. This will all be with inspections in-between each application. <br /> Here's what it looked like after all this:<br /> <br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-78361.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-78347.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-78296.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-80799.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-80874.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-80903.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-04-78177.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-04-78248.jpg[/IMG]<br /> <br /> As you can see, the web-cam shows a much different quality of sealing. We just couldn't see this with the mirrors/flashlights. Then, I let it cure for 1 day and re-placed the access plates and let it cure for 3 more days. No leaks. When the other tank starts to leak, I will tackle this again without dread. My A&amp;P said that I don't have enough money to pay him to do this the way it was done. Actually, he would do it and do it well; but I'd hate to think what the cost would be. He said, he'd prefer us to do it again just like &quot;we&quot; did this time: me work, he check and approve and me work some more. <br /> Here are a few finishing up photos:<br /> <br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-04-81850.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-04-84213.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-04-85835.jpg[/IMG]<br /> <br /> Here are some misc pictures:<br /> Outside of fuel sender unit: the bolts that hold it on:<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-78953.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-78605.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-78576.jpg[/IMG]<br /> <br /> This fuel sender unit - inside the tank:<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-78390.jpg[/IMG]<br /> <br /> The fuel scrubber line Bob S. can reach thru the fuel filler:<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-04-78306.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-78118.jpg[/IMG]<br /> <br /> The fuel screens:<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-79615.jpg[/IMG]<br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/2009-04-01-80799.jpg[/IMG]<br /> <br /> Though this is a picture taken a couple of years ago and before the &quot;N&quot;# change and (I'm happy to say) a few extra pounds ago, this picture depicts how a pilot feels and a plane looks after the leak is fixed. <br /> [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v503/sewdds/untitled4.jpg[/IMG]<br /> <br /> '''Summary of things I learned that haven't been mentioned previously:'''<br /> <br /> * Hair drier helps immensely with removing access panels.<br /> * A web-cam/laptop is all the remote viewing I need.<br /> * Type &quot;A&quot; is easier for me to use 1st and third while type &quot;B&quot; would be used in-between.There may be good reasons to not do this, and maybe someone more knowledgeable will correct this assumption of mine.<br /> * You can't check too much.<br /> * Check to see if any de-bonding has occurred before any sealing begins: you may need both SK-125A procedures and sealing.<br /> * A 13-watt energy saving bulb provides plenty of light and very low heat (to help protect the bonding), syringes are helpful for placement of both &quot;A&quot; and &quot;B&quot; viscosities. A paint brush helps with the &quot;A.&quot;<br /> * Paint thinner helps clean off the low adhesive flash.<br /> * I actually kind of enjoyed this, but not enough to do your plane.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Talk:Steve_White_Fuel_Tank_Repair&diff=3211 2009-03-17T17:22:51Z

<p>WikiSysop: Undo revision 3207 by Steve White (Talk)</p> <hr /> <div>I plan to have the full discussion/pictures posted during the 3rd week-end of March, 2009.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=3196 2009-03-07T21:44:34Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>=Bondline=<br /> __NOTOC__<br /> [[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br /> <br /> Bondline is a place for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman Grumman] owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br /> <br /> [http://twitter.com/Bondline Follow Bondline] on [[Image:Twitterlogo.png|63x15px|text-bottom|Twitter]].<br /> <br /> == Important Grumman Resources ==<br /> <br /> * [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.ayaforum.org/ AYA Forum].<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list. Note that many topics have been covered previously on the Grumman-Gang and can be found in the Grumman-Gang archives, available to subscribers.<br /> * [http://www.fletchair.com FletchAir], the first source for PMA Grumman parts.<br /> * [http://p.webring.com/hub?ring=grumman;sid=33;id=33;hub The Grumman Enthusiast's WebRing].<br /> <br /> == Technical Information ==<br /> <br /> * [[General]]<br /> * [[Maintenance]]<br /> * [[Operations]]<br /> * [[337s]]<br /> <br /> == Tips from Bondline Contributors ==<br /> <br /> * [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=3195 2009-03-07T21:38:52Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>=Bondline=<br /> [[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br /> <br /> Bondline is a place for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman Grumman] owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br /> <br /> [http://twitter.com/Bondline Follow Bondline] on [[Image:Twitterlogo.png|63x15px|text-bottom|Twitter]].<br /> <br /> == Important Grumman Resources ==<br /> <br /> * [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.ayaforum.org/ AYA Forum].<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list. Note that many topics have been covered previously on the Grumman-Gang and can be found in the Grumman-Gang archives, available to subscribers.<br /> * [http://www.fletchair.com FletchAir], the first source for PMA Grumman parts.<br /> * [http://p.webring.com/hub?ring=grumman;sid=33;id=33;hub The Grumman Enthusiast's WebRing].<br /> <br /> == Technical Information ==<br /> <br /> * [[General]]<br /> * [[Maintenance]]<br /> * [[Operations]]<br /> * [[337s]]<br /> <br /> == Tips from Bondline Contributors ==<br /> <br /> * [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=MediaWiki:Monobook.css&diff=3194 2009-03-07T21:37:34Z

<p>WikiSysop: New page: /* CSS placed here will affect users of the Monobook skin */ body.page-Main_Page h1.firstHeading { display:none; }</p> <hr /> <div>/* CSS placed here will affect users of the Monobook skin */<br /> body.page-Main_Page h1.firstHeading { display:none; }</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=3173 2009-02-16T20:17:45Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br /> <br /> Bondline is a place for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman Grumman] owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br /> <br /> [http://twitter.com/Bondline Follow Bondline] on [[Image:Twitterlogo.png|63x15px|text-bottom|Twitter]].<br /> <br /> == Important Grumman Resources ==<br /> <br /> * [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.ayaforum.org/ AYA Forum].<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list. Note that many topics have been covered previously on the Grumman-Gang and can be found in the Grumman-Gang archives, available to subscribers.<br /> * [http://www.fletchair.com FletchAir], the first source for PMA Grumman parts.<br /> * [http://p.webring.com/hub?ring=grumman;sid=33;id=33;hub The Grumman Enthusiast's WebRing].<br /> <br /> == Technical Information ==<br /> <br /> * [[General]]<br /> * [[Maintenance]]<br /> * [[Operations]]<br /> * [[337s]]<br /> <br /> == Tips from Bondline Contributors ==<br /> <br /> * [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Twitterlogo.png&diff=3172 2009-02-16T19:22:02Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>[http://twitter.com/Bondline Follow Bondline on Twitter]</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=3171 2009-02-16T19:21:43Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br /> <br /> Bondline is a place for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman Grumman] owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br /> <br /> [http://twitter.com/Bondline Follow Bondline] on [[Image:Twitterlogo.png|text-bottom|Twitter]].<br /> <br /> == Important Grumman Resources ==<br /> <br /> * [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.ayaforum.org/ AYA Forum].<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list. Note that many topics have been covered previously on the Grumman-Gang and can be found in the Grumman-Gang archives, available to subscribers.<br /> * [http://www.fletchair.com FletchAir], the first source for PMA Grumman parts.<br /> * [http://p.webring.com/hub?ring=grumman;sid=33;id=33;hub The Grumman Enthusiast's WebRing].<br /> <br /> == Technical Information ==<br /> <br /> * [[General]]<br /> * [[Maintenance]]<br /> * [[Operations]]<br /> * [[337s]]<br /> <br /> == Tips from Bondline Contributors ==<br /> <br /> * [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Twitterlogo.png&diff=3170 2009-02-16T18:58:36Z

<p>WikiSysop: Twitter Logo</p> <hr /> <div>Twitter Logo</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Tips_from_Bondline_Contributors&diff=3137 2009-02-12T20:28:45Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>* [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Tips&diff=3136 2009-02-12T20:28:27Z

<p>WikiSysop: Tips moved to Tips from Bondline Contributors</p> <hr /> <div>#REDIRECT [[Tips from Bondline Contributors]]</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Tips_from_Bondline_Contributors&diff=3135 2009-02-12T20:28:27Z

<p>WikiSysop: Tips moved to Tips from Bondline Contributors</p> <hr /> <div>== Tips from Bondline Contributors ==<br /> <br /> * [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Tips_from_Bondline_Contributors&diff=3134 2009-02-12T20:27:41Z

<p>WikiSysop: New page: == Tips from Bondline Contributors == * Fun Fly-In Locations * Grumman-Savvy Mechanics</p> <hr /> <div>== Tips from Bondline Contributors ==<br /> <br /> * [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Talk:Replace_stock_O235_engine_with_O320-E2G_AirModsNW_STC&diff=3133 2009-02-12T20:14:27Z

<p>WikiSysop: New page: Please give your name in the introductory paragraph. Readers need to know who &quot;I&quot; is.</p> <hr /> <div>Please give your name in the introductory paragraph. Readers need to know who &quot;I&quot; is.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Replace_stock_O235_engine_with_O320-E2G_AirModsNW_STC&diff=3132 2009-02-12T20:12:59Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>Bob Steward suggested I create a page here in an attempt to describe my process of performing the engine upgrade from the O235-C2C that our AA1x models came with to the more appropriate O320 engine. I started with a core that I purchased from Gil Alexander.<br /> [[Image:O320b.jpg|200px|thumb|left|O320 core ready to ship]]<br /> I'm told Gil did me very well in selling me this core. It's an O320-E2G, which is the stock engine for the Cheetah. This worked out best for me as I wanted to use the STC available from Ken Blackman AKA AirModsNW. There are three STCs available to choose from to perform this modification. If you are considering the upgrade gather as much info as possible on all three before making your decision. Each has its positive and negative sides. Each owner needs to weigh the pro and con of each for them-self. My decision was made on recommendations of others who had used Ken's STC and by my A&amp;P after describing the process involved and each of the STCs. Since my particular A&amp;P/IA had never performed an O320 conversion on a Grumman AA1x before (C&amp;P brand yes, just never an AA1x) I wanted to go with the one that had the most documentation provided with the STC. <br /> For the engine I chose new ECI CermiNil® Process cylinders &lt;http://www.eci.aero/pages/services_advantage.aspx&gt;. I picked Aero Engines of Winchester 540-678-1661 (ask for Tom) for the overhaul of the engine. This STC limits the HP to the stock 150HP pistons and since the crank did not pass the AD inspection, it's my understanding I would not have been allowed to use it in my engine with the 160HP pistons. I was told by several reliable source gurus on the GG that I'd never miss the 10HP. They were right; going from 108HP to 150HP has been such a dramatic increase in power it's like I'm flying and entirely new airplane. I've started uploading photos of the project as I put this article together. So keep an eye out for updates. <br /> <br /> '''Day 1: Removal of the old O235 engine.''' Removal was a fairly simple process. It is a ''REAL'' good idea to keep track of every nut bolt and screw as well as making ''GOOD'' documentations of what wire came from where. If not just be sure to label every wire indicating what terminal it goes to. A good digital camera helps here too showing routing locations etc. <br /> <br /> '''Day 2: Firewall prep &amp; engine mount repair.''' I ran into a snag with the lower right engine mount extrusion. Fortunately I was not in excess of the allowable limit on this and after a day of research and sweating was able to save a ton of $$$ and at least 3 days of work. <br /> <br /> &lt;center&gt;<br /> {| border=&quot;0&quot; style=&quot;background:transparent;&quot;<br /> |-<br /> |<br /> [[Image:EMR450.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Eng mount repair]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:EMR451.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Eng mount repair before painting firewall]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:EMR471.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bottom view of bushing]]<br /> |}<br /> &lt;/center&gt;<br /> &lt;center&gt;<br /> {| border=&quot;0&quot; style=&quot;background:transparent;&quot;<br /> |-<br /> |<br /> [[Image:EMR470.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Top of bushing]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:EMR472.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Eng mount repair]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:EMR469.jpg|200px|thumb|left|Bushing in place]]<br /> |}<br /> &lt;/center&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> A separate article should be written on this repair and a good procedure for inspection for this. I stripped the firewall down of dirt and paint. Since I've never been real great with a spray can I elected to have Jeff paint my firewall. Before and after photos of this will appear here shortly.<br /> <br /> &lt;center&gt;<br /> {| border=&quot;0&quot; style=&quot;background:transparent;&quot;<br /> |-<br /> |<br /> [[Image:Oldmnt428.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|O235 eng removed]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:Frwlstrpd433.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Firewall striped]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:Rdy4paint441 r1.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Ready to be primed]]<br /> |}<br /> &lt;/center&gt;<br /> &lt;center&gt;<br /> {| border=&quot;0&quot; style=&quot;background:transparent;&quot;<br /> |-<br /> |<br /> [[Image:Prmd465.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Firewall primed]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:Pntdfrwl467.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Fresh paint on the firewall]]<br /> |}<br /> &lt;/center&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Day 3: Hanging the engine (AKA how many washers &amp; where do those spacers go?).''' Not having a manual that has a visual for the dynafocal mount I was unsure of the placement of the spacers used with this type mount. Fortunately Shearer Aviation had the AA5x manual on file. Numerous phone calls later I did acquire the info I needed along with comparing to the AA5 drawings. The spacers are placed the same as for the AA5 and AA5A. Finding the drawing for an AA5 at the shop proved beneficial. Basically all four spacers go behind the mount. There are also washers that are used to shim the engine up/down or left/right. Every application is going to be different. If using new Lord mounts (which I'd highly recommend) make the spinner slightly (I used 1/4&quot;) high in relation to the nose bowl. The mounts will settle in and at that time the alignment will be correct. That is what I used and now (almost two years later) it has settle in just right. I cannot recall which Grumman Guru that one came from.<br /> <br /> &lt;center&gt;<br /> {| border=&quot;0&quot; style=&quot;background:transparent;&quot;<br /> |-<br /> |<br /> [[Image:Mntd486.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|New engine mounted showing four vane oil cooler on firewall as was mounted with the O235]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:Mntd489.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|O320 mounted, right side view. Don't forget to paint the nose strut when you paint the firewall]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:Spltnsbwl501.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|A split nosebowl is a no brainer if not allready done at this time. I don't think it was necessary to use all of the screws though]]<br /> |}<br /> &lt;/center&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> '''Begining of Day 3''' Somehow we missed painting the longer nose strut when we painted the firewall and baffling. Note the difference between the old (white) and the new (primed) nose strut. Here is how you get the extra prop clearance. It also can be gained by swapping out the nose fork depending on which one you have already. Also make sure your alternator brackets are in good shape. Needless to say mine were not. A call to Ken Blackman at AirMods NW had them shipped to me next day in short order. Ken is also the guru who gave me the info on how to make the engine mount repair.<br /> <br /> &lt;center&gt;<br /> {| border=&quot;0&quot; style=&quot;background:transparent;&quot;<br /> |-<br /> |<br /> [[Image:Nsstrt474.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|New and old nose strut]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:Nsstrt478.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Close comparison of the longer nose strut to the stock one]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:Altmnt475.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|worn out alt mount]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:Altmnt476.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Another view of alt mount]]<br /> |}<br /> &lt;/center&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Day 4: Baffling.'''<br /> Using the STC from AirModsNW proved the most beneficial here. When Cliff Hansen said he spent 40 hours I thought, no way (he wasn't kidding). Having engineering drawings as well as full scale templates for the baffles proved invaluable. I photo-copied the drawings to keep the originals in good condition (thanks for that idea Paul). Using the photo-copies of the templates I was able to create baffling using the aluminum from the RV6-O320 kit (great tip from Cliff) that fit my engine perfectly (well almost, I had to modify the forward baffles some after I thought I was done; see below). Fitting to the cowling took some hours. The rear and sides went together well. Keep in mind do not apply the flex baffle to the top until you have verified the height of the upper cowl.<br /> <br /> One of the guys helping me got the cart before the horse on this and we had to cut the baffles down after he spent quite a few hours applying the flex baffles. The two front baffles took more time than all of the other baffles combined. I'm still not pleased with how they turned out and plan on modifying or changing them out at some time in the future. My temps on 1&amp;3 cylinders are great but I'd like to get #2&amp;4 down about 50 degrees. It was suggested to check to make sure I don't have any flashing issues before tearing my baffles apart *again*.<br /> &lt;center&gt;<br /> {| border=&quot;0&quot; style=&quot;background:transparent;&quot;<br /> |-<br /> |<br /> [[Image:Bffl506.jpg‎|200px|thumb|left|Baffling showing 2&quot; scat opening for oil cooler]]<br /> ||<br /> [[Image:503.jpg‎‎|200px|thumb|left|The baffling took a long time. When Cliff told me fourty hours, I thought no way.... WAY]]<br /> |}<br /> &lt;/center&gt;<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Several months later:''' Replaced the oil cooler with a seven vane.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Aa1bflyboy&diff=3131 2009-02-12T20:11:34Z

<p>WikiSysop: New page: OK, but who ARE you? Please add your name to your user page.</p> <hr /> <div>OK, but who ARE you? Please add your name to your user page.</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=3130 2009-02-12T20:10:25Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br /> <br /> Bondline is a place for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman Grumman] owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br /> <br /> [http://twitter.com/bondline Follow Bondline on Twitter].<br /> <br /> == Important Grumman Resources ==<br /> <br /> * [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.ayaforum.org/ AYA Forum].<br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list. Note that many topics have been covered previously on the Grumman-Gang and can be found in the Grumman-Gang archives, available to subscribers.<br /> * [http://www.fletchair.com FletchAir], the first source for PMA Grumman parts.<br /> * [http://p.webring.com/hub?ring=grumman;sid=33;id=33;hub The Grumman Enthusiast's WebRing].<br /> <br /> == Technical Information ==<br /> <br /> * [[General]]<br /> * [[Maintenance]]<br /> * [[Operations]]<br /> * [[337s]]<br /> <br /> == Tips from Bondline Contributors ==<br /> <br /> * [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=GrummanMechanics&diff=3078 2009-02-10T21:02:53Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>There are frequent requests on the Grumman Gang for Grumman savvy mechanics. The hope is that we may build a database here, similar to the concept of TripAdvisor. The list should be organized by State, and then by field. Under state, insert the field in alphanumeric order, and then insert your mechanic. Please comment good or bad, but try to be fair. The reality is that someone may be excellent, but an owner may have a bad experience. That's fine, and expected. Just be straight, and at least the reader can make more informed decisions. Additionally, please inject a link to your user page after your comments. This will afford some sort of accountability, as well as give readers a source to query if needed.<br /> <br /> '''Policy Change for this page. The intent is to solicit comments and personal recommendations, unlike the rest of Bondline, which is intended to be factual or instructive in the comments, with the content being neutral to individuals or companies. To claim your comments, good or bad, on this page, you must identify yourself with a link to your user page, and begin and end your comments with quotation marks, to separate factual information (name, location, phone numbers, etc.) from your personal experiences, praise, or criticism. Everyone is welcome to add to this page, but do not edit other contributor's quoted comments.'''<br /> <br /> Link each of your comments to your user page, e.g. [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]], like so:<br /> <br /> :&lt;nowiki&gt;[[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]]&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> <br /> To learn how to format your entries, look at one of the other entries or read the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Wikitext Wikitext Help].<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''ARKANSAS'''<br /> <br /> D&amp;T Paint, Mena, AR<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In February, 2008, they painted my airplane, and did an acceptable $3,500 single color job. Communication is horrible. Yes, there are details I would have done differently myself, but didn't have time. I would NOT have them do anything unless you set up a $500 to start, $1000 after you strip it and send me pictures, yaddah yaddah type of plan.&quot;<br /> <br /> TwelveStone Aviation, 479-841-1836, Springdale, AR<br /> :[[User:Scott_Jernigan|Scott Jernigan]], February, 2008: &quot;John Gearhart has been working on my Cheetah for 10 years now. He was involved in the HyperCheetah conversion as well. John is a very good mechanic who refuses to cut corners, but also knows the difference between required and recommended.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''CALIFORNIA'''<br /> <br /> Mike McCarthy, Spider's Aircraft, MYF (San Diego Area)<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In May, 2007, I was looking at an airplane in the San Diego area, and Mike did a prebuy. He did it almost immediately, and called after he found a couple of items, giving me his impression. This decision saved me a good deal of money as I eliminated the airplane before he spent a ton of time on it. I really appreciated that. He seemed very type-knowlegeable.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> '''GEORGIA'''<br /> <br /> PDK (Atlanta):<br /> <br /> Steve Sirmer, AP/IA 404-788-3616<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;I was referred to Steve in late 2008. Nice guy, very reasonable, and has helped out with that 'needed this week' item for which it didn't make sense for Bob Steward to run over from Alabama. Seems knowlegable and very honest from my limited dealings. Definitely an option.&quot;<br /> <br /> [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]], AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;Experience over 2007-2009. There are just times you don't want anyone else to work on your airplane, if you live in the southeast. If I lived in Birmingham, nobody else ever WOULD work on my airplane. Due to the travel, small things don't make sense to have him travel over, but for most things I absolutely recommend Bob. The job gets done right, and you learn a whole lot in the process. We've installed a new engine, R&amp;R wings, fuel tank work, swapped fuses for breakers, replaced spinner bulkhead, all kinds of things in a short period of time.&quot;<br /> <br /> Mark Clowdus, AP<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;I have occasionally used Mark for two airplanes over the past few years. Mark is thorough, but I've come to question some of his comments. On two airplanes at prebuy, he noted a rotten alternator belt. One of those had been replaced with new 3 months earlier! I've had mixed results, as have others on field. I requested an owner assisted annual at one time, and was turned down. He has insisted that my airplane, despite being 30 years old, needs 12-inch numbers. There are just better options available.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''MARYLAND'''<br /> <br /> Roger Robinson A&amp;P/IA, Cecil Aero, 58M (Cecil County Airport)<br /> :[[User:aa1bflyboy|Steve Roberts]]: &quot;Roger is a very knowledgeable A&amp;P/IA. Retired from Delta now he has been maintaining numerous Grumman type AC for many years. He is willing to allow owner assisted maintenance or drop it off and pick it up when she is ready. Roger worked with me and my painter when I wanted to paint 'just the parts that needed paint.'&quot; <br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''MISSOURI'''<br /> <br /> 1H0 (Creve Coeur Airport)<br /> Jaime LeBlanc, AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Bkamen|Ben Kamen]], February, 2009: &quot;Jaime's a crazy cajun who used to work for TWA and has been painting and fixing airplanes for decades. A real craftsman whose prices are reasonable. He knows Grummans as he works on both 2 and 4 seaters regularly. (He usually fixes a few paint jobs from Mena, AR every year too) He's pretty laid back (read: &quot;sometimes slow&quot; with getting the work done. Sometimes it's because his schedule is hectic, sometimes it's due to weather (painting is a touchy thing as we know and he's a perfectionist)), but he gets the job done and the results are well worth it. He did the paint on my 74' AA-1B in 2004, but we had a lot of fixing to do on the plane and everything came out very nice. He also repaired the fiberglass on my front nosewheel and 2 years later you still can't tell.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''PENNSYLVANIA'''<br /> <br /> Jay Shearer A&amp;P/IA, Shearer Aviation, 9D4 (Deck Airport)<br /> :[[User:aa1bflyboy|Steve Roberts]]: &quot;Jay is a very knowledgeable A&amp;P/IA. Has been maintaining numerous Grumman type AC for many years. He is willing to allow owner assisted maintenance or drop it off and pick it up when she is ready. Jay worked with me when I upgraded to the O320. I also had Jay sign off for other work such as Xevision HID light and a Whelen strobe kit. No pencil whipping from this shop.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''WASHINGTON'''<br /> <br /> SHN (Shelton, WA)<br /> <br /> Harold Haynes, AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In Nov 2007 I bought an airplane that Harold's team had been maintaining. I cannot comment on working with Harold, but there seemed to be a LOT of things unaddressed in the airplane that I now own, and had been under his care for 10 years. I know this is somewhat typical, as I've owned several airplanes, but this one was a bit more disappointing than normal. This may be at the behest of the owner, but I feel that at least some of it should have prevented labeling log books with 'found to be in airworthy condition.'&quot;<br /> <br /> Olympic Air<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In November, 2007, They did the prebuy on my airplane. They did not want to do a wobble test, and talked me out of it. That cost me about 20 grand. They did not notice that the outboard wing section on the left side had been replaced, and unlogged. Fortunately I found the owner from 1974 and resolved this to the satisfaction of the guys I reluctantly contacted at the FSDO (dumb move, by the way). This is noticeable because of the purple glue in a '72 airplane, which I feel a Grumman savvy mechanic who actually inspected the airplane would have noticed. Essentially, I'm quite sure that the list of items to check I had sent was not so thoroughly checked. I'd travel the plane for another mechanic as opposed to using these guys.&quot;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=GrummanMechanics&diff=3069 2009-02-10T18:32:39Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>There are frequent requests on the Grumman Gang for Grumman savvy mechanics. The hope is that we may build a database here, similar to the concept of TripAdvisor. The list should be organized by State, and then by field. Under state, insert the field in alphanumeric order, and then insert your mechanic. Please comment good or bad, but try to be fair. The reality is that someone may be excellent, but an owner may have a bad experience. That's fine, and expected. Just be straight, and at least the reader can make more informed decisions. Additionally, please inject a link to your user page after your comments. This will afford some sort of accountability, as well as give readers a source to query if needed.<br /> <br /> '''Policy Change for this page. The intent is to solicit comments and personal recommendations, unlike the rest of Bondline, which is intended to be factual or instructive in the comments, with the content being neutral to individuals or companies. To claim your comments, good or bad, on this page, you must identify yourself with a link to your user page, and begin and end your comments with quotation marks, to separate factual information (name, location, phone numbers, etc.) from your personal experiences, praise, or criticism. Everyone is welcome to add to this page, but do not edit other contributor's quoted comments.'''<br /> <br /> Link each of your comments to your user page, e.g. [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]], like so:<br /> <br /> :&lt;nowiki&gt;[[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]]&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> <br /> To learn how to format your entries, look at one of the other entries or read the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Wikitext Wikitext Help].<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''ARKANSAS'''<br /> <br /> D&amp;T Paint, Mena, AR<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In February, 2008, they painted my airplane, and did an acceptable $3,500 single color job. Communication is horrible. Yes, there are details I would have done differently myself, but didn't have time. I would NOT have them do anything unless you set up a $500 to start, $1000 after you strip it and send me pictures, yaddah yaddah type of plan.&quot;<br /> <br /> TwelveStone Aviation, 479-841-1836, Springdale, AR<br /> :[[User:Scott_Jernigan|Scott Jernigan]], February, 2008: &quot;John Gearhart has been working on my Cheetah for 10 years now. He was involved in the HyperCheetah conversion as well. John is a very good mechanic who refuses to cut corners, but also knows the difference between required and recommended.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''CALIFORNIA'''<br /> <br /> Mike McCarthy, Spider's Aircraft, MYF (San Diego Area)<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In May, 2007, I was looking at an airplane in the San Diego area, and Mike did a prebuy. He did it almost immediately, and called after he found a couple of items, giving me his impression. This decision saved me a good deal of money as I eliminated the airplane before he spent a ton of time on it. I really appreciated that. He seemed very type-knowlegeable.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> '''GEORGIA'''<br /> <br /> PDK (Atlanta):<br /> <br /> Steve Sirmer, AP/IA 404-788-3616<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;I was referred to Steve in late 2008. Nice guy, very reasonable, and has helped out with that 'needed this week' item for which it didn't make sense for Bob Steward to run over from Alabama. Seems knowlegable and very honest from my limited dealings. Definitely an option.&quot;<br /> <br /> [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]], AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;Experience over 2007-2009. There are just times you don't want anyone else to work on your airplane, if you live in the southeast. If I lived in Birmingham, nobody else ever WOULD work on my airplane. Due to the travel, small things don't make sense to have him travel over, but for most things I absolutely recommend Bob. The job gets done right, and you learn a whole lot in the process. We've installed a new engine, R&amp;R wings, fuel tank work, swapped fuses for breakers, replaced spinner bulkhead, all kinds of things in a short period of time.&quot;<br /> <br /> Mark Clowdus, AP<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;I have occasionally used Mark for two airplanes over the past few years. Mark is thorough, but I've come to question some of his comments. On two airplanes at prebuy, he noted a rotten alternator belt. One of those had been replaced with new 3 months earlier! I've had mixed results, as have others on field. I requested an owner assisted annual at one time, and was turned down. He has insisted that my airplane, despite being 30 years old, needs 12-inch numbers. There are just better options available.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''MISSOURI'''<br /> <br /> 1H0 (Creve Coeur Airport)<br /> Jaime LeBlanc, AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Bkamen|Ben Kamen]], February, 2009: &quot;Jaime's a crazy cajun who used to work for TWA and has been painting and fixing airplanes for decades. A real craftsman whose prices are reasonable. He knows Grummans as he works on both 2 and 4 seaters regularly. (He usually fixes a few paint jobs from Mena, AR every year too) He's pretty laid back (read: &quot;sometimes slow&quot; with getting the work done. Sometimes it's because his schedule is hectic, sometimes it's due to weather (painting is a touchy thing as we know and he's a perfectionist)), but he gets the job done and the results are well worth it. He did the paint on my 74' AA-1B in 2004, but we had a lot of fixing to do on the plane and everything came out very nice. He also repaired the fiberglass on my front nosewheel and 2 years later you still can't tell.&quot;<br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''WASHINGTON'''<br /> <br /> SHN (Shelton, WA)<br /> <br /> Harold Haynes, AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In Nov 2007 I bought an airplane that Harold's team had been maintaining. I cannot comment on working with Harold, but there seemed to be a LOT of things unaddressed in the airplane that I now own, and had been under his care for 10 years. I know this is somewhat typical, as I've owned several airplanes, but this one was a bit more disappointing than normal. This may be at the behest of the owner, but I feel that at least some of it should have prevented labeling log books with 'found to be in airworthy condition.'&quot;<br /> <br /> Olympic Air<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In November, 2007, They did the prebuy on my airplane. They did not want to do a wobble test, and talked me out of it. That cost me about 20 grand. They did not notice that the outboard wing section on the left side had been replaced, and unlogged. Fortunately I found the owner from 1974 and resolved this to the satisfaction of the guys I reluctantly contacted at the FSDO (dumb move, by the way). This is noticeable because of the purple glue in a '72 airplane, which I feel a Grumman savvy mechanic who actually inspected the airplane would have noticed. Essentially, I'm quite sure that the list of items to check I had sent was not so thoroughly checked. I'd travel the plane for another mechanic as opposed to using these guys.&quot;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=GrummanMechanics&diff=3068 2009-02-10T18:27:36Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>There are frequent requests on the Grumman Gang for Grumman savvy mechanics. The hope is that we may build a database here, similar to the concept of TripAdvisor. The list should be organized by State, and then by field. Under state, insert the field in alphanumeric order, and then insert your mechanic. Please comment good or bad, but try to be fair. The reality is that someone may be excellent, but an owner may have a bad experience. That's fine, and expected. Just be straight, and at least the reader can make more informed decisions. Additionally, please inject a link to your user page after your comments. This will afford some sort of accountability, as well as give readers a source to query if needed.<br /> <br /> '''Policy Change for this page. The intent is to solicit comments and personal recommendations, unlike the rest of Bondline, which is intended to be factual or instructive in the comments, with the content being neutral to individuals or companies. To claim your comments, good or bad, on this page, you must identify yourself with a link to your user page, and begin and end your comments with quotation marks, to separate factual information (name, location, phone numbers, etc.) from your personal experiences, praise, or criticism. Everyone is welcome to add to this page, but do not edit other contributor's quoted comments.'''<br /> <br /> Link each of your comments to your user page, e.g. [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]], like so:<br /> <br /> :&lt;nowiki&gt;[[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]]&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> <br /> To learn how to format your entries, look at one of the other entries or read the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Wikitext Wikitext Help].<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''ARKANSAS'''<br /> <br /> D&amp;T Paint, Mena, AR<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In February, 2008, they painted my airplane, and did an acceptable $3,500 single color job. Communication is horrible. Yes, there are details I would have done differently myself, but didn't have time. I would NOT have them do anything unless you set up a $500 to start, $1000 after you strip it and send me pictures, yaddah yaddah type of plan.&quot;<br /> <br /> TwelveStone Aviation, 479-841-1836, Springdale, AR<br /> :[[User:Scott Jernigan|Scott Jernigan]], February, 2008: &quot;John Gearhart has been working on my Cheetah for 10 years now. He was involved in the HyperCheetah conversion as well. John is a very good mechanic who refuses to cut corners, but also knows the difference between required and recommended&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''CALIFORNIA'''<br /> <br /> Mike McCarthy, Spider's Aircraft, MYF (San Diego Area)<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In May, 2007, I was looking at an airplane in the San Diego area, and Mike did a prebuy. He did it almost immediately, and called after he found a couple of items, giving me his impression. This decision saved me a good deal of money as I eliminated the airplane before he spent a ton of time on it. I really appreciated that. He seemed very type-knowlegeable.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> '''GEORGIA'''<br /> <br /> PDK (Atlanta):<br /> <br /> Steve Sirmer, AP/IA 404-788-3616<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;I was referred to Steve in late 2008. Nice guy, very reasonable, and has helped out with that 'needed this week' item for which it didn't make sense for Bob Steward to run over from Alabama. Seems knowlegable and very honest from my limited dealings. Definitely an option.&quot;<br /> <br /> [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]], AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;Experience over 2007-2009. There are just times you don't want anyone else to work on your airplane, if you live in the southeast. If I lived in Birmingham, nobody else ever WOULD work on my airplane. Due to the travel, small things don't make sense to have him travel over, but for most things I absolutely recommend Bob. The job gets done right, and you learn a whole lot in the process. We've installed a new engine, R&amp;R wings, fuel tank work, swapped fuses for breakers, replaced spinner bulkhead, all kinds of things in a short period of time.&quot;<br /> <br /> Mark Clowdus, AP<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;I have occasionally used Mark for two airplanes over the past few years. Mark is thorough, but I've come to question some of his comments. On two airplanes at prebuy, he noted a rotten alternator belt. One of those had been replaced with new 3 months earlier! I've had mixed results, as have others on field. I requested an owner assisted annual at one time, and was turned down. He has insisted that my airplane, despite being 30 years old, needs 12-inch numbers. There are just better options available.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''MISSOURI'''<br /> <br /> 1H0 (Creve Coeur Airport)<br /> Jaime LeBlanc, AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Bkamen|Ben Kamen]], February, 2009: &quot;Jaime's a crazy cajun who used to work for TWA and has been painting and fixing airplanes for decades. A real craftsman whose prices are reasonable. He knows Grummans as he works on both 2 and 4 seaters regularly. (He usually fixes a few paint jobs from Mena, AR every year too) He's pretty laid back (read: &quot;sometimes slow&quot; with getting the work done. Sometimes it's because his schedule is hectic, sometimes it's due to weather (painting is a touchy thing as we know and he's a perfectionist)), but he gets the job done and the results are well worth it. He did the paint on my 74' AA-1B in 2004, but we had a lot of fixing to do on the plane and everything came out very nice. He also repaired the fiberglass on my front nosewheel and 2 years later you still can't tell.&quot;<br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''WASHINGTON'''<br /> <br /> SHN (Shelton, WA)<br /> <br /> Harold Haynes, AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In Nov 2007 I bought an airplane that Harold's team had been maintaining. I cannot comment on working with Harold, but there seemed to be a LOT of things unaddressed in the airplane that I now own, and had been under his care for 10 years. I know this is somewhat typical, as I've owned several airplanes, but this one was a bit more disappointing than normal. This may be at the behest of the owner, but I feel that at least some of it should have prevented labeling log books with 'found to be in airworthy condition.'&quot;<br /> <br /> Olympic Air<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In November, 2007, They did the prebuy on my airplane. They did not want to do a wobble test, and talked me out of it. That cost me about 20 grand. They did not notice that the outboard wing section on the left side had been replaced, and unlogged. Fortunately I found the owner from 1974 and resolved this to the satisfaction of the guys I reluctantly contacted at the FSDO (dumb move, by the way). This is noticeable because of the purple glue in a '72 airplane, which I feel a Grumman savvy mechanic who actually inspected the airplane would have noticed. Essentially, I'm quite sure that the list of items to check I had sent was not so thoroughly checked. I'd travel the plane for another mechanic as opposed to using these guys.&quot;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=GrummanMechanics&diff=3055 2009-02-10T17:54:33Z

<p>WikiSysop: </p> <hr /> <div>There are frequent requests on the Grumman Gang for Grumman savvy mechanics. The hope is that we may build a database here, similar to the concept of TripAdvisor. The list should be organized by State, and then by field. Under state, insert the field in alphanumeric order, and then insert your mechanic. Please comment good or bad, but try to be fair. The reality is that someone may be excellent, but an owner may have a bad experience. That's fine, and expected. Just be straight, and at least the reader can make more informed decisions. Additionally, please inject a link to your user page after your comments. This will afford some sort of accountability, as well as give readers a source to query if needed.<br /> <br /> '''Policy Change for this page. The intent is to solicit comments and personal recommendations, unlike the rest of Bondline, which is intended to be factual or instructive in the comments, with the content being neutral to individuals or companies. To claim your comments, good or bad, on this page, you must identify yourself with a link to your user page, and begin and end your comments with quotation marks, to separate factual information (name, location, phone numbers, etc.) from your personal experiences, praise, or criticism. Everyone is welcome to add to this page, but do not edit other contributor's quoted comments.'''<br /> <br /> Link each of your comments to your user page, e.g. [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]], like so:<br /> <br /> :&lt;nowiki&gt;[[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]]&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> <br /> To learn how to format your entries, look at one of the other entries or read the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Wikitext Wikitext Help].<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''ARKANSAS'''<br /> <br /> D&amp;T Paint, Mena, AR<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In February, 2008, they painted my airplane, and did an acceptable $3,500 single color job. Communication is horrible. Yes, there are details I would have done differently myself, but didn't have time. I would NOT have them do anything unless you set up a $500 to start, $1000 after you strip it and send me pictures, yaddah yaddah type of plan.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''CALIFORNIA'''<br /> <br /> Mike McCarthy, Spider's Aircraft, MYF (San Diego Area)<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In May, 2007, I was looking at an airplane in the San Diego area, and Mike did a prebuy. He did it almost immediately, and called after he found a couple of items, giving me his impression. This decision saved me a good deal of money as I eliminated the airplane before he spent a ton of time on it. I really appreciated that. He seemed very type-knowlegeable.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> '''GEORGIA'''<br /> <br /> PDK (Atlanta):<br /> <br /> Steve Sirmer, AP/IA 404-788-3616<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;Nice guy, very reasonable, and has helped out with that 'needed this week' item for which it didn't make sense for Bob Steward to run over from Alabama. Seems knowlegable and very honest from my limited dealings. Definitely an option.&quot;<br /> <br /> [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]], AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;There are just times you don't want anyone else to work on your airplane, if you live in the southeast. If I lived in Birmingham, nobody else ever WOULD work on my airplane. Due to the travel, small things don't make sense to have him travel over, but for most things I absolutely recommend Bob. The job gets done right, and you learn a whole lot in the process.&quot;<br /> <br /> Mark Clowdus, AP<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;I have occasionally used Mark for two airplanes. Mark is thorough, but I've come to question some of his comments. On two airplanes at prebuy, he noted a rotten alternator belt. One of those had been replaced with new 3 months earlier! I've had mixed results, as have others on field. I requested an owner assisted annual at one time, and was turned down. He has insisted that my airplane, despite being 30 years old, needs 12-inch numbers. There are just better options available.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''MISSOURI'''<br /> <br /> 1H0 (Creve Coeur Airport)<br /> Jaime LeBlanc, AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Bkamen|Ben Kamen]], February, 2009: &quot;Jaime's a crazy cajun who used to work for TWA and has been painting and fixing airplanes for decades. A real craftsman whose prices are reasonable. He knows Grummans as he works on both 2 and 4 seaters regularly. (He usually fixes a few paint jobs from Mena, AR every year too) He's pretty laid back (read: &quot;sometimes slow&quot; with getting the work done. Sometimes it's because his schedule is hectic, sometimes it's due to weather (painting is a touchy thing as we know and he's a perfectionist)), but he gets the job done and the results are well worth it. He did the paint on my 74' AA-1B in 2004, but we had a lot of fixing to do on the plane and everything came out very nice. He also repaired the fiberglass on my front nosewheel and 2 years later you still can't tell.&quot;<br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''WASHINGTON'''<br /> <br /> SHN (Shelton, WA)<br /> <br /> Harold Haynes, AP/IA<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], November, 2007: &quot;I cannot comment on working with Harold, but there seemed to be a LOT of things unaddressed in the airplane that I now own, and had been under his care for 10 years. I know this is somewhat typical, as I've owned several airplanes, but this one was a bit more disappointing than normal. This may be at the behest of the owner, but I feel that at least some of it should have prevented labeling log books with 'found to be in airworthy condition.'&quot;<br /> <br /> Olympic Air<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;In November, 2008, They did the prebuy on my airplane. They did not want to do a wobble test, and talked me out of it. That cost me about 20 grand. They did not notice that the outboard wing section on the left side had been replaced, and unlogged. Fortunately I found the owner from 1974 and resolved this to the satisfaction of the guys I reluctantly contacted at the FSDO (dumb move, by the way). This is noticeable because of the purple glue in a '72 airplane, which I feel a Grumman savvy mechanic who actually inspected the airplane would have noticed. Essentially, I'm quite sure that the list of items to check I had sent was not so thoroughly checked. I'd travel the plane for another mechanic as opposed to using these guys.&quot;</div>

WikiSysop https://bondline.org/index.php?title=GrummanMechanics&diff=3054 2009-02-10T17:48:09Z

<p>WikiSysop: Reverted edits by Scoffey (Talk) to last version by WikiSysop</p> <hr /> <div>There are frequent requests on the Grumman Gang for Grumman savvy mechanics. The hope is that we may build a database here, similar to the concept of TripAdvisor. The list should be organized by State, and then by field. Under state, insert the field in alphanumeric order, and then insert your mechanic. Please comment good or bad, but try to be fair. The reality is that someone may be excellent, but an owner may have a bad experience. That's fine, and expected. Just be straight, and at least the reader can make more informed decisions. Additionally, please inject a link to your user page after your comments. This will afford some sort of accountability, as well as give readers a source to query if needed.<br /> <br /> '''Policy Change for this page. The intent is to solicit comments and personal recommendations, unlike the rest of Bondline, which is intended to be factual or instructive in the comments, with the content being neutral to individuals or companies. To claim your comments, good or bad, on this page, you must identify yourself with a link to your user page, and begin and end your comments with quotation marks, to separate factual information (name, location, phone numbers, etc.) from your personal experiences, praise, or criticism. Everyone is welcome to add to this page, but do not edit other contributor's quoted comments.'''<br /> <br /> Link each of your comments to your user page, e.g. [[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]], like so:<br /> <br /> :&lt;nowiki&gt;[[User:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]]&lt;/nowiki&gt;<br /> <br /> To learn how to format your entries, look at one of the other entries or read the [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Wikitext Wikitext Help].<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''ARKANSAS'''<br /> <br /> D&amp;T Paint, Mena, AR<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2008: &quot;They painted my airplane, and did an acceptable $3,500 single color job. Communication is horrible. Yes, there are details I would have done differently myself, but didn't have time. I would NOT have them do anything unless you set up a $500 to start, $1000 after you strip it and send me pictures, yaddah yaddah type of plan.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''CALIFORNIA'''<br /> <br /> MYF (San Diego Area):<br /> <br /> Mike McCarthy, Spider's Aircraft<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], May, 2007: &quot;I was looking at an airplane in the San Diego area, and Mike did a prebuy. He did it almost immediately, and called after he found a couple of items, giving me his impression. This decision saved me a good deal of money as I eliminated the airplane before he spent a ton of time on it. I really appreciated that. He seemed very type-knowlegeable.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> '''GEORGIA'''<br /> <br /> PDK (Atlanta):<br /> <br /> Steve Sirmer, AP/IA 404-788-3616<br /> :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]], February, 2009: &quot;Nice guy, very reasonable, and has helped out with that &quot;needed this week&quot; item for which it didn't make sense for Bob Steward to run over from Alabama. Seems knowlegable and very honest from my limited dealings. Definitely an option.&quot;<br /> <br /> Bob Steward. n76lima@mindspring.com. AP/IA. <br /> 2/09/09. :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;There are just times you don't want anyone else to work on your airplane, if you live in the southeast. If I lived in Birmingham, nobody else ever WOULD work on my airplane. Due to the travel, small things don't make sense to have him travel over, but for most things I absolutely recommend Bob. The job gets done right, and you learn a whole lot in the process.&quot;<br /> <br /> Mark Clowdus. AP. <br /> 2/09/09. :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;I have occasionally used Mark for two airplanes. Mark is thorough, but I've come to question some of his comments. On two airplanes at prebuy, he noted a rotten alternator belt. One of those had been replaced with new 3 months earlier! I've had mixed results, as have others on field. I requested an owner assisted annual at one time, and was turned down. He has insisted that my airplane, despite being 30 years old, needs 12&quot; numbers. There are just better options available.&quot;<br /> <br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''MISSOURI'''<br /> <br /> 1H0- Creve Coeur Airport <br /> 2/10/09 Jaime LeBlanc. AP/IA. :[[User:Bkamen|Ben Kamen]]: &quot;Jaime's a crazy cajun who used to work for TWA and has been painting and fixing airplanes for decades. A real craftsman whose prices are reasonable. He knows Grummans as he works on both 2 and 4 seaters regularly. (He usually fixes a few paint jobs from Mena, AR every year too) He's pretty laid back (read: &quot;sometimes slow&quot; with getting the work done. Sometimes it's because his schedule is hectic, sometimes it's due to weather (painting is a touchy thing as we know and he's a perfectionist)), but he gets the job done and the results are well worth it. He did the paint on my 74' AA-1B in 2004, but we had a lot of fixing to do on the plane and everything came out very nice. He also repaired the fiberglass on my front nosewheel and 2 years later you still can't tell.&quot;<br /> ----<br /> <br /> '''WASHINGTON'''<br /> <br /> SHN- Shelton<br /> 11/1/07. Harold Haynes. AP/IA. :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;I cannot comment on working with Harold, but there seemed to be a LOT of things unaddressed in the airplane that I now own, and had been under his care for 10 years. I know this is somewhat typical, as I've owned several airplanes, but this one was a bit more disappointing than normal. This may be at the behest of the owner, but I feel that at least some of it should have prevented labeling log books with &quot;found to be in airworthy condition.&quot;&quot;<br /> <br /> SHN- Shelton<br /> 11/1/08. Olympic Air. :[[User:Scoffey|Stephen Coffey]]: &quot;They did the prebuy on my airplane. They did not want to do a wobble test, and talked me out of it. That cost me about 20 grand. They did not notice that the outboard wing section on the left side had been replaced, and unlogged. Fortunately I found the owner from 1974 and resolved this to the satisfaction of the guys I reluctantly contacted at the FSDO (dumb move, by the way). This is noticeable because of the purple glue in a '72 airplane, which I feel a Grumman savvy mechanic who actually inspected the airplane would have noticed. Essentially, I'm quite sure that the list of items to check I had sent was not so thoroughly checked. I'd travel the plane for another mechanic as opposed to using these guys.&quot;</div>

WikiSysop
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