Bondline - User contributions [en]

Maintenance

2010-11-10T15:55:57Z

Hortonjf:

We've organized this section to mirror the headings in the factory maintenance manual. Note that the section headings are "clickable" and take you to summary pages for that section. Links are repeated on those summary pages.

== [[Maintenance: General|General]] ==

* Required Information and Documentation
* Logbooks and Recording

== [[Servicing]] ==

* Inspections
* Oil Changes
* Tire Air Pressure
* Grease and Fluids references

== [[Airframe]] ==

* Disassembly
* Dorsal Fin Replacement
* Headliner
* Rear and Canopy Headliner
* Interior_Trim|Interior
* Whelen Strobe Installation Inside the Red Rudder Cap
* Window_Replacement|Windows
* Replacement Parts

== [[Landing Gear]] ==

* Brake System
* Nose Strut
* Wheels
* Main Landing Gear Attach Bolts
* Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

== [[Control Systems]] ==

* Rigging
* Stall Warning System

== [[Powerplant]] ==

* Engine Baffles
* Engine Swaps and Mods
* Cylinders
* Oil and Filter
* Overhaul and field service
* TBO considerations
* Valve Wobble Testing
* Vacuum Pump

== [[Propeller]] ==

* Back Plate

== [[Fuel System]] ==

* Fuel Tank Leaks
* Auxiliary Fuel Tank
* Fuel Level Transmitter
* Fuel Tank Drains

== [[Instrumentation]] ==

* Installing Mitchell Gauges

== [[Structural Repair]] ==

* An Example Repair
* Lower Cowling Split
* Repair of Debonding
* Tail Tiedown Repair

== [[Preparations for Painting|Painting]] ==

* Preparations for Painting

== [[Electrical Systems]] ==

* Charging Systems
* Panel Switches

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:51:23Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great. I didnt have to trim anything on the new pant.

[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. Note: The outside bracket is made of two pieces that will seperate once the rivets are removed. Mark them so you know how they go back together. I used a spring loaded center punch to dimple the top edge of each one. [[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|Right angle drill is essential to back drill the bracket holes.]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|Predilled holes in the new shell matched the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts.]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on the outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject, that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt. I did not transfer the lead weight to the new shell. The old ABS wheel pant with hardware and weight weighs 5.17 lbs. The new fiberglass pant with hardware but without the weight weighs 5.15 lbs.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:50:13Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great. I didnt have to trim anything on the new pant.
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. Note: The outside bracket is made of two pieces that will seperate once the rivets are removed. Mark them so you know how they go back together. I used a spring loaded center punch to dimple the top edge of each one. [[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|Right angle drill is essential to back drill the bracket holes.]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|Predilled holes in the new shell matched the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts.]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on the outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject, that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt. I did not transfer the lead weight to the new shell. The old ABS wheel pant with hardware and weight weighs 5.17 lbs. The new fiberglass pant with hardware but without the weight weighs 5.15 lbs.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:49:34Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great. I didnt have to trim anything on the new pant.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. Note: The outside bracket is made of two pieces that will seperate once the rivets are removed. Mark them so you know how they go back together. I used a spring loaded center punch to dimple the top edge of each one. [[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|Right angle drill is essential to back drill the bracket holes.]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|Predilled holes in the new shell matched the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts.]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on the outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject, that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt. I did not transfer the lead weight to the new shell. The old ABS wheel pant with hardware and weight weighs 5.17 lbs. The new fiberglass pant with hardware but without the weight weighs 5.15 lbs.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:49:02Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great. I didnt have to trim anything on the new pant.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. Note: The outside bracket is made of two pieces that will seperate once the rivets are removed. Mark them so you how they go back together. I used a spring loaded center punch to dimple the top edge of each one. [[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|Right angle drill is essential to back drill the bracket holes.]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|Predilled holes in the new shell matched the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts.]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on the outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject, that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt. I did not transfer the lead weight to the new shell. The old ABS wheel pant with hardware and weight weighs 5.17 lbs. The new fiberglass pant with hardware but without the weight weighs 5.15 lbs.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:47:37Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great. I didnt have to trim anything on the new pant.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. Note: The outside bracket is made of two pieces that will seperate once the rivets are removed. Mark them so you how they go back together. I used a spring loaded center punch to dimple the top edge of each one. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|Right angle drill is essential to back drill the bracket holes.]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|Predilled holes in the new shell matched the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts.]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on the outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject, that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt. I did not transfer the lead weight to the new shell. The old ABS wheel pant with hardware and weight weighs 5.17 lbs. The new fiberglass pant with hardware but without the weight weighs 5.15 lbs.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:29:42Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great. I didnt have to trim anything on the new pant.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|Right angle drill is essential to back drill the bracket holes.]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|Predilled holes in the new shell matched the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts.]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on the outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject, that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt. I did not transfer the lead weight to the new shell. The old ABS wheel pant with hardware and weight weighs 5.17 lbs. The new fiberglass pant with hardware but without the weight weighs 5.15 lbs.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:23:15Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great. I didnt have to trim anything on the new pant.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|Right angle drill is essential to back drill the bracket holes.]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|Predilled holes in the new shell matched the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts.]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on the outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:21:01Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great. I didnt have to trim anything on the new pant.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|Right angle drill is essential to back drill the bracket holes.]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|Predilled holes in the new shell matched the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts.]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:18:01Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|Right angle drill is essential to back drill the bracket holes.]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|Predilled holes in the new shell matched the holes in the bracket for the mounting bolts.]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:16:16Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|Right angle drill is essential to back drill the bracket holes.]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:15:33Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|The compound curves in the hardware complicate their reproduction.]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:13:57Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|12 nutplates 2 rivets per nutplate....]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:11:53Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|I think there are 12 nutplates.]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:10:10Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant011.jpg|left|thumbnail|I think there are 12 nutplates.|]][[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|right|thumbnail|Rubber hole plug works well.|]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|left|thumbnail|Finished|]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt.

File:Wheel pant011.jpg

2010-11-10T15:06:20Z

Hortonjf:

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:05:57Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

[[Image:wheel_pant017.jpg|left|thumbnail|]][[Image:wheel_pant015.jpg|right|thumbnail|]]
Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T15:03:30Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]] [[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|]] [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The predrilled holes for the bolts that are used to attach the pant from the brake side matched my bracket almost perffectly. There were 4 alignment holes in the shell for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Since I didnt want the shell to sit crooked I had to do a test fit. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|right|thumbnail|Test fit, Im happy.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

Next was actually riveting the brackets in place. The original pants had both rivets and adhesive caulk to attach the brackets. This helped spread the load from the shell to the bracket so that it wasnt just held by the rivets. Proseal 3204B-2 has been used before and I think 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive/Sealant would also work well in this situation. Apply the adhesive, clecos, clean up the stuff that is squeezed out and set the rivets. Then I just had to locate, drill, countersink and rivet the numerous nutplates for the brake cover.

Painting, a whole different Bondline subject that I will leave to the experts, is next. In my case it takes me longer to paint the pant than to do everything else. I use a Motorola radio hole plug to cover the hole for the attaching bolt.

File:Wheel pant017.jpg

2010-11-10T14:58:35Z

Hortonjf:

File:Wheel pant015.jpg

2010-11-10T14:58:16Z

Hortonjf:

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T14:57:51Z

Hortonjf:

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T14:35:32Z

Hortonjf:

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T14:28:52Z

Hortonjf:

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T14:26:09Z

Hortonjf:

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T14:23:18Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
[[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]]After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

[[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]] Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The alignment holes for the inside bracket were a great fit. There were 4 alignment holes for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|]]Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|left|thumbnail|Good fit.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. [[Image:wheel_pant012.jpg|right|thumbnail|]]Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T14:19:49Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. The fiberglass shells are excellent reproductions. [[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]]There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder.[[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]] Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The alignment holes for the inside bracket were a great fit. There were 4 alignment holes for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. [[Image:wheel_pant008.jpg|right|thumbnail|]]Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|left|thumbnail|Good fit.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.
To be continued.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T14:18:05Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. The fiberglass shells are excellent reproductions. [[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]]There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder.[[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]] Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The alignment holes for the inside bracket were a great fit. There were 4 alignment holes for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. [[Image:wheel_pant009.jpg|left|thumbnail|Good fit.]]As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.
To be continued.

File:Wheel pant012.jpg

2010-11-10T14:16:26Z

Hortonjf:

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T14:12:54Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. The fiberglass shells are excellent reproductions. [[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]]There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder.[[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]] Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.[[Image:wheel_pant004.jpg|left|thumbnail|]]

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The alignment holes for the inside bracket were a great fit. There were 4 alignment holes for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.
To be continued.

File:Wheel pant009.jpg

2010-11-10T14:11:22Z

Hortonjf:

File:Wheel pant008.jpg

2010-11-10T14:10:51Z

Hortonjf:

File:Wheel pant004.jpg

2010-11-10T14:10:10Z

Hortonjf:

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T14:09:05Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. The fiberglass shells are excellent reproductions. [[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]]There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder.[[Image:wheel_pant003.jpg|right|thumbnail|The caulk/adhesive helps to bind the bracket to the shell.]] Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The alignment holes for the inside bracket were a great fit. There were 4 alignment holes for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.
To be continued.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-10T14:05:48Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. The fiberglass shells are excellent reproductions. [[Image:wheel_pant_001_(Small).jpg|left|thumbnail|Excellent reproductions.]]There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The alignment holes for the inside bracket were a great fit. There were 4 alignment holes for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.
To be continued.

File:Wheel pant003.jpg

2010-11-10T14:01:22Z

Hortonjf:

File:Wheel pant 001 (Small).jpg

2010-11-10T13:58:26Z

Hortonjf: New fiberglass shell

New fiberglass shell

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-08T23:41:26Z

Hortonjf:

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. The fiberglass shells are excellent reproductions. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The alignment holes for the inside bracket were a great fit. There were 4 alignment holes for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.
To be continued.

Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement

2010-11-08T23:40:13Z

Hortonjf: Created page with '==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells== After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered …'

==Replacing the ABS plastic wheel pants with new fiberglass shells==
After several crack repairs to the original ABS wheel pants I finally took Bob Steward's advance and ordered replacement fiberglass shells from Fletchair. The fiberglass shells are excellent reproductions. There are many alignment holes predrilled and the fit and finish is great.

Initial work is the removal of the old mounting hardware from the ABS shell. The brackets are both riveted and glued/bonded with some type of caulk adhesive. I ground the heads off the rivets in order to not enlarge the bracket holes by drilling. This was easy since I didnt care if the old shell was damaged by the grinder. Using a thin putty knife I cut the caulk adhesive and was able to seperate the brackets from the ABS shell. After cleaning, priming and painting the brackets were ready for installation.

Attaching the brackets to the new shells consisted of figuring out which alignment holes worked best for my plane. The alignment holes for the inside bracket were a great fit. There were 4 alignment holes for the outside bracket. Only two of these aligned with the holes in my bracket. It was either the top holes or the bottom holes. Using clecos I assembled the brackets to the pant and mounted it to the plane to see how it looked. As it turned out I used the top two holes and glassed in the bottom two holes. Then I mounted both brackets using clecos and backdrilled the remaining holes in my brackets. I countersunk the rivets on outside of the wheel pant for AN426 rivets and used AN470 for the inside of the pant since that area would be covered by the brake cover.

Landing Gear

2010-11-08T23:06:56Z

Hortonjf:

* [[Brake System]]

* [[MLG Attach Bolts]]

* [[Nose Strut]]

* [[Wheels]]

* [[Wheel Pants - Shell Replacement]]

Repair of Debonding

2009-11-18T14:08:15Z

Hortonjf:

Aside from problems with the infamous purple glue, used in late '74 through early '76 models, that resulted in [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/0/15ABBB4154F287DA86256A38005E36C8?OpenDocument AD 76-17-03], there can be random debonding on the rest of the fleet. Often this is the result of corrosion.

[[Image:Corrosion_under_bonds.jpg]] [[Image:corrosion2.jpg]]

The staggered holes in the bonded area were drilled to allow the skin and ribs to be clecoed together in the same alignment that they were bonded, before the extent of the corrosion was determined. This created a "matched hole tooling" effect, much like [http://vansaircraft.com/public/kit-std.htm Van's RV series] uses on their airframes to reduce the amount of jigging that must be done to assemble the planes.

The factory provided data to be used in doing repairs of all types of debonding with the publication of Service Kit 125A. The short version is that nearly any debonding can be repaired with this data. That is good news for owners and mechanics as we attempt to preserve the aging fleet and repair various damage that is unrelated to the spontaneous debonding. The factory data doesn't speak to HOW or WHY the debonding occurred, so that means that if we intentionally debond the parts to replace a corroded or dented part, we are still allowed to use the SK-125A methods to install the replacement parts.

SK-125A calls out an "inhibited poly-sulfide sealant", which is the same Mil-Spec as high adhesion fuel tank sealant, and [http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecId=3466 NAS1097] reduced head rivets to replace the original factory bond. Cleaning of the surfaces to be re-bonded is also explained, and care must be taken not to introduce contaminants that might initiate future corrosion.

[[Image:Debonded elevator 001 (Small).jpg|200px|thumb|left|Elevator Debonding]]

[[Image:Debonded elevator 3 (Small).jpg|200px|thumb|right]]

==Grumman American Service Kit No. 125A==

Thanks to the support and generosity of FletchAir under license from Tiger LLC a copy of SK125A is available. Just click on the link
[[Media:SK-125A Grumman .pdf|SK125A]].

Repair of Debonding

2009-11-18T14:04:46Z

Hortonjf:

Repair of Debonding

2009-11-18T14:00:07Z

Hortonjf:

Aside from problems with the infamous purple glue, used in late '74 through early '76 models, that resulted in [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/0/15ABBB4154F287DA86256A38005E36C8?OpenDocument AD 76-17-03], there can be random debonding on the rest of the fleet. Often this is the result of corrosion.

[[Image:Corrosion_under_bonds.jpg]] [[Image:corrosion2.jpg]]

The staggered holes in the bonded area were drilled to allow the skin and ribs to be clecoed together in the same alignment that they were bonded, before the extent of the corrosion was determined. This created a "matched hole tooling" effect, much like [http://vansaircraft.com/public/kit-std.htm Van's RV series] uses on their airframes to reduce the amount of jigging that must be done to assemble the planes.

The factory provided data to be used in doing repairs of all types of debonding with the publication of Service Kit 125A. The short version is that nearly any debonding can be repaired with this data. That is good news for owners and mechanics as we attempt to preserve the aging fleet and repair various damage that is unrelated to the spontaneous debonding. The factory data doesn't speak to HOW or WHY the debonding occurred, so that means that if we intentionally debond the parts to replace a corroded or dented part, we are still allowed to use the SK-125A methods to install the replacement parts.

SK-125A calls out an "inhibited poly-sulfide sealant", which is the same Mil-Spec as high adhesion fuel tank sealant, and [http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecId=3466 NAS1097] reduced head rivets to replace the original factory bond. Cleaning of the surfaces to be re-bonded is also explained, and care must be taken not to introduce contaminants that might initiate future corrosion.

[[Image:Debonded elevator 001 (Small).jpg]]

[[Image:Debonded elevator 3 (Small).jpg]]

==Grumman American Service Kit No. 125A==

Thanks to the support and generosity of FletchAir under license of from Tiger LLC a copy of SK125A is available
[[Media:SK-125A Grumman.pdf|SK125A]].

Repair of Debonding

2009-11-18T13:56:57Z

Hortonjf:

Aside from problems with the infamous purple glue, used in late '74 through early '76 models, that resulted in [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/0/15ABBB4154F287DA86256A38005E36C8?OpenDocument AD 76-17-03], there can be random debonding on the rest of the fleet. Often this is the result of corrosion.

[[Image:Corrosion_under_bonds.jpg]] [[Image:corrosion2.jpg]]

The staggered holes in the bonded area were drilled to allow the skin and ribs to be clecoed together in the same alignment that they were bonded, before the extent of the corrosion was determined. This created a "matched hole tooling" effect, much like [http://vansaircraft.com/public/kit-std.htm Van's RV series] uses on their airframes to reduce the amount of jigging that must be done to assemble the planes.

The factory provided data to be used in doing repairs of all types of debonding with the publication of Service Kit 125A. The short version is that nearly any debonding can be repaired with this data. That is good news for owners and mechanics as we attempt to preserve the aging fleet and repair various damage that is unrelated to the spontaneous debonding. The factory data doesn't speak to HOW or WHY the debonding occurred, so that means that if we intentionally debond the parts to replace a corroded or dented part, we are still allowed to use the SK-125A methods to install the replacement parts.

SK-125A calls out an "inhibited poly-sulfide sealant", which is the same Mil-Spec as high adhesion fuel tank sealant, and [http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecId=3466 NAS1097] reduced head rivets to replace the original factory bond. Cleaning of the surfaces to be re-bonded is also explained, and care must be taken not to introduce contaminants that might initiate future corrosion.

[[Image:Debonded elevator 001.jpg]] [[Image:Debonded elevator 3.jpg]]

==Grumman American Service Kit No. 125A==

Thanks to the support and generosity of FletchAir under license of from Tiger LLC a copy of SK125A is available
[[Media:SK-125A Grumman.pdf|SK125A]].

Repair of Debonding

2009-11-18T13:54:12Z

Hortonjf:

Aside from problems with the infamous purple glue, used in late '74 through early '76 models, that resulted in [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/0/15ABBB4154F287DA86256A38005E36C8?OpenDocument AD 76-17-03], there can be random debonding on the rest of the fleet. Often this is the result of corrosion.

[[Image:Corrosion_under_bonds.jpg]] [[Image:corrosion2.jpg]]

The staggered holes in the bonded area were drilled to allow the skin and ribs to be clecoed together in the same alignment that they were bonded, before the extent of the corrosion was determined. This created a "matched hole tooling" effect, much like [http://vansaircraft.com/public/kit-std.htm Van's RV series] uses on their airframes to reduce the amount of jigging that must be done to assemble the planes.

The factory provided data to be used in doing repairs of all types of debonding with the publication of Service Kit 125A. The short version is that nearly any debonding can be repaired with this data. That is good news for owners and mechanics as we attempt to preserve the aging fleet and repair various damage that is unrelated to the spontaneous debonding. The factory data doesn't speak to HOW or WHY the debonding occurred, so that means that if we intentionally debond the parts to replace a corroded or dented part, we are still allowed to use the SK-125A methods to install the replacement parts.

SK-125A calls out an "inhibited poly-sulfide sealant", which is the same Mil-Spec as high adhesion fuel tank sealant, and [http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecId=3466 NAS1097] reduced head rivets to replace the original factory bond. Cleaning of the surfaces to be re-bonded is also explained, and care must be taken not to introduce contaminants that might initiate future corrosion.

[[Image:debonded elevator 3.jpg]]

==Grumman American Service Kit No. 125A==

Thanks to the support and generosity of FletchAir under license of from Tiger LLC a copy of SK125A is available
[[Media:SK-125A Grumman.pdf|SK125A]].

Repair of Debonding

2009-11-18T13:50:10Z

Hortonjf:

Aside from problems with the infamous purple glue, used in late '74 through early '76 models, that resulted in [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/0/15ABBB4154F287DA86256A38005E36C8?OpenDocument AD 76-17-03], there can be random debonding on the rest of the fleet. Often this is the result of corrosion.

[[Image:Corrosion_under_bonds.jpg]] [[Image:corrosion2.jpg]]

The staggered holes in the bonded area were drilled to allow the skin and ribs to be clecoed together in the same alignment that they were bonded, before the extent of the corrosion was determined. This created a "matched hole tooling" effect, much like [http://vansaircraft.com/public/kit-std.htm Van's RV series] uses on their airframes to reduce the amount of jigging that must be done to assemble the planes.

The factory provided data to be used in doing repairs of all types of debonding with the publication of Service Kit 125A. The short version is that nearly any debonding can be repaired with this data. That is good news for owners and mechanics as we attempt to preserve the aging fleet and repair various damage that is unrelated to the spontaneous debonding. The factory data doesn't speak to HOW or WHY the debonding occurred, so that means that if we intentionally debond the parts to replace a corroded or dented part, we are still allowed to use the SK-125A methods to install the replacement parts.

SK-125A calls out an "inhibited poly-sulfide sealant", which is the same Mil-Spec as high adhesion fuel tank sealant, and [http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecId=3466 NAS1097] reduced head rivets to replace the original factory bond. Cleaning of the surfaces to be re-bonded is also explained, and care must be taken not to introduce contaminants that might initiate future corrosion.

==Grumman American Service Kit No. 125A==

Thanks to the support and generosity of FletchAir under license of from Tiger LLC a copy of SK125A is available
[[media:SK-125A Grumman.pdf|SK125A]].

Repair of Debonding

2009-11-18T13:40:35Z

Hortonjf:

Aside from problems with the infamous purple glue, used in late '74 through early '76 models, that resulted in [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgAD.nsf/0/15ABBB4154F287DA86256A38005E36C8?OpenDocument AD 76-17-03], there can be random debonding on the rest of the fleet. Often this is the result of corrosion.

[[Image:Corrosion_under_bonds.jpg]] [[Image:corrosion2.jpg]]

The staggered holes in the bonded area were drilled to allow the skin and ribs to be clecoed together in the same alignment that they were bonded, before the extent of the corrosion was determined. This created a "matched hole tooling" effect, much like [http://vansaircraft.com/public/kit-std.htm Van's RV series] uses on their airframes to reduce the amount of jigging that must be done to assemble the planes.

The factory provided data to be used in doing repairs of all types of debonding with the publication of Service Kit 125A. The short version is that nearly any debonding can be repaired with this data. That is good news for owners and mechanics as we attempt to preserve the aging fleet and repair various damage that is unrelated to the spontaneous debonding. The factory data doesn't speak to HOW or WHY the debonding occurred, so that means that if we intentionally debond the parts to replace a corroded or dented part, we are still allowed to use the SK-125A methods to install the replacement parts.

SK-125A calls out an "inhibited poly-sulfide sealant", which is the same Mil-Spec as high adhesion fuel tank sealant, and [http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/bigpicture.asp?RecId=3466 NAS1097] reduced head rivets to replace the original factory bond. Cleaning of the surfaces to be re-bonded is also explained, and care must be taken not to introduce contaminants that might initiate future corrosion.

==Grumman American Service Kit No. 125A==

Thanks to the support and generosity of FletchAir under license of from Tiger LLC a copy of SK125A is available

File:SK-125A Grumman .pdf

2009-11-18T13:36:15Z

Hortonjf:

File:Debonded elevator 001 (Small).jpg

2009-11-18T13:35:29Z

Hortonjf:

File:Debonded elevator 3 (Small).jpg

2009-11-18T13:34:34Z

Hortonjf:

How to put air in the tire with wheel pants

2009-09-07T22:30:26Z

Hortonjf:

[[Image:tire pressure 005.jpg|200px|thumb|right|the 45 degree angle is important]]

== Tools Needed ==
* source of compressed air
* 45 degree tire chuck
* 45 degree air pressure gauge

[[Image:tire pressure 002.jpg|200px|thumb|right|note the paint mark on the tire]]
[[Image:tire pressure 001a.jpg|200px|thumb|left|]]

Next question - Where is the tire valve? If you don't have the valve marked in some way you have to bend down and feel for the valve. Can't feel it, get up reposition the plane, bend down check again, etc until you find it. This exercise is repeated for each tire!

I have marked the location of the tire valves with red paint. On the main tires the mark is on the inside of the tire so that it can be seen from the nose of the plane. On the nose tire the mark is directly below the valve.
[[Image:tire pressurea.jpg|200px|thumb|left|]]

== Main Wheels ==
[[Image:tire pressure 008.jpg|200px|thumb|right|]]
[[Image:tire pressure 007.jpg|200px|thumb|left|the 45 angle and the 7:00 position line up well]]

Position the plane so that the copilot side tire has the valve at the 7:00 position. Reach up, remove the valve stem cap and gently pull down (a small amount) on the tire valve. You should then be able to place the air chuck or pressure gauge on the tip. Add or release air as needed to the get the correct tire pressure. Pulling the valve stem down a little won't hurt it, especially if you change tubes with each tire.

For the pilot side position the wheel so that the valve is at 5:00 and repeat above.

[[Image:tire pressure 010.jpg|200px|thumb|left|pulling the stem a small amount won't hurt it]]

==Nose Wheel==
[[Image:tire pressure 019.jpg|200px|thumb|right|valve stem just inside the wheel pant]]
[[Image:tire pressure 017.jpg|200px|thumb|left|again the 45 degree angle makes a good fit]]
The nose wheel is in my opinion the easiest. Just position the plane so that the nose wheel valve is at the bottom or 6:00 position. The nose wheel is a different size and has a different valve stem compared to the main wheels. Its valve stem is metal and comes out of the wheel at a 90 degree right angle. Just remove the valve stem cap and add or release air as needed to obtain the desired tire pressure.

Replace the valve cap and your done. It really isn't difficult. It does require that you get on your hands and knees so a clean, paved ramp/hanger floor is nice.