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https://bondline.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Markm 2026-11-10T23:49:06Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.39.17 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=4124 2022-03-30T03:21:59Z

<p>Markm: Removed dead link</p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> == About Bondline ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br /> <br /> Bondline is a place for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman Grumman] owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br /> <br /> [http://twitter.com/Bondline Follow Bondline] on [[Image:Twitterlogo.png|63x15px|text-bottom|Twitter]].<br /> <br /> == Important Grumman Resources ==<br /> <br /> * [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br /> * [http://grummanpilotsassociation.com/ Grumman Pilots Association], a new organization being developed by several active owners. <br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list. Note that many topics have been covered previously on the Grumman-Gang and can be found in the Grumman-Gang archives, available to subscribers.<br /> * [http://www.fletchair.com FletchAir], the first source for [[FletchAir_Parts|PMA Grumman parts.]]<br /> * [http://p.webring.com/hub?ring=grumman;sid=33;id=33;hub The Grumman Enthusiast's WebRing].<br /> <br /> == Technical Information ==<br /> <br /> * [[General]]<br /> * [[Maintenance]]<br /> * [[Operations]]<br /> * [[337s]]<br /> <br /> == Tips from Bondline Contributors ==<br /> <br /> * [[FunFlyinLocations|Fun Fly-In Locations]]<br /> * [[GrummanMechanics|Grumman-Savvy Mechanics]]<br /> * [[True_Confessions|Grumman Owners &quot;True Confessions&quot;]]<br /> <br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Maintenance&diff=4123 2022-03-30T01:37:22Z

<p>Markm: /* Electrical Systems */</p> <hr /> <div>We've organized this section to mirror the headings in the factory maintenance manual. Note that the section headings are &quot;clickable&quot; and take you to summary pages for that section. Links are repeated on those summary pages.<br /> <br /> == [[Maintenance: General|General]] ==<br /> <br /> * Required Information and Documentation<br /> * Logbooks and Recording<br /> <br /> == [[Servicing]] ==<br /> <br /> * Inspections<br /> * Oil Changes<br /> * Tire Air Pressure<br /> * Grease and Fluids references<br /> <br /> == [[Airframe]] ==<br /> <br /> * Disassembly<br /> * Dorsal Fin Replacement<br /> * Headliner<br /> * Rear and Canopy Headliner<br /> * [[Canopy Teflon Runner Replacement]] <br /> * [[Interior Trim]]<br /> * Whelen Strobe Installation Inside the Red Rudder Cap<br /> * [[Window Replacement]]<br /> * Replacement Parts<br /> <br /> == [[Landing Gear]] ==<br /> <br /> * Brake System<br /> * Nose Strut<br /> * Wheels<br /> * Main Landing Gear Attach Bolts<br /> * Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement<br /> <br /> == [[Control Systems]] ==<br /> <br /> * Rigging<br /> * Stall Warning System<br /> <br /> == [[Powerplant]] ==<br /> <br /> * Engine Baffles<br /> * Engine Swaps and Mods<br /> * Cylinders<br /> * Oil and Filter<br /> * Overhaul and field service <br /> * TBO considerations<br /> * Valve Wobble Testing<br /> * Vacuum Pump<br /> <br /> == [[Propeller]] ==<br /> <br /> * Back Plate<br /> <br /> == [[Fuel System]] ==<br /> <br /> * Fuel Tank Leaks<br /> * Auxiliary Fuel Tank<br /> * Fuel Level Transmitter<br /> * Fuel Tank Drains<br /> <br /> == [[Instrumentation]] ==<br /> <br /> * Installing Mitchell Gauges<br /> * Installing a Horizon P-1000 tachometer<br /> * Sensing Manifold Presure<br /> <br /> == [[Structural Repair]] ==<br /> <br /> * An Example Repair<br /> * Lower Cowling Split<br /> * Repair of Debonding<br /> * Tail Tiedown Repair<br /> <br /> == [[Preparations for Painting|Painting]] ==<br /> <br /> * Preparations for Painting<br /> <br /> == [[Electrical Systems]] ==<br /> <br /> * Charging Systems<br /> * Panel Switches<br /> * Drilled Yoke for A/P Interrupt or PTT switch<br /> [[Category:Maintenance]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Drilled_Yoke_for_A/P_Interrupt_or_PTT_switch&diff=4122 2022-03-30T01:35:56Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div>From time to time, the question of how to drill a hole in the yoke to accommodate a PTT switch.<br /> <br /> As it turns out, American Aviation did this for the Century Autopilot's interrupt switch.<br /> <br /> Here is a copy of the factory drawing, 5804014C, showing how they did it for AA5s, through early AA5Bs. This drawing was made inactive dated 5 June 1975.<br /> <br /> [[File:DWG5804014C.jpg|thumb|600 px|center|DWG 5804014, Control Wheel AutoPilot Switch Instl]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:DWG5804014C.jpg&diff=4121 2022-03-30T01:34:00Z

<p>Markm: Scan of American Aviation Dwg 5804014C, documenting the installation of the autopilot interrupt switch in the control yoke. Applicable to AA5 s/n 0001 - 0830 and AA5B s/n 0001 - 0093. DWG marked &quot;inactive&quot; 5 Jun 1975. Retrieved from Ken Blackman&#039;s shop, when closing it out.</p> <hr /> <div>== Summary ==<br /> Scan of American Aviation Dwg 5804014C, documenting the installation of the autopilot interrupt switch in the control yoke. Applicable to AA5 s/n 0001 - 0830 and AA5B s/n 0001 - 0093. DWG marked &quot;inactive&quot; 5 Jun 1975. Retrieved from Ken Blackman's shop, when closing it out.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Drilled_Yoke_for_A/P_Interrupt_or_PTT_switch&diff=4120 2022-03-30T01:23:06Z

<p>Markm: Trying to recreate page with correct pdf image</p> <hr /> <div>From time to time, the question of how to drill a hole in the yoke to accommodate a PTT switch.<br /> <br /> As it turns out, American Aviation did this for the Century Autopilot's interrupt switch.<br /> <br /> Here is a copy of the factory drawing, 5804014C, showing how they did it for AA5s, through early AA5Bs. This drawing was made inactive dated 5 June 1975.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Electrical_Systems&diff=4106 2022-03-30T00:43:37Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div>* [[Charging Systems]]<br /> <br /> * [[Panel Switches]]<br /> <br /> * [[Drilled Yoke for A/P Interrupt or PTT switch]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Maintenance&diff=4101 2021-05-05T18:05:31Z

<p>Markm: /* Instrumentation */</p> <hr /> <div>We've organized this section to mirror the headings in the factory maintenance manual. Note that the section headings are &quot;clickable&quot; and take you to summary pages for that section. Links are repeated on those summary pages.<br /> <br /> == [[Maintenance: General|General]] ==<br /> <br /> * Required Information and Documentation<br /> * Logbooks and Recording<br /> <br /> == [[Servicing]] ==<br /> <br /> * Inspections<br /> * Oil Changes<br /> * Tire Air Pressure<br /> * Grease and Fluids references<br /> <br /> == [[Airframe]] ==<br /> <br /> * Disassembly<br /> * Dorsal Fin Replacement<br /> * Headliner<br /> * Rear and Canopy Headliner<br /> * [[Canopy Teflon Runner Replacement]] <br /> * [[Interior Trim]]<br /> * Whelen Strobe Installation Inside the Red Rudder Cap<br /> * [[Window Replacement]]<br /> * Replacement Parts<br /> <br /> == [[Landing Gear]] ==<br /> <br /> * Brake System<br /> * Nose Strut<br /> * Wheels<br /> * Main Landing Gear Attach Bolts<br /> * Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement<br /> <br /> == [[Control Systems]] ==<br /> <br /> * Rigging<br /> * Stall Warning System<br /> <br /> == [[Powerplant]] ==<br /> <br /> * Engine Baffles<br /> * Engine Swaps and Mods<br /> * Cylinders<br /> * Oil and Filter<br /> * Overhaul and field service <br /> * TBO considerations<br /> * Valve Wobble Testing<br /> * Vacuum Pump<br /> <br /> == [[Propeller]] ==<br /> <br /> * Back Plate<br /> <br /> == [[Fuel System]] ==<br /> <br /> * Fuel Tank Leaks<br /> * Auxiliary Fuel Tank<br /> * Fuel Level Transmitter<br /> * Fuel Tank Drains<br /> <br /> == [[Instrumentation]] ==<br /> <br /> * Installing Mitchell Gauges<br /> * Installing a Horizon P-1000 tachometer<br /> * Sensing Manifold Presure<br /> <br /> == [[Structural Repair]] ==<br /> <br /> * An Example Repair<br /> * Lower Cowling Split<br /> * Repair of Debonding<br /> * Tail Tiedown Repair<br /> <br /> == [[Preparations for Painting|Painting]] ==<br /> <br /> * Preparations for Painting<br /> <br /> == [[Electrical Systems]] ==<br /> <br /> * Charging Systems<br /> * Panel Switches<br /> <br /> [[Category:Maintenance]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Sensing_Manifold_Pressure&diff=4100 2021-05-05T18:04:25Z

<p>Markm: Created page with &quot;One way to pick up manifold pressure, either for a gauge or an electronic ignition system, is to use the otherwise unused fuel injection port on our normally aspirated airplan...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>One way to pick up manifold pressure, either for a gauge or an electronic ignition system, is to use the otherwise unused fuel injection port on our normally aspirated airplanes. The photo depicts one way to do it, with a hardline attached to the port on the #1 cylinder, routed and supported with adel clamps on the #3 pushrod housing, and then to a bulkhead connector mounted to the rear baffle.<br /> &lt;br&gt;<br /> Aft of the rear baffle, a flexible hose is used to attach to the gauge inside the cockpit or other pressure sensor as needed.&lt;br&gt;<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Manifold Pressure Pickup.jpg|Manifold Pressure pick up on #1 cylinder.<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Manifold_Pressure_Pickup.jpg&diff=4099 2021-05-05T18:02:46Z

<p>Markm: An example of how to pick off manifold pressure, using the #1 cylinder port.</p> <hr /> <div>== Summary ==<br /> An example of how to pick off manifold pressure, using the #1 cylinder port.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Instrumentation&diff=4098 2021-05-05T17:52:55Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div>*[[Installing Mitchell Gauges]]<br /> *[[Installing a Horizon P-1000 tachometer]]<br /> *[[Sensing Manifold Pressure]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Panel_Switches&diff=4023 2017-03-30T03:15:57Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Cliff Daugherty's installation of SK-156'''<br /> <br /> [[Image:SK-156.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Service Kit #156, the replacement of the instrument panel rocker switches with toggle switches, was primarily cosmetic as only two switches had failed in the past 33 years. The paperwork is avaiable from Fletchair in Houston, Texas. However, the new rocker switches were slightly different than the original and didn’t fit as well in the holes. So the sub panel cut out as shown to make room for the toggle switches.<br /> <br /> [[Image:SK-156_Cutout.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Note the connecting structure between the two holes - it is important to not make the cutout too wide as it compromises the strength of the sub panel.<br /> <br /> The aluminum plate was fabricated, painted, and engraved instead of using the placards suggested in the SK. As an alternative, a plastic placard to match the aluminum piece could also be used and simply glued to the metal.<br /> <br /> Mark Matthews created the aluminum plate using design software from [[https://www.frontpanelexpress.com/ Front Panel Express]], who also manufactures the plate for you. Cost was less that $40 delivered, and about a week turnaround time.<br /> <br /> [[Image:FP_Express_Switch_Panel.jpg ‎]]<br /> <br /> SK #156 first came about from a request from the UK CAA to address the problems of overheating and smoke in the copit from the cheap Carling rocker switches. In Europe there is an Annual AD to inspect these switches and spade connectors for signs of overheating. At one stage it looked like SK156 was to become mandatory, but common sense prevailed.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:FP_Express_Switch_Panel.jpg&diff=4022 2017-03-30T03:04:25Z

<p>Markm: Switch panel overlay created with Front Panel Express design software and manufacturing.</p> <hr /> <div>Switch panel overlay created with Front Panel Express design software and manufacturing.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:SK-156_Cutout.jpg&diff=4021 2017-03-30T03:01:22Z

<p>Markm: To implement SK-156, the carling switches are removed, and the sub panel cut out to permit mounting of the replacement toggle switches.</p> <hr /> <div>To implement SK-156, the carling switches are removed, and the sub panel cut out to permit mounting of the replacement toggle switches.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Yoke_Mounting_A_Tablet&diff=4003 2015-10-22T18:25:44Z

<p>Markm: Markm moved page Yoke Mounting A Tablet to Yoke Mounting a Tablet</p> <hr /> <div>#REDIRECT [[Yoke Mounting a Tablet]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Yoke_Mounting_a_Tablet&diff=4002 2015-10-22T18:25:44Z

<p>Markm: Markm moved page Yoke Mounting A Tablet to Yoke Mounting a Tablet</p> <hr /> <div>'''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Here's one way to do it, using RAM Mount products:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:iPad-Yoke-Mounts.jpg|border|center|Yoke-mounted iPads in Tiger]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> On the left, an iPad Mini mounted horizontally between the yoke horns. On the right, a full-size iPad mounted vertically. The yoke cushions have been removed to make a little more clearance for the iPads to fit between the yoke horns.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> Both mounts use the RAM U-Bolt Mounting Base [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-231ZU RAM-B-231ZU] which wraps around the yoke column, positioned just behind the yoke. Note that the mounting ball is &quot;upside down&quot;, compared to the way these are often attached. Next, a RAM Double Socket Arm [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-201U RAM-B-201U] passes under the yoke.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> For the full-size iPad, this is the attachment for the RAM 2.5&quot; Round Ball Base [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-202U RAM-B-202U] attached to the RAM EZ-ROLL’R Cradle for the iPad 2/3/4 [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-AP15U RAM-HOL-AP15U].<br /> [[Image:iPad-Yoke-Mount.jpg|border|center|Yoke-mounted full-size iPad in Tiger]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> For the iPad Mini, there is a RAM 1&quot; Double Ball Adapter [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-230U RAM-B-230U] that connects to a RAM Short Double Socket Arm [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-201U-A RAP-B-201U-A]. This is is the attachment for the RAM 2.5&quot; Round Ball Base [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-202U RAM-B-202U] attached to the RAM EZ-ROLL’R Cradle for the iPad Mini [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-AP14U RAM-HOL-AP14U].<br /> [[Image:iPad-Mini-Yoke-Mount.jpg|border|center|Yoke-mounted iPad Mini in Tiger]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> RAM has corresponding cradles for [http://www.rammount.com/products/samsung/tablets/formfit Samsung], and more generic mounts such as [http://www.rammount.com/products/xgrip X-Grip].<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> None of these mounts do not allow for a case around the tablet. Measure carefully to determine if your encased tablet will fit using this scheme.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Tablet_Mounting_Options&diff=4001 2015-10-22T18:24:58Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div>* [[Yoke Mounting a Tablet]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Yoke_Mounting&diff=4000 2015-10-22T18:24:20Z

<p>Markm: Markm moved page Yoke Mounting to Yoke Mounting A Tablet</p> <hr /> <div>#REDIRECT [[Yoke Mounting A Tablet]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Yoke_Mounting_a_Tablet&diff=3999 2015-10-22T18:24:20Z

<p>Markm: Markm moved page Yoke Mounting to Yoke Mounting A Tablet</p> <hr /> <div>'''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Here's one way to do it, using RAM Mount products:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:iPad-Yoke-Mounts.jpg|border|center|Yoke-mounted iPads in Tiger]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> On the left, an iPad Mini mounted horizontally between the yoke horns. On the right, a full-size iPad mounted vertically. The yoke cushions have been removed to make a little more clearance for the iPads to fit between the yoke horns.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> Both mounts use the RAM U-Bolt Mounting Base [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-231ZU RAM-B-231ZU] which wraps around the yoke column, positioned just behind the yoke. Note that the mounting ball is &quot;upside down&quot;, compared to the way these are often attached. Next, a RAM Double Socket Arm [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-201U RAM-B-201U] passes under the yoke.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> For the full-size iPad, this is the attachment for the RAM 2.5&quot; Round Ball Base [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-202U RAM-B-202U] attached to the RAM EZ-ROLL’R Cradle for the iPad 2/3/4 [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-AP15U RAM-HOL-AP15U].<br /> [[Image:iPad-Yoke-Mount.jpg|border|center|Yoke-mounted full-size iPad in Tiger]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> For the iPad Mini, there is a RAM 1&quot; Double Ball Adapter [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-230U RAM-B-230U] that connects to a RAM Short Double Socket Arm [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-201U-A RAP-B-201U-A]. This is is the attachment for the RAM 2.5&quot; Round Ball Base [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-202U RAM-B-202U] attached to the RAM EZ-ROLL’R Cradle for the iPad Mini [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-AP14U RAM-HOL-AP14U].<br /> [[Image:iPad-Mini-Yoke-Mount.jpg|border|center|Yoke-mounted iPad Mini in Tiger]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> RAM has corresponding cradles for [http://www.rammount.com/products/samsung/tablets/formfit Samsung], and more generic mounts such as [http://www.rammount.com/products/xgrip X-Grip].<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> None of these mounts do not allow for a case around the tablet. Measure carefully to determine if your encased tablet will fit using this scheme.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Yoke_Mounting_a_Tablet&diff=3998 2015-10-22T18:22:21Z

<p>Markm: Shows one way to yoke mount tablet computers using RAM Mount products.</p> <hr /> <div>'''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Here's one way to do it, using RAM Mount products:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:iPad-Yoke-Mounts.jpg|border|center|Yoke-mounted iPads in Tiger]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> On the left, an iPad Mini mounted horizontally between the yoke horns. On the right, a full-size iPad mounted vertically. The yoke cushions have been removed to make a little more clearance for the iPads to fit between the yoke horns.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> Both mounts use the RAM U-Bolt Mounting Base [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-231ZU RAM-B-231ZU] which wraps around the yoke column, positioned just behind the yoke. Note that the mounting ball is &quot;upside down&quot;, compared to the way these are often attached. Next, a RAM Double Socket Arm [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-201U RAM-B-201U] passes under the yoke.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> For the full-size iPad, this is the attachment for the RAM 2.5&quot; Round Ball Base [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-202U RAM-B-202U] attached to the RAM EZ-ROLL’R Cradle for the iPad 2/3/4 [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-AP15U RAM-HOL-AP15U].<br /> [[Image:iPad-Yoke-Mount.jpg|border|center|Yoke-mounted full-size iPad in Tiger]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> For the iPad Mini, there is a RAM 1&quot; Double Ball Adapter [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-230U RAM-B-230U] that connects to a RAM Short Double Socket Arm [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAP-B-201U-A RAP-B-201U-A]. This is is the attachment for the RAM 2.5&quot; Round Ball Base [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-B-202U RAM-B-202U] attached to the RAM EZ-ROLL’R Cradle for the iPad Mini [http://www.rammount.com/part/RAM-HOL-AP14U RAM-HOL-AP14U].<br /> [[Image:iPad-Mini-Yoke-Mount.jpg|border|center|Yoke-mounted iPad Mini in Tiger]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> RAM has corresponding cradles for [http://www.rammount.com/products/samsung/tablets/formfit Samsung], and more generic mounts such as [http://www.rammount.com/products/xgrip X-Grip].<br /> &lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;<br /> None of these mounts do not allow for a case around the tablet. Measure carefully to determine if your encased tablet will fit using this scheme.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:IPad-Mini-Yoke-Mount.jpg&diff=3997 2015-10-22T18:11:43Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:IPad-Yoke-Mount.jpg&diff=3996 2015-10-22T18:11:17Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:IPad-Yoke-Mounts.jpg&diff=3995 2015-10-22T18:06:18Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Tablet_Mounting_Options&diff=3994 2015-10-22T17:29:29Z

<p>Markm: Establish a page documenting yoke-mounted tablet options</p> <hr /> <div>* [[Yoke Mounting]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Operations&diff=3993 2015-10-22T17:28:31Z

<p>Markm: Establish a link to pages documenting methods to mount tablets.</p> <hr /> <div>* [[Sample Binder]]<br /> * [[Preflight]]<br /> * [[Normal Procedures]]<br /> * [[Emergency]]<br /> * [[Performance]]<br /> * [[Towing]]<br /> * [[Grumman-Experienced CFIs]]<br /> * [[Tablet Mounting Options]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Electronic_Lamp_Dimmer_AA5-B&diff=3906 2014-09-03T15:43:37Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div>An exact replacement for the the high-power rheostat that controls the lighting in our planes hasn't been available for years. When mine became intermittent, I decided to install an electronic dimmer and obtain field approval via 337.<br /> <br /> I chose the model [http://www.bandc.biz/dimmerinstallation30a14v.aspx DM30-14] available through [http://www.bandcspecialty.com/index.html B and C Specialty] because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls of [http://www.aeroelectric.com Aeroelectric Connection]) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.<br /> <br /> One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob from the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve. <br /> The 337 for the Aero Electric Connection lam dimmer is at:<br /> <br /> http://www.campbells.org/Airplanes/337s/index_Airplanes337s.html</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Electronic_Lamp_Dimmer_AA5-B&diff=3905 2014-09-03T15:42:48Z

<p>Markm: Fixed broken link</p> <hr /> <div>An exact replacement for the the high-power rheostat that controls the lighting in our planes hasn't been available for years. When mine became intermittent, I decided to install an electronic dimmer and obtain field approval via 337.<br /> <br /> I chose the model [http://www.bandc.biz/dimmerinstallation30a14v.aspx] available through [http://www.bandcspecialty.com/index.html B and C Specialty] because it seemed well designed and engineered (by guru Bob Nuckolls of [http://www.aeroelectric.com Aeroelectric Connection]) and moderately priced. My friend Steve Williams and I did the installation, which was surprisingly easy. Our work was inspected by my IA, who obtained an unremarkable field approval.<br /> <br /> One item in the 337 parts description needs explanation: why overkill on the dimmer control (I used a 2-watt potentiometer)? Well, to maintain authenticity I wanted to reuse the orginal knob from the rheostat, but found that its shaft was far too large for the 1/2-watt potentiometer I had intended to use. So, I bought the smallest potentiomter whose shaft fit the knob--which turned out to be a 2-watt model. Even if you don't care about using the factory knob, I'd ''still'' recommend using a potentiometer with a large shaft, because a smaller shaft will wallow in the over-sized panel hole, which no IA in his right mind would approve. <br /> The 337 for the Aero Electric Connection lam dimmer is at:<br /> <br /> http://www.campbells.org/Airplanes/337s/index_Airplanes337s.html</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Fuel_System&diff=3836 2014-04-02T23:10:51Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div>* [[Fuel Tank Leaks]]<br /> <br /> * [[Auxiliary Fuel Tank]]<br /> <br /> * [[Fuel Level Transmitter]]<br /> <br /> * [[Fuel Tank Drains]]<br /> <br /> * [[Water Manometer]]</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Water_Manometer&diff=3835 2014-04-02T23:09:57Z

<p>Markm: Created page with &quot;== Introduction == &#039;&#039;&#039;Mechanical Difficulty:&#039;&#039;&#039; Image:wrench2.jpg When diagnosing and repairing fuel system leaks, having a controlled low pressure air source is invaluable...&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>== Introduction ==<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> When diagnosing and repairing fuel system leaks, having a controlled low pressure air source is invaluable.<br /> <br /> The Maintenance Manual call for pressure checking the fuel tanks with an air pressure of '''0.5 psi''', which is almost impossible to achieve using the typically available compressed air sources and pressure regulators. Trying to use such sources can also endanger a fuel tank, as over-pressuring the tank can break bond lines and severely damage or destroy the tank.<br /> <br /> Using a water manometer as a pressure gauge and a low-volume air source gives one much better control over the process. There are a number of design floating around the web, a good example is this [http://iflyez.com/manometer.shtml one].<br /> <br /> Here's some pictures of one assembled in about 15 minutes from stuff laying about the shop:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Water Manometer Fig1.jpg|400px]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> The tubing goes from the pump, to a tee fitting, to the tank vent of the tank to pressurize. A U-shaped length of tubing goes from the<br /> tee fitting, down to the bottom of the ruler and back to the top, where the open end of that tubing is used to fill part of the U section with water.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Water Manometer Fig2.jpg|400px]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> Here you can see the water in the tubing at ambient pressure. If you have some food coloring or other water-based dye handy, it makes the water level easier to see, but it's not strictly necessary.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Water Manometer Fig3.jpg|400px]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> To attach the bicycle pump to the manometer tubing, cut a Presta valve out of an old road bike tire. It will thread snugly into 3/16&quot; ID tubing. Presta valves are preferred over Schrader valves because they don't have a spring closure that has to be over-pressured to force the valve open. But use what's available.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Water Manometer Fig4.jpg|400px]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> The 3/16&quot; ID tubing has just about the right size to slide snugly into the tank vent opening. Slide the tubing in the vent and temporarily seal the connection with modeling clay, Play-Doh™, plumber's putty, something similar.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Water Manometer Fig5.jpg|400px]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> To use, make sure the fuel cap is on the tank, and the fuel selector valve is off, or selecting the other tank. With the bicycle pump attached, slowly pump in air to increase the pressure in the tank. If you try to pump too fast, the transient overpressure can force the water out of the U shaped tubing and ruin your test. Try putting a finger over the open end of the tubing and closing off most (but not all) of the air escaping that tubing while pumping.<br /> <br /> For 0.5 psi, look for a difference between the low end of the water column and the high end of the column of about 13.9&quot;. Use the ruler to subtract the level of the high end from the level of the low end of the column. The important number is the difference between those two levels, not the absolute value of either level.<br /> <br /> Once the desired pressure is achieved, remove the pump and close the valve to seal off the tank.<br /> <br /> There are at least three good uses of the manometer when servicing the fuel system:<br /> * When draining the tank for service, pressurizing the tank to get the last couple of gallons out of the sump really speeds up the process.<br /> * When diagnosing the source of the fuel leak, pressurizing the empty tank and dabbing suspect locations with a 50-50 mix of liquid detergent and water and watching for bubbles helps to zero in on the actual locations of the leaks(s).<br /> * Pressurizing the tank after repair is easier to confirm success without having to fill the tank with fuel, and subsequently have to drain the tank again if the repair wasn't successful.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Water_Manometer_Fig5.jpg&diff=3834 2014-04-02T22:46:45Z

<p>Markm: Closeup showing tubing to tank vent connection</p> <hr /> <div>Closeup showing tubing to tank vent connection</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Water_Manometer_Fig4.jpg&diff=3833 2014-04-02T22:35:24Z

<p>Markm: Presta valve to seal off the manometer when desired pressure is achieved.</p> <hr /> <div>Presta valve to seal off the manometer when desired pressure is achieved.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Water_Manometer_Fig3.jpg&diff=3832 2014-04-02T22:32:37Z

<p>Markm: Closeup showing water levels in tubing</p> <hr /> <div>Closeup showing water levels in tubing</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Water_Manometer_Fig2.jpg&diff=3831 2014-04-02T22:31:27Z

<p>Markm: Closeup showing tee fitting and connection to bicycle tire pump.</p> <hr /> <div>Closeup showing tee fitting and connection to bicycle tire pump.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Water_Manometer_Fig1.jpg&diff=3830 2014-04-02T22:25:57Z

<p>Markm: Overview of assembled manometer</p> <hr /> <div>Overview of assembled manometer</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=FunFlyinLocations&diff=3829 2014-04-02T20:54:17Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div>'''What is your favorite Fly-in location? Here are some of ours:''' <br /> <br /> '''ALABAMA'''<br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/KEKY EKY] Bessemer, AL '''The Hangar''', a new on-field restaurant. [[user:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]] says: &quot;I've been to this Sports bar with aviation theme, good $100 burger, etc.&quot; Region 4 had a fly-in Saturday Feb 21 @ lunch. 9 Aircraft and 18 attendees, reviews were very positive, with requests to meet there again.<br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/KJKA JKA] Gulf Shores, AL Jack Edwards Airport is just off the Gulf Coast, and convenient to many &quot;Beach&quot; activities and lots of choices for food. Jimmy Buffet's sister has a restaurant '''Lulu's at Homeport''' just up the road, as well as every kind of fresh-caught seafood, available from roadside stands to white tablecloth establishments. And don't forget those white sand beaches that AL and FL panhandle coasts are known for... <br /> <br /> <br /> '''ARKANSAS'''<br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/KMEZ MEZ] Mena, AR Aircraft paint and engine shops -- of interest if you are thinking paint/engine/upholstery. [[User:scoffey|Stephen Coffey]] Be advised, after a long flight, there isn't a beer for MILES. And the Sun Country Inn is much newer/nicer than the other options if you get the &quot;privilege&quot; of getting socked in for 3 days like I did. [[user:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]] says: &quot;I can second the recommendation for Sun Country Inn. I've stayed there and at 2 other local motels while working at the Mena Airport on various Grummans. Lime Tree has a nice restaurant (Sun Country has no food), but the building is older and the rooms less nice than Sun Country. I ate breakfast at Lime Tree multiple times.&quot; <br /> <br /> <br /> '''FLORIDA'''<br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/55J 55J] Fernandina Beach / Amelia Island. [[User:scoffey|Stephen Coffey]] The Ritz there occasionally does last minute specials at a good price. The airport is a 5 minute cab ride to the hotel. Downtown is kinda quaint and cool. Quick and easy SE get away. <br /> <br /> <br /> '''GEORGIA'''<br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/KFFC FFC] Falcon Field Peachtree City, GA '''Aircraft Spruce East''', '''Dixie Wing of Confederate Air Force Restoration Center''' <br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/KLZU LZU] Gwinnett County Lawrenceville, GA '''EAA 690 Pancake Breakfast''' 1st Saturday every month. Program follows @ 10:30 <br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/KPDK PDK] Dekalb-Peachtree in North Atlanta, GA '''Downwind Restaurant''' (on the second story of the Administration Building next to Epps Air Service). Has balcony/deck for outdoor dining when Wx is good. <br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/KRYY RYY] Cobb County Airport-Mc Collum Field '''Elevation Chophouse''' [[User:scoffey|Stephen Coffey]] &quot;Higher end food, but pretty good. Nice HUGE glass wall facing the runway.&quot; <br /> <br /> <br /> '''KENTUCKY'''<br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/KOWB OWB] Owensboro, KY '''Moonlight BBQ''' (not on field, only a short drive), '''Bill and Carol Scott's Precision Engine''' shop. [[user:Bob_Steward|Bob Steward]] says: &quot;I visit Moonlight BBQ everytime I stop by Precision Engine to see Bill and Carol.&quot; <br /> <br /> <br /> '''NEW JERSEY'''<br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/12N 12N] Aeroflex, NJ '''Kittatiny State Park''' Nice biking and hiking trails start at the airport, Boating - lake 100 yards from the runway. Bring your own inflatable boat or bicycles.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''OREGON'''<br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/61S 61S] Cottage Grove, OR The [http://www.americantrails.org/nationalrecreationtrails/blm/rowriver-or.html '''Row River Trail'''] is a paved bike path that goes miles from Cottage Grove up to Culp Creek. Join the path where is passes just outside the entrance to the Cottage Grove airport, and enjoy 15 miles of converted railroad right of way that passes three preserved covered bridges and Dorena Lake.<br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/7S5 7S5] Independence, OR '''Starduster Cafe''' Best on-airport food in the Willamette Valley. Open daily, 6AM-3PM. Breakfast and lunch served all day.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''PENNSYLVANIA'''<br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/LNS LNS] Lancaster, PA '''Fiorentinos''' Good Italian restaurant located in the terminal building. There is also a small pilot shop located in the FBO. The FBO will send a van for you, or you can walk (~10 minutes).<br /> <br /> <br /> '''UTAH'''<br /> <br /> :[http://www.airnav.com/airport/KBCE BCE] Bryce Canyon, UT '''Bryce Canyon National Park''' The national park entrance is about 3 miles from the airport, and '''Ruby's Inn''' will send a shuttle to pick you up from the airport. From the Inn, park shuttle busses travel the main road of the park, so you don't need a rental car. Ruby's has hotel rooms, cabins, tent sites, or you can spend the night in a tepee.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Brake_Master_and_Slave_Cylinders&diff=3816 2013-11-14T19:26:09Z

<p>Markm: /* The Master Cylinders */</p> <hr /> <div>__TOC__<br /> <br /> == Introduction ==<br /> <br /> Properly maintaining the brake system on Grumman American aircraft is extremely important because the brakes are the only way to steer the plane on the ground at low speeds where the rudder is ineffective.<br /> <br /> The hydraulic brakes use a [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php Mil Spec fluid MIL-H-5606G], commonly referred to as &quot;5606&quot;. This is a red petroleum-based fluid, as opposed to the Glycol based automotive fluids, and the system is not compatible with any other fluid.<br /> <br /> If hydraulic fluid leaks have been found at the brake caliper on either main wheel, the likely causes are worn o-ring, pitted wheel cylinder or cracked wheel cylinder casting at the inlet or bleeder fitting.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft%20Wheel%20&amp;%20Brake%20Division/AWB%20Static%20Files%20for%20Literature/AWBTSG0001-7.pdf Cleveland Wheel and Brake Maintenance Manual] is available on-line. The [http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&amp;sid=794f31fd6027b03033374ec96690b9fe&amp;rgn=div8&amp;view=text&amp;node=14:1.0.1.3.20.0.363.10&amp;idno=14 FARs require] the use of the manufacturer's current maintenance instructions, and the Grumman maintenance manual gives very little detail about the wheel and brake system.<br /> <br /> == The Wheel Slave Cylinder ==<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> To remove the caliper the 1/4&quot; bolts that hold the outer brake pad retaining plate in place must be removed. The inlet line should then be removed by untorquing the [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an818.php AN 818-4D] line nut. The line nut should require no more than 1/8 turn with a wrench before being free enough to spin off with your fingers. If the threads require a wrench to loosen them further, careful inspection of the line nut and inlet fitting threads is in order.<br /> <br /> As soon as the line nut is loosened, 5606 fluid will begin leaking out. A small catch pan is a good idea to prevent a spill and an unsafe condition with a slippery floor. A well prepared mechanic will have an [http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=68/category_id=87/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd68.htm AN 806-4D] plug ready to seal the line and prevent losing all the fluid in that side of the brake system!<br /> <br /> With the brake line removed the caliper can be pulled inboard and removed from the mounting bracket. Exploded views of the caliper can be found in the [http://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft%20Wheel%20&amp;%20Brake%20Division/AWB%20Static%20Files%20for%20Literature/AWBPC0001.pdf Cleveland Wheel and Brake Parts Catalog] for easy reference to part numbers and assembly details.<br /> <br /> With the caliper off the mounting bracket, slide the inner brake pad and backing plate off the mounting pins and remove the piston. A common method is to wrap the caliper assembly in a rag and apply air pressure to the inlet fitting to drive the piston out of the bore. There is a small amount of fluid that remains in the caliper and eye protection is suggested to prevent a chemical irritation should the remaining fluid spray in the direction of your face.<br /> <br /> After the piston is removed, a thorough cleaning of the caliper housing and piston is next. A solvent rinse (mineral spirits or an automotive style &quot;brake cleaner&quot;) to degrease, followed by soap and water with a mild abrasive like Scotch-Brite to remove stubborn dirt and oxidation, completed by a fresh water rinse and air drying should be sufficient to allow a good inspection.<br /> <br /> Evidence of pitting in the caliper bore is quite common on older components, especially those that have been operated in a corrosive environment. If the pitting is very light, and only at the outer edges of the bore, it may not cause a leak under normal circumstances. The o-ring that seals the piston to the caliper bore is set back from the edge of the piston, so the actual seal takes place deeper in the bore. However as the brake pads and the rotor wear, the piston can move further out and reach a point where the o-ring may leak.<br /> <br /> The minimum thickness of the rotor and the minimum thickness of the brake pads are designed such that the piston will not travel too far out of the bore when the minimum thicknesses are reached, and the o-ring will still seal if the bore is in good shape. Allowing the brakes to deteriorate past the point of the recommended minimum thickness can cause the piston to move far enough that the o-ring pops out of the caliper bore, and all brake effectiveness is lost without warning.<br /> <br /> After cleaning and inspecting the caliper and piston, I suggest an acid etch and alodine, just like the pre-treatment of structural aluminum in preparation for painting. A coat of zinc chromate or an epoxy primer on the external surfaces, followed by a color coat to protect against future corrosion would be a good idea. The caliper has a data plate on it that identifies the manufacturer (Cleveland), the model and other info like the date of production (month and year) in most cases. If the data plate is missing or unreadable, then the part is technically unairworthy. The good news is, that if you contact Cleveland support at the number in the on line manuals, and you ask '''nicely''' for replacement data plates, they will send them to you AT NO CHARGE. The current production data plates are laser printed on a plastic based label, and just peel off and attach to a clean, smooth surface.<br /> <br /> After all the surface prep, primer and paint, the caliper is ready to assemble. Install a new O-ring. Its important to use the correct part number that is made of the right material, and not just some &quot;hardware store&quot; o-ring. The early planes use a 1.5&quot; piston and the later models use a 1.75&quot; piston. The Mil-Spec is an MS28775 in either [http://www.skygeek.com/mil-std-ms28775-222-o-ring.html -222] or [http://www.skygeek.com/mil-std-ms28775-224-o-ring.html -224]. It is important that the o-ring not be twisted in its groove. Lube it and the bore of the caliper with a generous amount of 5606 fluid, and insert the piston with a rotating motion. Once lined up correctly, it will slide into place with a quick motion and be ready to wipe off the excess fluid and install the assembly on the plane.<br /> <br /> Refer to the section on [http://www.bondline.org/index.php/%3D%3D_Fixing_soft_brakes_caused_by_fluid_leaks_and_air_in_the_system_%3D%3D bleeding the brakes] for instructions on how to purge the air from the system.<br /> <br /> == The Master Cylinders ==<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> On most Grummans there are 4 Master Cylinders, a pair for each pilot. They are plumbed such that the pilot's side master cylinder output in hooked to the co-pilot's side master cylinder inlet, and the co-pilot's side master cylinder output is connected to the brake caliper by flex and hard lines.<br /> <br /> This means that low fluid in the pilot's side master cylinder can cause a loss of brake effectiveness and a soft pedal, and the co-pilot's side brakes can continue to work.<br /> <br /> Removing the brake master cylinders requires disconnecting the flex line from the output, and on the co-pilot's side, also disconnecting the flex line to the input. The master cylinder must be disconnected from its bracket on the floor, and from the brake pedal. The installation hardware can vary from year model to year model, with some having Clevis Pins, some Clevis Bolts, and some AN3 bolts. In all cases the greatest difficulty is in reaching the hardware. The master cylinders are on the firewall side of the rudder pedals, so it's awkward to reach the hardware. Removing the rudder pedals is a simple matter of removing a cotter pin from the pedal hinge tube and sliding it out. With the pedals out of the way, there's much more room to get your hands onto the cylinders.<br /> <br /> Some [http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=68/category_id=87/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd68.htm AN806-4D] flare plugs are handy to seal the flex lines as they are disconnected. Unless the fluid has all been drained from the brake system, several ounces of 5606 fluid will leak out when the lines are disconnected.<br /> <br /> &lt;TO BE CONTINUED&gt;</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Engine_Baffles&diff=3815 2013-10-29T21:23:27Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div>The engine baffles are critical to proper operation of the engine. They provide the sides for the box that holds the cooling air, and they also direct the air around the cylinder fins to minimize hot spots.<br /> <br /> Its very common to see the metal portion of the baffles cracked and fretted from vibration, and to see the rubber seals hardened from heat and age, missing sections and replaced with the wrong types of material. The orange silicone rubber is the most popular replacement material, and its not really suitable for the job.<br /> <br /> The rubber baffle seal needs to be thin and flexible, and it should have some fiber reinforcement to prevent tearing. The orange silicone rubber is too thick (1/8&quot;), has no reinforcement, and tears easily.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> ===Baffle Seals for Sky-Tec Starters===<br /> <br /> When installing a lightweight starter such as the Sky-Tec, the front metal baffles on the 75 Traveler and all Cheetahs and Tigers must be trimmed to clear the different contour of the starter motor and solenoid.<br /> <br /> Here are some examples of the trimming:<br /> <br /> [[Image:Center-trim.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:LH-Skytec.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> This is a seal I added to decrease the air leakage around the starter.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Skytec-seal.jpg]]<br /> <br /> This is seal for the pilot's side of the starter, that allows one to clear out the baffle to a larger rectangle, and then rivet on a cover plate that can be trimmed to match the starter contour without multiple removals of the baffling. This is very similar to the design used by later American General and the Tiger LLC plane's baffles. It is also workable to install the add-on plate with sheet metal screws, rather than permanently attach it with rivets.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Skytec-seal_pilot-side.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> [Gil Alexander] The seal is a little harder to form on the outboard side of the starter due to the starter leads. One example of sealing is here. The baffle material is extended as much as possible over the top of the starter to get into the gaps created above the starter.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Sky-tec-gaps.jpg]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> ===Sealing Around Skytec 149-HT Starter===<br /> Here's an example of the seal around the Skytec 149-12HT, which is a little different than the PM/LS models. Here's a view<br /> of the rear of the starter. You can see a bead of RTV applied to the gap between the motor and the solenoid housing:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[File:Skytec-149-HT-rear.jpg|thumb|400px|left]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> Note that the body of the starter is on the outboard side of the unit, with the solenoid and electrical connections on the inboard side.<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> The outboard side is fairly easy to seal, with the body of the motor a 3-inch diameter cylinder. A 3 1/8 inch instrument panel punch would be<br /> perfect to get the desired cutout in the baffle. Otherwise, chop it out with tin snips as shown here:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Skytec-149-HT-front-outboard.jpg|400px]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> Add a seal that wraps the outside of the body of the motor. The piece at the upper left helps seal the gap between the starter and the engine case:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Skytec-149-HT-front-outboard-seal.jpg|400px]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> Sealing the inboard side of the 149-HT is trickier, due to the hexagonal shape of the solenoid body and dealing with the starter cable. Start with leaving a large enough gap to work with:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Skytec-149-HT-front-inboard.jpg|400px]] [[Image:Skytec-149-HT-front-inboard-gap.jpg|400px]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> Here's a template of the odd shape around the solenoid. It's a mirror of the cutout, so you have to flip it about the vertical axis to match the cutout:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Skytec-149-HT-rear-inboard-shape.jpg|thumb|x300px|left]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> This is what the resulting seal looks like. The piece on the bottom is notched to pass the starter cable through, and the piece on the top seals the gap between the solenoid and the engine case:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Skytec-149-HT-front-inboard-seal.jpg|400px]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> The installed seals look like this:<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> [[Image:Skytec-149-HT-front-inboard-finished.jpg|400px]]<br /> &lt;br /&gt;<br /> <br /> <br /> ===Baffle Attach Points===<br /> <br /> Also check all of the baffle attach points. This AA5B broken bracket was hard to see, but was obviously not doing it's job. It is attached to the baffles by the oil cooler and held by the upper left engine mount bolt. A previous repair was less than effective. New brackets are available at Fletchair.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Broken-baffle-bracket.JPG]]<br /> <br /> ==Cheetah Baffles - Part of my Hunt for High Oil Temperatures==<br /> I have a Cheetah that suffered from higher oil temperatures than I'm comfortable with (CHT's look OK) during the warmest summer months. Everything has been done to this engine to make it run warm (High Compression mod, LASAR system) so this is not a big surprise. But hearing that people fly these machines in Arizona in the summer and the fact that I'm a bit of a perfectionist...I wanted to see if there is anything I could do to lower the temps.<br /> <br /> In the course of chasing down the issue, (besides checking the oil cooler, vernatherm valve, and other system components) the old and ratty baffle seals were replaced under the supervision of one of the most Grumman knowledgeable shops around. After the seals were replaced, the following summer my temperatures were actually worse than the previous year. And thus began my education in the proper fit of baffle seals...<br /> <br /> ===Finding Problems===<br /> I started by simply taking a flashlight and looking into the cooling air intakes in the nose bowl. I found several places where the seals did not sit flush against the cowl. In one location the seal bowed enough to create a quarter sized hole. This occurred because in the replacement of the seals, the multiple separate pieces of seal material were replaced with a few single longer strips of seal material that would buckle when pressed against the cowl where they were supposed to seal. Where the seals along the back and sides overlapped, they were attached together in such a way as to pull them away from the cowl. So, I removed these attachments and determined where to cut slits in the seal material so it would sit flush.<br /> <br /> I then started looking around the nose bowl seals and found a number of locations where the seal fit was as poor as the seals against the cowl doors. I had to pull the cowl and hold the nose bowl in position as best I could (by holding it relative to the spinner/prop just as it looked when the cowl was attached) and inspect the seal fit. I used a marker to mark the locations where the seal did not fit well and made a number of additional slits in the ribbons of seal material. Often these slits were made where the contours of the cowl or nose bowl change. The seal near the landing light needed to be trimmed to fit the contour of the landing light recess in the nose bowl. There was also a location near the alternator where a longer strip of seal material was needed to close a hole caused by the additional distance between the baffle and the nose bowl in that area.<br /> <br /> After 20 or more new slits in the baffle seal material and a new piece near the alternator, I put things back together and used a combination of drop lights and flashlights to check how well the seals were seating. Everything looked good, so I reassembled the cowl, checked the baffles one more time, and waited for the warm summer days to return for the tests.<br /> <br /> ===Test Flight===<br /> Well, summer returned and I went on a test flight. The temps were lower...but only back to the point they were prior to replacing the seals. So, I continued my search. Off came the cowl and nose bowl and I found the seal around the starter (a location Bob mentioned above) was not that tight in spots and completely missing along the top of the starter (between the starter and the engine case) in what would equate to about a 1&quot; x 3&quot; hole. So, I constructed and installed a seal to close the hole. I also replaced the seal around the pipe that provides air to the muffler shroud as I determined the seal material there was the original and in bad shape. I then put everything back together and and performed a couple test flights. Things were looking better, but when the high temps of July and August hit, the oil temps wee still a bit high.<br /> <br /> ===Gathering Data===<br /> [[Image:Manometer.JPG|thumb|100px|right|Manometer]]Stumped, I decided to try collecting some figures on the cooling. I constructed a simple water manometer to determine the pressure differential between the high pressure and low pressure side of the baffles. After some searching around the internet, I found that for effective cooling you need a pressure difference of at least 6&quot; of water. We ran the tubing ends of the manometer from the cockpit out the canopy and in thru the oil door with one tube on each side of the baffle in the cowl. In flight we were able to determine that in cruise around 120 mph IAS the pressure difference was right around 6&quot; of water. In a 100 mph IAS climb, the pressure dropped to around 5&quot;. So, the numbers indicated that I still had some issues as I was just barely coming into an acceptable cooling pressure range in cruise.<br /> <br /> ===The latest (and hopefully last) find===<br /> So, my A&amp;P (who had been overseeing my work all along) and I tried to find any other possible problems. After a bunch of snooping around with flashlights and inspection mirrors, my A&amp;P was able to find another hole hiding in the seals. This hole was located just above the airbox and was caused by the fact that the standard width of the seal material sold in rolls is not wide enough to close a gap in that area. So, I obtained a larger piece of seal material (around 4.5&quot; wide, if memory serves), off came the cowl and nose bowl again, and replaced the pieces that were too short.<br /> <br /> ===Pictures of the Results===<br /> Below are several pictures of my baffle seals after the changes. Most of the slits you see were added as part of my attempts to improve the fit/seal. Sorry, I didn't take any before pictures, maybe I'll remember next time.<br /> [[Image:UpperLeftSeals11u.JPG|thumb|200px|left]]<br /> [[Image:UpperRightSeals11u.JPG|thumb|200px|none]]<br /> [[Image:LowerSeals11u.JPG|thumb|200px|left]]<br /> [[Image:LowerRightSeals11u.JPG|thumb|200px|none]]<br /> <br /> ===Conclusion (sort of)===<br /> Of course, by the time we found and fixed this last issue, the hot summer temperatures had given way to cooler ones of fall. The oil temperatures have looked good since the last fix, but I guess I won't know for sure if the problem is resolved until summer returns again. I'll probably try the manometer again to see what it says...when my mechanic and I get a chance. I'll keep you posted. In the meantime, I hope this information helps if you have a Cheetah experiencing similar issues.<br /> <br /> One last note. I was supplied the silicone type baffle seal material by the shop where the seals were initially replaced. I've found that this material isn't necessarily the best for seals as it is rather thick and does not &quot;set&quot; (retain a curved form) so you have to wrestle with it and be careful of the fit anytime you need to close the cowl or install the nose bowl.<br /> <br /> ==Cooling Outlet Ducts in Lower Cowl==<br /> [[Image:Tiger-sagging-outlet-duct.jpg|thumb|200px|left]]<br /> After the air has passed over the cylinders, it still needs to leave the cowl area. The pre-78 fibreglas ducts are somewhat heat sensitive, and will deform over time, reducing the area of the air outlet, as seen in this photo from Gil Alexander.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Skytec-149-HT-rear.jpg&diff=3814 2013-10-29T20:54:19Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Skytec-149-HT-rear-inboard-shape.jpg&diff=3813 2013-10-29T20:54:03Z

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Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Skytec-149-HT-front-outboard.jpg&diff=3812 2013-10-29T20:53:39Z

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Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Skytec-149-HT-front-outboard-seal.jpg&diff=3811 2013-10-29T20:53:24Z

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Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Skytec-149-HT-front-inboard.jpg&diff=3810 2013-10-29T20:53:00Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Skytec-149-HT-front-inboard-seal.jpg&diff=3809 2013-10-29T20:52:44Z

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Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Skytec-149-HT-front-inboard-gap.jpg&diff=3808 2013-10-29T20:52:18Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:Skytec-149-HT-front-inboard-finished.jpg&diff=3807 2013-10-29T20:48:30Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Engine_STCs&diff=3766 2012-12-23T06:53:37Z

<p>Markm: </p> <hr /> <div>Increasing the HP is a popular option among all brands. The manufacturer's often did this as a means of product expansion, starting with a low HP model and introducing higher HP versions as the model matured.<br /> <br /> The Grumman line is no exception. Starting with the 1969 model AA-1, the original 108 HP O-235-C2C was replaced on the AA-1C Lynx with the 115 HP O-235-L2C. The factory expanded the 2 place to a 4 place with the introduction of the Traveler in 1972, and upped the engine to a 150 HP O-320-E2G. 3 years later the Tiger was introduced with the 180 HP O-360-A4K.<br /> <br /> Owners in the field were often not content to wait for the factory to increase the HP on their favorite model, and developed a number of HP increasing engine swaps and tweaks to existing engines. The following is information about MULTIPLE STCs that can be installed on additional airplanes without FAA field approval. There are many field approved mods, or one-time STCs that can not be duplicated without FAA approval again. Those projects are interesting, but not included here.<br /> <br /> '''2 Place STCs'''<br /> <br /> One of the earliest such mods was Jimmy Collier's O-290/O-320 conversion for the AA-1x series, '''SA2477SW'''. This STC was subsequently sold to [http://www.fletchair.com/ FletchAir]. FletchAir also has a companion GW increase STC for planes that have been modified with their O-320 conversion STC, '''SA4106SW'''.<br /> <br /> Later [[User:Maynard_Crosby|Maynard Crosby]] received approval for a follow-on STC with some improvements, '''SA1208NW'''.<br /> <br /> Maynard also received approval to swap the Lynx prop, spinner, and oil cooler onto the earlier 2 place series for higher engine Redline and improved T/O and climb performance, '''SA2169NM'''.<br /> <br /> [http://airmodsnw.com/page/grumman-stcs Ken Blackman], as Maynard's ex-partner, duplicated the O-320 conversion effort with some additional changes to receive '''SA4387NM'''.<br /> <br /> Ken received approval to move the [http://www.sensenich.com/stc/am152pg3.htm &quot;Sparrow Hawk&quot;] high compression STC from Cessna 152s to the AA-1C Lynx, '''SA641NW'''.<br /> <br /> [http://precisionengine.home.mindspring.com/ Bill Scott] received approval for a common mod to the low compression O-235s that machined the case for larger through studs and installed higher compression pistons, essentially converting the O-235-C2C to a conical mount version of the O-235-L2C Lynx engine, '''SA00985CH'''.<br /> <br /> '''4 Place STCs'''<br /> <br /> By far the most popular mod to the 4 place is the [http://precisionengine.home.mindspring.com/ Bill Scott] High Compression conversion for the 150 HP Traveler and Cheetah engines. Bill adapted a popular mod that was used on Cessna, Piper, and Beech trainers to the Traveler and Cheetah engine, and received the airframe and engine STCs, '''SE683NE, SA682NE'''. The basis for this STC is installation of the Lycoming 75089 piston as used in the O-320 B and D series engines that are rated at 160 HP. Due to lack of testing for EPA noise requirements, the HC STC limits the Redline RPM to 2650, which according to the Lycoming Engine Operator's Handbook for the High Compression O-320 series is equal to 157 HP, and it is not technically correct to call this an 160 HP STC.<br /> <br /> [[User:Maynard_Crosby|Maynard Crosby]] received approval for an installation of the Tiger O-360-A4K in Cheetah and Traveler airframes, effectively converting the Cheetah to a Tiger, though the Traveler became a &quot;Super Traveler&quot; with the limitations in fuel capacity and CG limits from the smaller tail.<br /> <br /> [[User:Peter_Otten|Peter Otten]] received '''SA5452NM''' to install the 200 HP IO-360-C1C6 and Hartzell C/S prop from a Piper Arrow onto a Cheetah. As part of the conversion, the option of increasing the GW by replacing the center spar with a Tiger part allowed recovery of the UL lost with the change in engine and prop weights. After years of keeping the multiple STC unavailable to the public, Peter sold the rights to FletchAir, and they eventually sold the rights to [[User:Scott_Jernigan|Scott Jernigan]], who re-engineered the drawings and coined the term &quot;Hyper-Cheetah&quot;, saying that if the 180 HP Tigerization made a Super Cheetah, the next higher superlative would be &quot;Hyper&quot;, which coincided with his [http://www.hyperdynesystems.com Hyperdyne Systems] business name.<br /> <br /> [[User:John_Coze|John Coze]] received approval to install a 260 HP IO-540-D4A5 engine and Hartzell C/S prop on his Cheetah, '''SA4966NM'''.<br /> <br /> There are many other one-off conversions with 4 and 6 cylinder engines installed on the Cheetah/Tiger airframe, but none are multiple STCs or available to the public at this time.</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Brake_Master_and_Slave_Cylinders&diff=3719 2012-09-07T00:59:44Z

<p>Markm: /* Introduction */</p> <hr /> <div>__TOC__<br /> <br /> == Introduction ==<br /> <br /> Properly maintaining the brake system on Grumman American aircraft is extremely important because the brakes are the only way to steer the plane on the ground at low speeds where the rudder is ineffective.<br /> <br /> The hydraulic brakes use a [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php Mil Spec fluid MIL-H-5606G], commonly referred to as &quot;5606&quot;. This is a red petroleum-based fluid, as opposed to the Glycol based automotive fluids, and the system is not compatible with any other fluid.<br /> <br /> If hydraulic fluid leaks have been found at the brake caliper on either main wheel, the likely causes are worn o-ring, pitted wheel cylinder or cracked wheel cylinder casting at the inlet or bleeder fitting.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft%20Wheel%20&amp;%20Brake%20Division/AWB%20Static%20Files%20for%20Literature/AWBTSG0001-7.pdf Cleveland Wheel and Brake Maintenance Manual] is available on-line. The [http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&amp;sid=794f31fd6027b03033374ec96690b9fe&amp;rgn=div8&amp;view=text&amp;node=14:1.0.1.3.20.0.363.10&amp;idno=14 FARs require] the use of the manufacturer's current maintenance instructions, and the Grumman maintenance manual gives very little detail about the wheel and brake system.<br /> <br /> == The Wheel Slave Cylinder ==<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> To remove the caliper the 1/4&quot; bolts that hold the outer brake pad retaining plate in place must be removed. The inlet line should then be removed by untorquing the [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an818.php AN 818-4D] line nut. The line nut should require no more than 1/8 turn with a wrench before being free enough to spin off with your fingers. If the threads require a wrench to loosen them further, careful inspection of the line nut and inlet fitting threads is in order.<br /> <br /> As soon as the line nut is loosened, 5606 fluid will begin leaking out. A small catch pan is a good idea to prevent a spill and an unsafe condition with a slippery floor. A well prepared mechanic will have an [http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=68/category_id=87/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd68.htm AN 806-4D] plug ready to seal the line and prevent losing all the fluid in that side of the brake system!<br /> <br /> With the brake line removed the caliper can be pulled inboard and removed from the mounting bracket. Exploded views of the caliper can be found in the [http://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft%20Wheel%20&amp;%20Brake%20Division/AWB%20Static%20Files%20for%20Literature/AWBPC0001.pdf Cleveland Wheel and Brake Parts Catalog] for easy reference to part numbers and assembly details.<br /> <br /> With the caliper off the mounting bracket, slide the inner brake pad and backing plate off the mounting pins and remove the piston. A common method is to wrap the caliper assembly in a rag and apply air pressure to the inlet fitting to drive the piston out of the bore. There is a small amount of fluid that remains in the caliper and eye protection is suggested to prevent a chemical irritation should the remaining fluid spray in the direction of your face.<br /> <br /> After the piston is removed, a thorough cleaning of the caliper housing and piston is next. A solvent rinse (mineral spirits or an automotive style &quot;brake cleaner&quot;) to degrease, followed by soap and water with a mild abrasive like Scotch-Brite to remove stubborn dirt and oxidation, completed by a fresh water rinse and air drying should be sufficient to allow a good inspection.<br /> <br /> Evidence of pitting in the caliper bore is quite common on older components, especially those that have been operated in a corrosive environment. If the pitting is very light, and only at the outer edges of the bore, it may not cause a leak under normal circumstances. The o-ring that seals the piston to the caliper bore is set back from the edge of the piston, so the actual seal takes place deeper in the bore. However as the brake pads and the rotor wear, the piston can move further out and reach a point where the o-ring may leak.<br /> <br /> The minimum thickness of the rotor and the minimum thickness of the brake pads are designed such that the piston will not travel too far out of the bore when the minimum thicknesses are reached, and the o-ring will still seal if the bore is in good shape. Allowing the brakes to deteriorate past the point of the recommended minimum thickness can cause the piston to move far enough that the o-ring pops out of the caliper bore, and all brake effectiveness is lost without warning.<br /> <br /> After cleaning and inspecting the caliper and piston, I suggest an acid etch and alodine, just like the pre-treatment of structural aluminum in preparation for painting. A coat of zinc chromate or an epoxy primer on the external surfaces, followed by a color coat to protect against future corrosion would be a good idea. The caliper has a data plate on it that identifies the manufacturer (Cleveland), the model and other info like the date of production (month and year) in most cases. If the data plate is missing or unreadable, then the part is technically unairworthy. The good news is, that if you contact Cleveland support at the number in the on line manuals, and you ask '''nicely''' for replacement data plates, they will send them to you AT NO CHARGE. The current production data plates are laser printed on a plastic based label, and just peel off and attach to a clean, smooth surface.<br /> <br /> After all the surface prep, primer and paint, the caliper is ready to assemble. Install a new O-ring. Its important to use the correct part number that is made of the right material, and not just some &quot;hardware store&quot; o-ring. The early planes use a 1.5&quot; piston and the later models use a 2&quot; piston. The Mil-Spec is an MS28775 in either [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=6320~subid=1689/index.html?PHPSESSID=544f063ebd63b7bfa3ced8221afb67b4 -222] or [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=6321~subid=1689/index.html -224]. It is important that the o-ring not be twisted in its groove. Lube it and the bore of the caliper with a generous amount of 5606 fluid, and insert the piston with a rotating motion. Once lined up correctly, it will slide into place with a quick motion and be ready to wipe off the excess fluid and install the assembly on the plane.<br /> <br /> Refer to the section on [http://www.bondline.org/index.php/%3D%3D_Fixing_soft_brakes_caused_by_fluid_leaks_and_air_in_the_system_%3D%3D bleeding the brakes] for instructions on how to purge the air from the system.<br /> <br /> == The Master Cylinders ==<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> On most Grummans there are 4 Master Cylinders, a pair for each pilot. They are plumbed such that the pilot's side master cylinder output in hooked to the co-pilot's side master cylinder inlet, and the co-pilot's side master cylinder output is connected to the brake caliper by flex and hard lines.<br /> <br /> This means that low fluid in the pilot's side master cylinder can cause a loss of brake effectiveness and a soft pedal, and the co-pilot's side brakes can continue to work.<br /> <br /> Removing the brake master cylinders requires disconnecting the flex line from the output, and on the co-pilot's side, also disconnecting the flex line to the input. The master cylinder must be disconnected from its bracket on the floor, and from the brake pedal. The installation hardware can vary from year model to year model, with some having Clevis Pins, some Clevis Bolts, and some AN3 bolts. In all cases the greatest difficulty is in reaching the hardware. The master cylinders are on the firewall side of the rudder pedals, so its awkward to reach the hardware.<br /> <br /> Some [http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=68/category_id=87/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd68.htm AN806-4D] flare plugs are handy to seal the flex lines as they are disconnected. Unless the fluid has all been drained from the brake system, several ounces of 5606 fluid will leak out when the lines are disconnected.<br /> <br /> &lt;TO BE CONTINUED&gt;</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Brake_Master_and_Slave_Cylinders&diff=3718 2012-09-06T23:13:13Z

<p>Markm: Updated links to AN806-4D flare plugs</p> <hr /> <div>__TOC__<br /> <br /> == Introduction ==<br /> <br /> Properly maintaining the brake system on Grumman American aircraft is extremely important because the brakes are the only way to steer the plane on the ground at low speeds where the rudder is ineffective.<br /> <br /> The hydraulic brakes use a [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php Mil Spec fluid MIL-H-5606G], commonly referred to as &quot;5606&quot;. This is a red petroleum-based fluid, as opposed to the Glycol based automotive fluids, and the system is not compatible with any other fluid.<br /> <br /> If hydraulic fluid leaks have been found at the brake caliper on either main wheel, the likely causes are worn o-ring, pitted wheel cylinder or cracked wheel cylinder casting at the inlet or bleeder fitting.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.parker.com//literature/Literature%20Files/ag/Aerospace%20Literature/maincov.pdf Cleveland Wheel and Brake Maintenance Manual] is available on-line. The [http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr&amp;sid=794f31fd6027b03033374ec96690b9fe&amp;rgn=div8&amp;view=text&amp;node=14:1.0.1.3.20.0.363.10&amp;idno=14 FARs require] the use of the manufacturer's current maintenance instructions, and the Grumman maintenance manual gives very little detail about the wheel and brake system.<br /> <br /> == The Wheel Slave Cylinder ==<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> To remove the caliper the 1/4&quot; bolts that hold the outer brake pad retaining plate in place must be removed. The inlet line should then be removed by untorquing the [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an818.php AN 818-4D] line nut. The line nut should require no more than 1/8 turn with a wrench before being free enough to spin off with your fingers. If the threads require a wrench to loosen them further, careful inspection of the line nut and inlet fitting threads is in order.<br /> <br /> As soon as the line nut is loosened, 5606 fluid will begin leaking out. A small catch pan is a good idea to prevent a spill and an unsafe condition with a slippery floor. A well prepared mechanic will have an [http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=68/category_id=87/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd68.htm AN 806-4D] plug ready to seal the line and prevent losing all the fluid in that side of the brake system!<br /> <br /> With the brake line removed the caliper can be pulled inboard and removed from the mounting bracket. Exploded views of the caliper can be found in the [http://www.parker.com/literature/Aircraft%20Wheel%20&amp;%20Brake%20Division/AWB%20Static%20Files%20for%20Literature/AWBPC0001.pdf Cleveland Wheel and Brake Parts Catalog] for easy reference to part numbers and assembly details.<br /> <br /> With the caliper off the mounting bracket, slide the inner brake pad and backing plate off the mounting pins and remove the piston. A common method is to wrap the caliper assembly in a rag and apply air pressure to the inlet fitting to drive the piston out of the bore. There is a small amount of fluid that remains in the caliper and eye protection is suggested to prevent a chemical irritation should the remaining fluid spray in the direction of your face.<br /> <br /> After the piston is removed, a thorough cleaning of the caliper housing and piston is next. A solvent rinse (mineral spirits or an automotive style &quot;brake cleaner&quot;) to degrease, followed by soap and water with a mild abrasive like Scotch-Brite to remove stubborn dirt and oxidation, completed by a fresh water rinse and air drying should be sufficient to allow a good inspection.<br /> <br /> Evidence of pitting in the caliper bore is quite common on older components, especially those that have been operated in a corrosive environment. If the pitting is very light, and only at the outer edges of the bore, it may not cause a leak under normal circumstances. The o-ring that seals the piston to the caliper bore is set back from the edge of the piston, so the actual seal takes place deeper in the bore. However as the brake pads and the rotor wear, the piston can move further out and reach a point where the o-ring may leak.<br /> <br /> The minimum thickness of the rotor and the minimum thickness of the brake pads are designed such that the piston will not travel too far out of the bore when the minimum thicknesses are reached, and the o-ring will still seal if the bore is in good shape. Allowing the brakes to deteriorate past the point of the recommended minimum thickness can cause the piston to move far enough that the o-ring pops out of the caliper bore, and all brake effectiveness is lost without warning.<br /> <br /> After cleaning and inspecting the caliper and piston, I suggest an acid etch and alodine, just like the pre-treatment of structural aluminum in preparation for painting. A coat of zinc chromate or an epoxy primer on the external surfaces, followed by a color coat to protect against future corrosion would be a good idea. The caliper has a data plate on it that identifies the manufacturer (Cleveland), the model and other info like the date of production (month and year) in most cases. If the data plate is missing or unreadable, then the part is technically unairworthy. The good news is, that if you contact Cleveland support at the number in the on line manuals, and you ask '''nicely''' for replacement data plates, they will send them to you AT NO CHARGE. The current production data plates are laser printed on a plastic based label, and just peel off and attach to a clean, smooth surface.<br /> <br /> After all the surface prep, primer and paint, the caliper is ready to assemble. Install a new O-ring. Its important to use the correct part number that is made of the right material, and not just some &quot;hardware store&quot; o-ring. The early planes use a 1.5&quot; piston and the later models use a 2&quot; piston. The Mil-Spec is an MS28775 in either [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=6320~subid=1689/index.html?PHPSESSID=544f063ebd63b7bfa3ced8221afb67b4 -222] or [http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=6321~subid=1689/index.html -224]. It is important that the o-ring not be twisted in its groove. Lube it and the bore of the caliper with a generous amount of 5606 fluid, and insert the piston with a rotating motion. Once lined up correctly, it will slide into place with a quick motion and be ready to wipe off the excess fluid and install the assembly on the plane.<br /> <br /> Refer to the section on [http://www.bondline.org/index.php/%3D%3D_Fixing_soft_brakes_caused_by_fluid_leaks_and_air_in_the_system_%3D%3D bleeding the brakes] for instructions on how to purge the air from the system.<br /> <br /> == The Master Cylinders ==<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> On most Grummans there are 4 Master Cylinders, a pair for each pilot. They are plumbed such that the pilot's side master cylinder output in hooked to the co-pilot's side master cylinder inlet, and the co-pilot's side master cylinder output is connected to the brake caliper by flex and hard lines.<br /> <br /> This means that low fluid in the pilot's side master cylinder can cause a loss of brake effectiveness and a soft pedal, and the co-pilot's side brakes can continue to work.<br /> <br /> Removing the brake master cylinders requires disconnecting the flex line from the output, and on the co-pilot's side, also disconnecting the flex line to the input. The master cylinder must be disconnected from its bracket on the floor, and from the brake pedal. The installation hardware can vary from year model to year model, with some having Clevis Pins, some Clevis Bolts, and some AN3 bolts. In all cases the greatest difficulty is in reaching the hardware. The master cylinders are on the firewall side of the rudder pedals, so its awkward to reach the hardware.<br /> <br /> Some [http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=68/category_id=87/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd68.htm AN806-4D] flare plugs are handy to seal the flex lines as they are disconnected. Unless the fluid has all been drained from the brake system, several ounces of 5606 fluid will leak out when the lines are disconnected.<br /> <br /> &lt;TO BE CONTINUED&gt;</div>

Markm https://bondline.org/index.php?title=How_to_put_air_in_the_tire_with_wheel_pants&diff=3387 2009-09-10T00:41:00Z

<p>Markm: typo</p> <hr /> <div>[[Image:tire pressure 005.jpg|200px|thumb|right|the 45 degree angle is important]]<br /> <br /> == Tools Needed ==<br /> * source of compressed air<br /> * 45 degree tire chuck<br /> * 45 degree air pressure gauge<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:tire pressure 002.jpg|200px|thumb|right|note the paint mark on the tire]]<br /> [[Image:tire pressure 001a.jpg|200px|thumb|left|]]<br /> <br /> Next question - Where is the tire valve? If you don't have the valve marked in some way you have to bend down and feel for the valve. Can't feel it, get up reposition the plane, bend down check again, etc until you find it. This exercise is repeated for each tire!<br /> <br /> I have marked the location of the tire valves with red paint. On the main tires the mark is on the inside of the tire so that it can be seen from the nose of the plane. On the nose tire the mark is directly below the valve.<br /> [[Image:tire pressurea.jpg|200px|thumb|left|]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Main Wheels ==<br /> [[Image:tire pressure 008.jpg|200px|thumb|right|]]<br /> [[Image:tire pressure 007.jpg|200px|thumb|left|the 45 angle and the 7:00 position line up well]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Position the plane so that the copilot side tire has the valve at the 7:00 position. Reach up, remove the valve stem cap and gently pull down (a small amount) on the tire valve. You should then be able to place the air chuck or pressure gauge on the tip. Add or release air as needed to the get the correct tire pressure. Pulling the valve stem down a little won't hurt it, especially if you change tubes with each tire.<br /> <br /> For the pilot side position the wheel so that the valve is at 5:00 and repeat above. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:tire pressure 010.jpg|200px|thumb|left|pulling the stem a small amount won't hurt it]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> ==Nose Wheel==<br /> [[Image:tire pressure 019.jpg|200px|thumb|right|valve stem just inside the wheel pant]]<br /> [[Image:tire pressure 017.jpg|200px|thumb|left|again the 45 degree angle makes a good fit]]<br /> The nose wheel is in my opinion the easiest. Just position the plane so that the nose wheel valve is at the bottom or 6:00 position. The nose wheel is a different size and has a different valve stem compared to the main wheels. Its valve stem is metal and comes out of the wheel at a 90 degree right angle. Just remove the valve stem cap and add or release air as needed to obtain the desired tire pressure.<br /> <br /> Replace the valve cap and your done. It really isn't difficult. It does require that you get on your hands and knees so a clean, paved ramp/hangar floor is nice.</div>

Markm
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