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Deprecated: ApiModuleManager::__construct(): Implicitly marking parameter $objectFactory as nullable is deprecated, the explicit nullable type must be used instead in /var/www/bondline1_39_17/includes/api/ApiModuleManager.php on line 62 https://bondline.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=GregAmyBondline - User contributions [en]2026-11-10T23:49:08ZUser contributionsMediaWiki 1.39.17https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Creating_a_Grumman-specific_fuel_tank_dip_stick&diff=4050Creating a Grumman-specific fuel tank dip stick2018-08-12T13:54:16Z<p>GregAmy: /* Calibration by Stick */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Introduction ==<br />
<br />
The measurements for the Traveler and the Cheetah standard 19 gal/side tanks are different than the Tiger and long range Cheetah 26 gal/side tanks. The 19 gallon tank measurement is listed first, and the 26 gallon tank measurement is listed last. Note that the 19 gallon tank is NOT measuring inches, but rather the marks on the FuelHawk tube that is sold as a universal model not calibrated to any particular model of plane. The 26 gallon chart is actual inch measurements that can be transfered to any other suitable dipstick such as a wooden paint stirring stick. Sorry for the mismatch of measurement systems, but this is the way 2 different owners provided the information.<br />
<br />
Gil Alexander has also turned these tables into calibration charts for those who prefer pictures. Just print the picture and laminate it. Three versions, just pick the applicable one.<br />
<br />
== Fuel Hawk Calibrations ==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Fuel-hawk-calibrated-small.jpg|thumb|200px|Universal Fuel Hawk For Small Grumman AA-5x Tanks]]<br />
[[Image:Fuel-hawk-calibrated.jpg|thumb|200px|Universal Fuel Hawk For Large Grumman AA-5x Tanks]]<br />
<br />
'''19 Gallon Tank'''<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center"<br />
! Gallons !! FuelHawk#<br />
|-<br />
|4 || Bottom of tank (0#)<br />
|-<br />
|4.4||1#<br />
|-<br />
|6.1||2#<br />
|-<br />
|7.7||3#<br />
|-<br />
|9.4||4#<br />
|-<br />
|11||5#<br />
|-<br />
|12.7||6#<br />
|-<br />
|14.3||7#<br />
|-<br />
|15.9||8#<br />
|-<br />
|17.3||9#<br />
|-<br />
|18.3||10#<br />
|}<br />
<br />
<br style="clear:both;"/><br />
<br />
== Calibration by Stick ==<br />
<br />
[[Image:Fuel-inches-large-tank.jpg|thumb|200px|Generic Calibration for a Wooden Ruler For Large Grumman Tanks]]<br />
<br />
Bondline contributor [http://www.bondline.org/index.php/User:GregAmy Greg Amy] gives his experience using a [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pspages/fuelhawkfuelgauge.php "Fuelhawk C-152"] from J-Air, available at any FBO, with his 26 gallon tanks on a Tiger. It doesn't matter whether you use this, a paint stick, or your favorite pen, as long as the length of it is sufficient so you don't drop it into the tank (that would suck). What counts is the height of the fuel from the bottom of the tank, immediately below the cap opening. Sporty's makes a [https://www.sportys.com/pilotshop/universal-fuel-gauge-11-in.html "Universal Fuel Gauge", P/N 5304A]. I used a permanent marker for the marks, and it's lasted a few year's worth of fuel dips so far.<br />
<br />
The first number is the gallons useable remaining, the second is the distance from the bottom of the stick (tank). Experience with many fillups has shown this to be a very handy ''GUIDELINE''; I'd entertain any others' experiences to adjust this.<br />
<br />
And a generic calibration for a wooden ruler and large Grumman tanks... perhaps the easiest method of all...<br />
<br />
'''26 Gallon Tank'''<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center"<br />
! Gallons !! Distance inches<br />
|-<br />
|7 || Bottom of tank (0")<br />
|-<br />
|8||1/4"<br />
|-<br />
|9||7/16"<br />
|-<br />
|10||11/16"<br />
|-<br />
|11||13/16"<br />
|-<br />
|12||1"<br />
|-<br />
|13||1-1/4"<br />
|-<br />
|14||1-1/2"<br />
|-<br />
|15||1-13/16"<br />
|-<br />
|16||2-1/16"<br />
|-<br />
|17||2-3/8"<br />
|-<br />
|18||2-5/8"<br />
|-<br />
|19||3"<br />
|-<br />
|20||3-1/4"<br />
|-<br />
|21||3-5/8"<br />
|-<br />
|22||4-1/16"<br />
|-<br />
|23||4-1/2"<br />
|-<br />
|24||4-15/16"<br />
|-<br />
|25||5-1/2"<br />
|}</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3940Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-10-04T02:01:31Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Steve Boyer, CFII, MEI, ATP<br><br />
6353 W Old Lincoln Way<br><br />
Wooster, Ohio 44691<br><br />
boyerwood - at - gmail - dot - com<br><br />
330-317-3966<br><br />
N9714U<br><br />
<br/><br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation Services, Inc.<br><br />
288 Christian Street Oxford, CT 06478<br><br />
Office (203) 267-6017<br><br />
http://www.imavsr.com<br><br />
<br><br />
Gary Englund<br/><br />
gbe14 - at - yahoo - dot - com<br/><br />
I have been teaching in<br />
Grummans for years. (40+) I'll help anyone.<br/><br />
1970 AA1 <br/><br />
1969 Piper Comanche<br/><br />
1969 Cherokee 235<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Edward Jett<br><br />
ej620 - at - aol - dot - com<br><br />
I am a flight instructor and own an AA5A <br><br />
KBRY, Louisville, KY area<br><br />
Cell : 502-331-8184.<br><br />
<br><br />
Al Hancock<br/><br />
Phoenix, AZ<br/><br />
AA5A owner, AA1s and AA5s<br/><br />
623-935-9195<br/><br />
a dot hancockjr - at - gmail dot com<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br><br />
Qualified in a all types from Yankee to Cougar excluding taildraggers.<br><br />
<br><br />
Joe Plazak<br><br />
Bloomington, IL & Montreal, QC<br><br />
plazak.1 - at - osu - dot - com<br><br />
CFI and owner of an AA-1A<br><br />
<br><br />
Angela Tarry<br><br />
Long Island, NY (KFRG)<br><br />
AA5B owner and CFI<br><br />
angela dot tarry - at - gmail dot com<br><br />
<br><br />
Al Starbard<br><br />
CT and Southern/Central MA<br><br />
pstarbard - at - gmail<br><br />
CFI, Tiger owner, long-time flyer <br><br />
<br><br />
Brian Sandberg<br><br />
Based at 2W6, Leonardtown, MD<br><br />
sandbag23 - at - hotmail<br><br />
(619)392-5911<br></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3939Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-10-04T02:01:12Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Steve Boyer, CFII, MEI, ATP<br><br />
6353 W Old Lincoln Way<br><br />
Wooster, Ohio 44691<br><br />
boyerwood - at - gmail - dot - com<br><br />
330-317-3966<br><br />
N9714U<br><br />
<br/><br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation Services, Inc.<br><br />
288 Christian Street Oxford, CT 06478<br><br />
Office (203) 267-6017<br><br />
http://www.imavsr.com<br><br />
<br><br />
Gary Englund<br/><br />
gbe14 - at - yahoo - dot - com<br/><br />
I have been teaching in<br />
Grummans for years. (40+) I'll help anyone.<br/><br />
1970 AA1 <br/><br />
1969 Piper Comanche<br/><br />
1969 Cherokee 235<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Edward Jett<br><br />
ej620 - at - aol - dot - com<br><br />
I am a flight instructor and own an AA5A <br><br />
KBRY, Louisville, KY area<br><br />
Cell : 502-331-8184.<br><br />
<br><br />
Al Hancock<br/><br />
Phoenix, AZ<br/><br />
AA5A owner, AA1s and AA5s<br/><br />
623-935-9195<br/><br />
a dot hancockjr - at - gmail dot com<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br><br />
Qualified in a all types from Yankee to Cougar excluding taildraggers.<br><br />
<br><br />
Joe Plazak<br><br />
Bloomington, IL & Montreal, QC<br><br />
plazak.1 - at - osu - dot - com<br><br />
CFI and owner of an AA-1A<br><br />
<br><br />
Angela Tarry<br><br />
Long Island, NY (KFRG)<br><br />
AA5B owner and CFI<br><br />
angela dot tarry - at - gmail dot com<br><br />
<br><br />
Al Starbard<br><br />
CT and Southern/Central MA<br><br />
pstarbard - at - gmail<br><br />
CFI, Tiger owner, long-time flyer <br><br />
<br><br />
Brian Sandberg<br><br />
Based at 2W6m Leonardtown, MD<br><br />
sandbag23 - at - hotmail<br><br />
(619)392-5911<br></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3938Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-10-03T01:58:19Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Steve Boyer, CFII, MEI, ATP<br><br />
6353 W Old Lincoln Way<br><br />
Wooster, Ohio 44691<br><br />
boyerwood - at - gmail - dot - com<br><br />
330-317-3966<br><br />
N9714U<br><br />
<br/><br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation Services, Inc.<br><br />
288 Christian Street Oxford, CT 06478<br><br />
Office (203) 267-6017<br><br />
http://www.imavsr.com<br><br />
<br><br />
Gary Englund<br/><br />
gbe14 - at - yahoo - dot - com<br/><br />
I have been teaching in<br />
Grummans for years. (40+) I'll help anyone.<br/><br />
1970 AA1 <br/><br />
1969 Piper Comanche<br/><br />
1969 Cherokee 235<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Edward Jett<br><br />
ej620 - at - aol - dot - com<br><br />
I am a flight instructor and own an AA5A <br><br />
KBRY, Louisville, KY area<br><br />
Cell : 502-331-8184.<br><br />
<br><br />
Al Hancock<br/><br />
Phoenix, AZ<br/><br />
AA5A owner, AA1s and AA5s<br/><br />
623-935-9195<br/><br />
a dot hancockjr - at - gmail dot com<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br><br />
Qualified in a all types from Yankee to Cougar excluding taildraggers.<br><br />
<br><br />
Joe Plazak<br><br />
Bloomington, IL & Montreal, QC<br><br />
plazak.1 - at - osu - dot - com<br><br />
CFI and owner of an AA-1A<br><br />
<br><br />
Angela Tarry<br><br />
Long Island, NY (KFRG)<br><br />
AA5B owner and CFI<br><br />
angela dot tarry - at - gmail dot com<br><br />
<br><br />
Al Starbard<br><br />
CT and Southern/Central MA<br><br />
pstarbard - at - gmail<br><br />
CFI, Tiger owner, long-time flyer <br></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=User_talk:GregAmy&diff=3937User talk:GregAmy2014-09-29T16:45:55Z<p>GregAmy: Created page with "Looks like Roscoe and I were editing at the same time, resulting in a double entry. Deleted."</p>
<hr />
<div>Looks like Roscoe and I were editing at the same time, resulting in a double entry. Deleted.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3936Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-09-29T16:45:10Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Steve Boyer, CFII, MEI, ATP<br><br />
6353 W Old Lincoln Way<br><br />
Wooster, Ohio 44691<br><br />
boyerwood - at - gmail - dot - com<br><br />
330-317-3966<br><br />
N9714U<br><br />
<br/><br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation Services, Inc.<br><br />
288 Christian Street Oxford, CT 06478<br><br />
Office (203) 267-6017<br><br />
http://www.imavsr.com<br><br />
<br><br />
Gary Englund<br/><br />
gbe14 - at - yahoo - dot - com<br/><br />
I have been teaching in<br />
Grummans for years. (40+) I'll help anyone.<br/><br />
1970 AA1 <br/><br />
1969 Piper Comanche<br/><br />
1969 Cherokee 235<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Edward Jett<br><br />
ej620 - at - aol - dot - com<br><br />
I am a flight instructor and own an AA5A <br><br />
KBRY, Louisville, KY area<br><br />
Cell : 502-331-8184.<br><br />
<br><br />
Al Hancock<br/><br />
Phoenix, AZ<br/><br />
AA5A owner, AA1s and AA5s<br/><br />
623-935-9195<br/><br />
a dot hancockjr - at - gmail dot com<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br><br />
Qualified in a all types from Yankee to Cougar excluding taildraggers.<br><br />
<br><br />
Joe Plazak<br><br />
Bloomington, IL & Montreal, QC<br><br />
plazak.1 - at - osu - dot - com<br><br />
CFI and owner of an AA-1A<br><br />
<br><br />
Angela Tarry<br><br />
Long Island, NY (KFRG)<br><br />
AA5B owner and CFI<br><br />
angela dot tarry - at - gmail dot com<br><br />
<br></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3935Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-09-29T16:43:37Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Steve Boyer, CFII, MEI, ATP<br><br />
6353 W Old Lincoln Way<br><br />
Wooster, Ohio 44691<br><br />
boyerwood - at - gmail - dot - com<br><br />
330-317-3966<br><br />
N9714U<br><br />
<br/><br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation Services, Inc.<br><br />
288 Christian Street Oxford, CT 06478<br><br />
Office (203) 267-6017<br><br />
http://www.imavsr.com<br><br />
<br><br />
Gary Englund<br/><br />
gbe14 - at - yahoo - dot - com<br/><br />
I have been teaching in<br />
Grummans for years. (40+) I'll help anyone.<br/><br />
1970 AA1 <br/><br />
1969 Piper Comanche<br/><br />
1969 Cherokee 235<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Edward Jett<br><br />
ej620 - at - aol - dot - com<br><br />
I am a flight instructor and own an AA5A <br><br />
KBRY, Louisville, KY area<br><br />
Cell : 502-331-8184.<br><br />
<br><br />
Al Hancock<br/><br />
Phoenix, AZ<br/><br />
AA5A owner, AA1s and AA5s<br/><br />
623-935-9195<br/><br />
a dot hancockjr - at - gmail dot com<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br><br />
Qualified in a all types from Yankee to Cougar excluding taildraggers.<br><br />
<br><br />
Joe Plazak<br><br />
Bloomington, IL & Montreal, QC<br><br />
plazak.1 - at - osu - dot - com<br><br />
CFI and owner of an AA-1A<br><br />
<br><br />
Angela Tarry<br><br />
Long Island, NY (KFRG)<br><br />
AA5B owner and CFI<br><br />
angela dot tarry - at - gmail dot com<br><br />
<br><br />
Al Hancock Jr<br><br />
Phoenix AZ(KFRG)<br><br />
"Highly-experienced CFII, '79 Cheetah owner, and 'plenty of time in the AA1 & AA5'"<br><br />
a.hancockjr - at - gmail dot com<br><br />
<br></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3918Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-09-25T02:07:12Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br><br />
Qualified in a all types from Yankee to Cougar excluding taildraggers.<br />
<br />
<br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation Services, Inc.<br><br />
288 Christian Street Oxford, CT 06478<br><br />
Office (203) 267-6017<br><br />
http://www.imavsr.com<br><br />
<br><br />
Edward Jett<br><br />
ej620 - at - aol - dot - com<br><br />
I am a flight instructor and own an AA5A <br><br />
KBRY, Louisville, KY area<br><br />
Cell : 502-331-8184.<br><br />
<br><br />
Gary Englund<br/><br />
gbe14 - at - yahoo - dot - com<br/><br />
I have been teaching in<br />
Grummans for years. (40+) I'll help anyone.<br/><br />
1970 AA1 <br/><br />
1969 Piper Comanche<br/><br />
1969 Cherokee 235<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Steve Boyer, CFII, MEI, ATP<br><br />
6353 W Old Lincoln Way<br><br />
Wooster, Ohio 44691<br><br />
boyerwood - at - gmail - dot - com<br><br />
330-317-3966<br><br />
N9714U<br></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3917Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-09-24T23:40:46Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br><br />
Qualified in a all types from Yankee to Cougar excluding taildraggers.<br />
<br />
<br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation Services, Inc.<br><br />
288 Christian Street Oxford, CT 06478<br><br />
Office (203) 267-6017<br><br />
http://www.imavsr.com<br><br />
<br><br />
Edward Jett<br><br />
ej620@aol.com<br><br />
I am a flight instructor and own an AA5A <br><br />
KBRY, Louisville, KY area<br><br />
Cell : 502-331-8184.<br><br />
<br><br />
Gary Englund<br/><br />
gbe14@yahoo.com<br/><br />
I have been teaching in<br />
Grummans for years. (40+) I'll help anyone.<br/><br />
1970 AA1 <br/><br />
1969 Piper Comanche<br/><br />
1969 Cherokee 235<br/><br />
<br/><br />
Steve Boyer, CFII, MEI, ATP<br><br />
6353 W Old Lincoln Way<br><br />
Wooster, Ohio 44691<br><br />
boyerwood - at - gmail - dot - com<br><br />
330-317-3966<br><br />
N9714U<br></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3916Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-09-24T23:39:19Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br />
<br />
<br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br><br />
Qualified in a all types from Yankee to Cougar excluding taildraggers.<br />
<br />
<br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation Services, Inc.<br><br />
288 Christian Street Oxford, CT 06478<br><br />
Office (203) 267-6017<br><br />
http://www.imavsr.com<br><br />
<br><br />
Edward Jett<br><br />
ej620@aol.com<br><br />
I am a flight instructor and own an AA5A <br><br />
KBRY, Louisville, KY area<br><br />
Cell : 502-331-8184.<br><br />
<br><br />
Gary Englund<br/><br />
gbe14@yahoo.com<br/><br />
I have been teaching in<br />
Grummans for years. (40+) I'll help anyone.<br/><br />
1970 AA1 <br/><br />
1969 Piper Comanche<br/><br />
1969 Cherokee 235<br/><br />
<br/></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3911Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-09-24T18:19:29Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br />
<br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation Services, Inc.<br><br />
288 Christian Street Oxford, CT 06478<br><br />
Office (203) 267-6017<br><br />
http://www.imavsr.com</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3910Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-09-24T18:17:39Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br />
<br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation<br><br />
KOXC, Waterbury-Oxford CT</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3909Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-09-24T18:17:27Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br />
<br />
Ron Levy<br><br />
Salisbury MD<br><br />
410-430-4078<br><br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br />
<br />
Kyle Colasanto<br><br />
Image Aviation<br><br />
KOXC, Waterbury-Oxford CT</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Grumman-Experienced_CFIs&diff=3908Grumman-Experienced CFIs2014-09-24T17:55:06Z<p>GregAmy: Created page with "The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondli..."</p>
<hr />
<div>The following CFIs have submitted their contact information for Grumman-specific training. Please note that this is self-submitted information, supporters and admins of Bondline may not actually know the instructor(s), so the pilot should check the instructor's credentials and seek the opinion of those who do know the person.<br />
<br />
Ron Levy<br />
Salisbury MD<br />
410-430-4078<br />
rblevy - at - mindspring - dot - com<br />
<br />
Kyle Colasanto<br />
Image Aviation<br />
KOXC, Waterbury-Oxford CT</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Operations&diff=3907Operations2014-09-24T17:51:16Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>* [[Sample Binder]]<br />
* [[Preflight]]<br />
* [[Normal Procedures]]<br />
* [[Emergency]]<br />
* [[Performance]]<br />
* [[Towing]]<br />
* [[Grumman-Experienced CFIs]]</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Bob_Steward&diff=3855User talk:Bob Steward2014-04-24T15:38:54Z<p>GregAmy: /* Remembering Bob Steward */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Remembering Bob Steward ==<br />
<br />
Bob passed away April 23, 2014, after a brief illness. Your memories of Bob Steward are welcome here.<br />
<br />
== Remembering Bob Steward ==<br />
The value that Bob Steward brought to the aviation - and specifically, Grumman - communities was vast and wide-reaching. The void left by his passing will likely never be filled.<br />
<br />
Bob was a damn fine man, one of the finest I'll ever met. - Greg Amy</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Bob_Steward&diff=3854User talk:Bob Steward2014-04-24T15:38:14Z<p>GregAmy: /* Remembering Bob Steward */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Remembering Bob Steward ==<br />
<br />
Bob passed away April 23, 2014, after a brief illness. Your memories of Bob Steward are welcome here.<br />
<br />
== Remembering Bob Steward ==<br />
The value that Bob Steward brought to the aviation, and specifically Grumman, communities was vast and wide-reaching. The void left by his passing will likely never be filled.<br />
<br />
Bob was a damn fine man, one of the finest I'll ever met. - Greg Amy</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=User_talk:Bob_Steward&diff=3853User talk:Bob Steward2014-04-24T15:37:55Z<p>GregAmy: /* Remembering Bob Steward */</p>
<hr />
<div>== Remembering Bob Steward ==<br />
<br />
Bob passed away April 23, 2014, after a brief illness. Your memories of Bob Steward are welcome here.<br />
<br />
== Remembering Bob Steward ==<br />
The value that Bob Steward brought to the aviation, and specifically Grumman, communities was vast and wide-reaching. The void left by his passing will likely never be filled.<br />
<br />
Bob was a damn fine man, one of the finest I'll ever met.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Disassembly&diff=3746Disassembly2012-11-26T12:49:07Z<p>GregAmy: /* Removing the wings (4 place) */</p>
<hr />
<div>A request on the GG for information on how to remove your plane from a non-airport landing site by disassembling it enough to fit it on a trailer or flat bed wrecker lead to this article and the check lists below.<br />
<br />
[[Image:2-place_no_wings.jpg]][[Image:4placewingsremoved.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Removing the wings (4 place) ==<br />
<br />
# Buy a bunch of Zip-Locks bags and a Sharpie to keep track of all your hardware as you remove it.<br />
# Remove the wing tips.<br />
# If you're going to be transporting the wings flat, remove the pitot tube and tie-down rings.<br />
# Remove the aileron to control horn bolt at the center of the fuselage under the back seat (two separate through-bolts on the 4-place).<br />
# Remove the bolts on the outer aileron bearing bracket and aft spar. Hold up the outer aileron to keep it from falling.<br />
# Slide aileron assembly with counterweight and bearing bracket out. May have to rotate it slowly to break the friction on the inner control horn; go slowly.<br />
# Lower flaps to access to the nut on the flap drive arm; remove nut and washer. Alternate method: leave arm attached and move flaps up and down as need to get access to the bolts in the following step. Your goal is to get access to the flap drive clamp bolts, an aluminum block that fits around the large torque tube, in the outboard corners of the "hell hole" under the back seat. <br />
# Back off (''do not remove'') the two "set" bolts on each flap drive torque tube clamp and loosen the pinch bolt at the inboard end of the tube. '''The 2 bolts that pin the clamp to the torque tube need only be backed out 3-4 turns, and will sometimes take the threads out with them if backed completely out.''' As per the above instruction, you may need to move the flaps up and down a couple times to get access to all the bolts. Be patient.<br />
# Pull the torque tube out of the clamp block and first (inner) bearing bracket on the wing.<br />
# Remove outer flap/inner aileron bearing bracket (can be a pain to get to the bolt heads. Again, ''be patient'').<br />
# Slide flap out, some care is needed to break loose the RTV at the inboard end. Repeat flap removal on the opposite side.<br />
# Remove sump covers from under wing root.<br />
# Disconnect pitot line on left wing sump area. The (probably clear) plastic hose that couples the two 1/4" aluminum tubes is probably hard, so just cut the plastic line and replace with a new part (it's cheap) later.<br />
# Disconnect the electrical (pitot, strobes, nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.) in the sump area, both sides. If any wires do not have a connector in that area (for example, if someone added strobes), cuss at your A&P and snip the wire cleanly; you'll add a connector upon re-assembly. If more than one wire needs to be cut, cuss out your A&P some more and clearly mark each wire (colored tape, label maker, etc) so you'll know which is which on re-assembly.<br />
# Drain the fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface. '''Alternate de-fueling option:''' buy one of those simple "shaker siphons" (example:http://www.boatshowproducts.com/super-siphon-hose) and use that to siphon out the vast majority of the fuel prior to pulling the sump drain. Makes for a lot less mess.<br />
# Do we need to state the obvious about '''using extreme care when de-fueling'''? The stuff is flammable, you know...<br />
# Before you proceed further, here's a '''general AN-type fittings note!''' You '''must not''' allow the bulkhead (or any) fitting in the wing (or lines) to rotate while you loosen the line nuts, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib (or AN elbow) with an appropriate backup wrench and turn only the line nut. '''Do not''' rely on using leverage on lines or fittings to loosen these AN nuts, '''always''' use backup wrenches. These lines and fittings are not cheap!<br />
# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the small vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': there are two round access covers just fore and aft of the sump cover area that give you access to the areas where these fuel lines go ('''not''' the ones outboard of the wing root seal); remove these two covers each side. Once they are removed you'll see two AN fuel line elbows, one each fore and aft, both sides; remove these elbows and the hard lines that go from these elbows to the fuel sump.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.<br />
# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.<br />
# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rotate the wing around the spar up and down only 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch you'll have access; remove this line.<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing these lines that go to the tanks. However, take care to ensure you do not damage these extended lines as you remove the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.<br />
# '''All airplanes''': remember you have wires and hoses that may extend into the wing root. Do not rotate the wing so much as to damage these.<br />
# With fuel lines loose from wing rock it as before - just slightly! - nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.<br />
# Grab your favorite beverage and marvel at what you just accomplished. Then get back to work and get that airplane back in the sky!<br />
<br />
There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:4placetrailer.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Removing the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevators ==<br />
<br />
There are 2 methods, both explained below. Remove the entire assembly with elevators installed, or remove elevators individually, then the Stabilizer by itself. Much of it is in common, differences will be noted, removal of the entire assembly is explained first.<br />
<br />
# Remove tailcone plastic under rudder (8 sheet metal screws plus the position light wiring which unplugs at aft bulkhead)<br />
# Remove forward facing HS "fillets" at inboard ends of HS and fuselage sides. (4 screws, one upper and one lower each side, slide forward off clips)<br />
# Remove 8 AN4 (7/16" head) bolts on HS forward attachment (4 each side), exposed when fillets were removed.<br />
# Remove ELT covers on both sides<br />
# Remove cotter pins and clevis bolts from elevator control cables.<br />
# Remove 2 clamp bolts (AN4 - 7/16" heads) on elevator control horns and collect spacers that held the control horns apart.<br />
# Remove cotter pin, nut and bolt at the control horn pivot<br />
# Remove the 2 AN3 (3/16" head) bolts that clamp the trim drive to the jackscrew (under the HS and Elevators, that threaded thingy that comes out of the aft bulkhead). Secure dangling arms so they don't get fouled by other work, and DO NOT disturb the relationship of the threaded trim drive to the barrel nut and trim arms that are now loose. This is a RIGGING component, and quite easy to screw up, if you don't secure it now, so that it can't move.<br />
<br />
== For removal of elevators separately skip down to that section now ==<br />
<br />
# Remove the control horn to elevator torque tube bolts (Close tolerance AN174 bolts -- 7/16" heads), and carefully wiggle the control horns outboard ~1/4" on each side.<br />
# Using an extension (preferably 1/4" drive), back the upper and lower elevator stop bolts out of the aft bulkhead. They have Jam nuts on them to prevent rotation, which may require untorquing first, but usually the bolts can be unscrewed with the jam nuts left alone. For ease of re-assembly, disturb the jam nuts a little as possible and mark the bolts as "upper" and "lower", so that they can be spun back in to almost exact location, as these set the up and down limits of the elevators and are important rigging components.<br />
<br />
Skip down to Removing HS if you are leaving the elevators installed.<br />
<br />
== Removing the Elevators separately ==<br />
Having accomplished the steps above, begin here:<br />
# Remove safety wire and bolts that hold the trim "yoke" to the 2 elevators.<br />
# Remove the cotter pins, nuts and clevis bolts that attach the yoke to the individual trim arms.<br />
# Remove yoke and wrap safety wire through each hole where it was bolted to the elevators (forward end) to contain the spacer, etc.<br />
# On each elevator locate the 2 outboard bearing supports (lift elevator up and look in the bottom forward edge for "pockets) with a bolt and some safety wire), and remove safety wire, bolts and washers. Note that elevator will FALL when last bolt is removed, so have a helper support the elevator with the trailing edge UP so you can work on the bolts.<br />
# Slide elevator half straight aft, off of the bearing supports. Repeat last 2 steps for other side.<br />
# Using an extension (preferably 1/4" drive), back the upper and lower elevator stop bolts out of the aft bulkhead. They have Jam nuts on them to prevent rotation, which may require untorquing first, but usually the bolts can be unscrewed with the jam nuts left alone. For ease of re-assembly, disturb the jam nuts a little as possible and mark the bolts as "upper" and "lower", so that they can be spun back in to almost exact location, as these set the up and down limits of the elevators and are important rigging components.<br />
== Removing HS ==<br />
<br />
# Reaching inside the ELT covers through the larger hole in the ELT "shelf", if ELT is installed under vertical fin, put a 7/16" wrench or, using a long extension and 7/16" socket, locate the 2 nuts that secure the stiffener rod from the aft bulkhead to the HS forward spar carry through, and hold them as the AN4 (7/16" head) bolts on the pilot's side of the elevator center pivot bearing bracket are removed. (This is the "Trick" to getting the HS off, that all novices can't find, and even a few experienced removers have forgotten when in a hurry. <cough>)<br />
# Remove the 4 AN6 (9/16" head) bolts on the aft spar, remembering that as the last one is pulled, the HS and elevators will come free, and this is NOT a one person job. Support the HS/Elevators at both ends while the last bolt is removed, and slide it straight back, avoiding any side to side or tilting, that can bind the HS against the fuselage and scratch the paint.<br />
# Set on padded surface. Consider taping elevator tips to HS is you left the elevators installed. This makes it easier to move, store and re-hang HS in the future.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Disassembly&diff=3745Disassembly2012-11-26T02:11:59Z<p>GregAmy: /* Removing the wings (4 place) */</p>
<hr />
<div>A request on the GG for information on how to remove your plane from a non-airport landing site by disassembling it enough to fit it on a trailer or flat bed wrecker lead to this article and the check lists below.<br />
<br />
[[Image:2-place_no_wings.jpg]][[Image:4placewingsremoved.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Removing the wings (4 place) ==<br />
<br />
# Buy a bunch of Zip-Locks bags and a Sharpie to keep track of all your hardware as you remove it.<br />
# Remove the wing tips.<br />
# If you're going to be transporting the wings flat, remove the pitot tube and tie-down rings.<br />
# Remove the aileron to control horn bolt at the center of the fuselage under the back seat (two separate through-bolts on the 4-place).<br />
# Remove the bolts on the outer aileron bearing bracket and aft spar. Hold up the outer aileron to keep it from falling.<br />
# Slide aileron assembly with counterweight and bearing bracket out. May have to rotate it slowly to break the friction on the inner control horn; go slowly.<br />
# Lower flaps to access to the nut on the flap drive arm; remove nut and washer. Alternate method: leave arm attached and move flaps up and down as need to get access to the bolts in the following step. Your goal is to get access to the flap drive clamp bolts, an aluminum block that fits around the large torque tube, in the outboard corners of the "hell hole" under the back seat. <br />
# Back off (''do not remove'') the two "set" bolts on each flap drive torque tube clamp and loosen the pinch bolt at the inboard end of the tube. '''The 2 bolts that pin the clamp to the torque tube need only be backed out 3-4 turns, and will sometimes take the threads out with them if backed completely out.''' As per the above instruction, you may need to move the flaps up and down a couple times to get access to all the bolts. Be patient.<br />
# Pull the torque tube out of the clamp block and first (inner) bearing bracket on the wing.<br />
# Remove outer flap/inner aileron bearing bracket (can be a pain to get to the bolt heads. Again, ''be patient'').<br />
# Slide flap out, some care is needed to break loose the RTV at the inboard end. Repeat flap removal on the opposite side.<br />
# Remove sump covers from under wing root.<br />
# Disconnect pitot line on left wing sump area. The (probably clear) plastic hose that couples the two 1/4" aluminum tubes is probably hard, so just cut the plastic line and replace with a new part (it's cheap) later.<br />
# Disconnect the electrical (pitot, strobes, nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.) in the sump area, both sides. If any wires do not have a connector in that area (for example, if someone added strobes), cuss at your A&P and snip the wire cleanly; you'll add a connector upon re-assembly. If more than one wire needs to be cut, cuss out your A&P some more and clearly mark each wire (colored tape, label maker, etc) so you'll know which is which on re-assembly.<br />
# Drain the fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface. '''Alternate de-fueling option:''' buy one of those simple "shaker siphons" (example:http://www.boatshowproducts.com/super-siphon-hose) and use that to siphon out the vast majority of the fuel prior to pulling the sump drain. Makes for a lot less mess.<br />
# Do we need to state the obvious about '''using extreme care when de-fueling'''? The stuff is flammable, you know...<br />
# Before you proceed further, here's a '''general AN-type fittings note!''' You '''must not''' allow the bulkhead (or any) fitting in the wing (or lines) to rotate while you loosen the line nuts, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib (or AN elbow) with an appropriate backup wrench and turn only the line nut. '''Do not''' rely on using leverage on lines or fittings to loosen these AN nuts, '''always''' use backup wrenches. These lines and fittings are not cheap!<br />
# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the small vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': there are two round access covers just fore and aft of the sump cover area that give you access to the areas where these fuel lines go ('''not''' the ones outboard of the wing root seal); remove these two covers each side. Once they are removed you'll see two AN fuel line elbows, one each fore and aft, both sides; remove these elbows and the hard lines that go from these elbows to the fuel sump.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.<br />
# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.<br />
# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch you'll have access; remove this line.<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing these lines that go to the tanks. However, take care to ensure you do not damage these extended lines as you remove the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.<br />
# '''All airplanes''': remember you have wires and hoses that may extend into the wing root. Do not rotate the wing so much as to damage these.<br />
# With fuel lines loose from wing rock it as before - just slightly! - nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.<br />
# Grab your favorite beverage and marvel at what you just accomplished. Then get back to work and get that airplane back in the sky!<br />
<br />
There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:4placetrailer.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Removing the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevators ==<br />
<br />
There are 2 methods, both explained below. Remove the entire assembly with elevators installed, or remove elevators individually, then the Stabilizer by itself. Much of it is in common, differences will be noted, removal of the entire assembly is explained first.<br />
<br />
# Remove tailcone plastic under rudder (8 sheet metal screws plus the position light wiring which unplugs at aft bulkhead)<br />
# Remove forward facing HS "fillets" at inboard ends of HS and fuselage sides. (4 screws, one upper and one lower each side, slide forward off clips)<br />
# Remove 8 AN4 (7/16" head) bolts on HS forward attachment (4 each side), exposed when fillets were removed.<br />
# Remove ELT covers on both sides<br />
# Remove cotter pins and clevis bolts from elevator control cables.<br />
# Remove 2 clamp bolts (AN4 - 7/16" heads) on elevator control horns and collect spacers that held the control horns apart.<br />
# Remove cotter pin, nut and bolt at the control horn pivot<br />
# Remove the 2 AN3 (3/16" head) bolts that clamp the trim drive to the jackscrew (under the HS and Elevators, that threaded thingy that comes out of the aft bulkhead). Secure dangling arms so they don't get fouled by other work, and DO NOT disturb the relationship of the threaded trim drive to the barrel nut and trim arms that are now loose. This is a RIGGING component, and quite easy to screw up, if you don't secure it now, so that it can't move.<br />
<br />
== For removal of elevators separately skip down to that section now ==<br />
<br />
# Remove the control horn to elevator torque tube bolts (Close tolerance AN174 bolts -- 7/16" heads), and carefully wiggle the control horns outboard ~1/4" on each side.<br />
# Using an extension (preferably 1/4" drive), back the upper and lower elevator stop bolts out of the aft bulkhead. They have Jam nuts on them to prevent rotation, which may require untorquing first, but usually the bolts can be unscrewed with the jam nuts left alone. For ease of re-assembly, disturb the jam nuts a little as possible and mark the bolts as "upper" and "lower", so that they can be spun back in to almost exact location, as these set the up and down limits of the elevators and are important rigging components.<br />
<br />
Skip down to Removing HS if you are leaving the elevators installed.<br />
<br />
== Removing the Elevators separately ==<br />
Having accomplished the steps above, begin here:<br />
# Remove safety wire and bolts that hold the trim "yoke" to the 2 elevators.<br />
# Remove the cotter pins, nuts and clevis bolts that attach the yoke to the individual trim arms.<br />
# Remove yoke and wrap safety wire through each hole where it was bolted to the elevators (forward end) to contain the spacer, etc.<br />
# On each elevator locate the 2 outboard bearing supports (lift elevator up and look in the bottom forward edge for "pockets) with a bolt and some safety wire), and remove safety wire, bolts and washers. Note that elevator will FALL when last bolt is removed, so have a helper support the elevator with the trailing edge UP so you can work on the bolts.<br />
# Slide elevator half straight aft, off of the bearing supports. Repeat last 2 steps for other side.<br />
# Using an extension (preferably 1/4" drive), back the upper and lower elevator stop bolts out of the aft bulkhead. They have Jam nuts on them to prevent rotation, which may require untorquing first, but usually the bolts can be unscrewed with the jam nuts left alone. For ease of re-assembly, disturb the jam nuts a little as possible and mark the bolts as "upper" and "lower", so that they can be spun back in to almost exact location, as these set the up and down limits of the elevators and are important rigging components.<br />
== Removing HS ==<br />
<br />
# Reaching inside the ELT covers through the larger hole in the ELT "shelf", if ELT is installed under vertical fin, put a 7/16" wrench or, using a long extension and 7/16" socket, locate the 2 nuts that secure the stiffener rod from the aft bulkhead to the HS forward spar carry through, and hold them as the AN4 (7/16" head) bolts on the pilot's side of the elevator center pivot bearing bracket are removed. (This is the "Trick" to getting the HS off, that all novices can't find, and even a few experienced removers have forgotten when in a hurry. <cough>)<br />
# Remove the 4 AN6 (9/16" head) bolts on the aft spar, remembering that as the last one is pulled, the HS and elevators will come free, and this is NOT a one person job. Support the HS/Elevators at both ends while the last bolt is removed, and slide it straight back, avoiding any side to side or tilting, that can bind the HS against the fuselage and scratch the paint.<br />
# Set on padded surface. Consider taping elevator tips to HS is you left the elevators installed. This makes it easier to move, store and re-hang HS in the future.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Disassembly&diff=3744Disassembly2012-11-26T02:11:39Z<p>GregAmy: /* Removing the wings (4 place) */</p>
<hr />
<div>A request on the GG for information on how to remove your plane from a non-airport landing site by disassembling it enough to fit it on a trailer or flat bed wrecker lead to this article and the check lists below.<br />
<br />
[[Image:2-place_no_wings.jpg]][[Image:4placewingsremoved.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Removing the wings (4 place) ==<br />
<br />
# Buy a bunch of Zip-Locks bags and a Sharpie to keep track of all your hardware as you remove it.<br />
# Remove the wing tips.<br />
# If you're going to be transporting the wings flat, remove the pitot tube and tie-down rings.<br />
# Remove the aileron to control horn bolt at the center of the fuselage under the back seat (two separate through-bolts on the 4-place).<br />
# Remove the bolts on the outer aileron bearing bracket and aft spar. Hold up the outer aileron to keep it from falling.<br />
# Slide aileron assembly with counterweight and bearing bracket out. May have to rotate it slowly to break the friction on the inner control horn; go slowly.<br />
# Lower flaps to access to the nut on the flap drive arm; remove nut and washer. Alternate method: leave arm attached and move flaps up and down as need to get access to the bolts in the following step. Your goal is to get access to the flap drive clamp bolts, an aluminum block that fits around the large torque tube, in the outboard corners of the "hell hole" under the back seat. <br />
# Back off (''do not remove'') the two "set" bolts on each flap drive torque tube clamp and loosen the pinch bolt at the inboard end of the tube. '''The 2 bolts that pin the clamp to the torque tube need only be backed out 3-4 turns, and will sometimes take the threads out with them if backed completely out.''' As per the above instruction, you may need to move the flaps up and down a couple times to get access to all the bolts. Be patient.<br />
# Pull the torque tube out of the clamp block and first (inner) bearing bracket on the wing.<br />
# Remove outer flap/inner aileron bearing bracket (can be a pain to get to the bolt heads. Again, ''be patient'').<br />
# Slide flap out, some care is needed to break loose the RTV at the inboard end. Repeat flap removal on the opposite side.<br />
# Remove sump covers from under wing root.<br />
# Disconnect pitot line on left wing sump area. The (probably clear) plastic hose that couples the two 1/4" aluminum tubes is probably hard, so just cut the plastic line and replace with a new part (it's cheap) later.<br />
# Disconnect the electrical (pitot, strobes, nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.) in the sump area, both sides. If any wires do not have a connector in that area (for example, if someone added strobes), cuss at your A&P and snip the wire cleanly; you'll add a connector upon re-assembly. If more than one wire needs to be cut, cuss out your A&P some more and clearly mark each wire (colored tape, label maker, etc) so you'll know which is which on re-assembly.<br />
# Drain the fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface. '''Alternate de-fueling option:''' buy one of those simple "shaker siphons" (example:http://www.boatshowproducts.com/super-siphon-hose) and use that to siphon out the vast majority of the fuel prior to pulling the sump drain. Makes for a lot less mess.<br />
# Do we need to state the obvious about '''using extreme care when de-fueling'''? The stuff is flammable, you know...<br />
# Before you proceed further, here's a '''general AN-type fittings note!''' You '''must not''' allow the bulkhead (or any) fitting in the wing (or lines) to rotate while you loosen the line nuts, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib (or AN elbow) with an appropriate backup wrench and turn only the line nut. '''Do not''' rely on using leverage on lines or fittings to loosen these AN nuts, '''always''' use backup wrenches. These lines and fittings are not cheap!<br />
# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the small vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': there are two round access covers just fore and aft of the sump cover area that give you access to the areas where these fuel lines go ('''not''' the ones outboard of the wing root seal); remove these two covers each side. Once they are removed you'll see two AN fuel line elbows, one each fore and aft, both sides; remove these elbows and the hard lines that go from these elbows to the fuel sump.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.<br />
# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.<br />
# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch you'll have access; remove this line.<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing these lines that go to the tanks. However, take care to ensure you do not damage these extended lines as you remove the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.<br />
# '''All airplanes''': remember you have wires and hoses that may extend into the wing root. Do not rotate the wing so much as to damage these.<br />
# With fuel lines loose from wing rock it as before - just slightly! - nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.<br />
# Grab your favorite beverage and marvel at what you just accomplished. Then get back to work and get that airplane back in the sky!<br />
<br />
There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.<br />
<br />
Placeholder here to convince some Grumman guru to write up instructions on how to remove the horizontal stabilizers (which you need to do if you're transporting the airplane on public roads on a trailer.)<br />
<br />
[[Image:4placetrailer.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Removing the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevators ==<br />
<br />
There are 2 methods, both explained below. Remove the entire assembly with elevators installed, or remove elevators individually, then the Stabilizer by itself. Much of it is in common, differences will be noted, removal of the entire assembly is explained first.<br />
<br />
# Remove tailcone plastic under rudder (8 sheet metal screws plus the position light wiring which unplugs at aft bulkhead)<br />
# Remove forward facing HS "fillets" at inboard ends of HS and fuselage sides. (4 screws, one upper and one lower each side, slide forward off clips)<br />
# Remove 8 AN4 (7/16" head) bolts on HS forward attachment (4 each side), exposed when fillets were removed.<br />
# Remove ELT covers on both sides<br />
# Remove cotter pins and clevis bolts from elevator control cables.<br />
# Remove 2 clamp bolts (AN4 - 7/16" heads) on elevator control horns and collect spacers that held the control horns apart.<br />
# Remove cotter pin, nut and bolt at the control horn pivot<br />
# Remove the 2 AN3 (3/16" head) bolts that clamp the trim drive to the jackscrew (under the HS and Elevators, that threaded thingy that comes out of the aft bulkhead). Secure dangling arms so they don't get fouled by other work, and DO NOT disturb the relationship of the threaded trim drive to the barrel nut and trim arms that are now loose. This is a RIGGING component, and quite easy to screw up, if you don't secure it now, so that it can't move.<br />
<br />
== For removal of elevators separately skip down to that section now ==<br />
<br />
# Remove the control horn to elevator torque tube bolts (Close tolerance AN174 bolts -- 7/16" heads), and carefully wiggle the control horns outboard ~1/4" on each side.<br />
# Using an extension (preferably 1/4" drive), back the upper and lower elevator stop bolts out of the aft bulkhead. They have Jam nuts on them to prevent rotation, which may require untorquing first, but usually the bolts can be unscrewed with the jam nuts left alone. For ease of re-assembly, disturb the jam nuts a little as possible and mark the bolts as "upper" and "lower", so that they can be spun back in to almost exact location, as these set the up and down limits of the elevators and are important rigging components.<br />
<br />
Skip down to Removing HS if you are leaving the elevators installed.<br />
<br />
== Removing the Elevators separately ==<br />
Having accomplished the steps above, begin here:<br />
# Remove safety wire and bolts that hold the trim "yoke" to the 2 elevators.<br />
# Remove the cotter pins, nuts and clevis bolts that attach the yoke to the individual trim arms.<br />
# Remove yoke and wrap safety wire through each hole where it was bolted to the elevators (forward end) to contain the spacer, etc.<br />
# On each elevator locate the 2 outboard bearing supports (lift elevator up and look in the bottom forward edge for "pockets) with a bolt and some safety wire), and remove safety wire, bolts and washers. Note that elevator will FALL when last bolt is removed, so have a helper support the elevator with the trailing edge UP so you can work on the bolts.<br />
# Slide elevator half straight aft, off of the bearing supports. Repeat last 2 steps for other side.<br />
# Using an extension (preferably 1/4" drive), back the upper and lower elevator stop bolts out of the aft bulkhead. They have Jam nuts on them to prevent rotation, which may require untorquing first, but usually the bolts can be unscrewed with the jam nuts left alone. For ease of re-assembly, disturb the jam nuts a little as possible and mark the bolts as "upper" and "lower", so that they can be spun back in to almost exact location, as these set the up and down limits of the elevators and are important rigging components.<br />
== Removing HS ==<br />
<br />
# Reaching inside the ELT covers through the larger hole in the ELT "shelf", if ELT is installed under vertical fin, put a 7/16" wrench or, using a long extension and 7/16" socket, locate the 2 nuts that secure the stiffener rod from the aft bulkhead to the HS forward spar carry through, and hold them as the AN4 (7/16" head) bolts on the pilot's side of the elevator center pivot bearing bracket are removed. (This is the "Trick" to getting the HS off, that all novices can't find, and even a few experienced removers have forgotten when in a hurry. <cough>)<br />
# Remove the 4 AN6 (9/16" head) bolts on the aft spar, remembering that as the last one is pulled, the HS and elevators will come free, and this is NOT a one person job. Support the HS/Elevators at both ends while the last bolt is removed, and slide it straight back, avoiding any side to side or tilting, that can bind the HS against the fuselage and scratch the paint.<br />
# Set on padded surface. Consider taping elevator tips to HS is you left the elevators installed. This makes it easier to move, store and re-hang HS in the future.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:4placewingsremoved.jpg&diff=3742File:4placewingsremoved.jpg2012-11-25T14:16:39Z<p>GregAmy: uploaded a new version of &quot;File:4placewingsremoved.jpg&quot;</p>
<hr />
<div>Tiger with wings removed.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Disassembly&diff=3741Disassembly2012-11-25T14:13:29Z<p>GregAmy: /* Removing the wings (4 place) */</p>
<hr />
<div>A request on the GG for information on how to remove your plane from a non-airport landing site by disassembling it enough to fit it on a trailer or flat bed wrecker lead to this article and the check lists below.<br />
<br />
[[Image:2-place_no_wings.jpg]][[Image:4placewingsremoved.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Removing the wings (4 place) ==<br />
<br />
# Buy a bunch of Zip-Locks bags and a Sharpie to keep track of all your hardware as you remove it.<br />
# Remove the wing tips.<br />
# If you're going to be transporting the wings flat, remove the pitot tube and tie-down rings.<br />
# Remove the aileron to control horn bolt at the center of the fuselage under the back seat (two separate through-bolts on the 4-place).<br />
# Remove the bolts on the outer aileron bearing bracket and aft spar. Hold up the outer aileron to keep it from falling.<br />
# Slide aileron assembly with counterweight and bearing bracket out. May have to rotate it slowly to break the friction on the inner control horn; go slowly.<br />
# Lower flaps to access to the nut on the flap drive arm; remove nut and washer. Alternate method: leave arm attached and move flaps up and down as need to get access to the bolts in the following step. Your goal is to get access to the flap drive clamp bolts, an aluminum block that fits around the large torque tube, in the outboard corners of the "hell hole" under the back seat. <br />
# Back off (''do not remove'') the two "set" bolts on each flap drive torque tube clamp and loosen the pinch bolt at the inboard end of the tube. '''The 2 bolts that pin the clamp to the torque tube need only be backed out 3-4 turns, and will sometimes take the threads out with them if backed completely out.''' As per the above instruction, you may need to move the flaps up and down a couple times to get access to all the bolts. Be patient.<br />
# Pull the torque tube out of the clamp block and first (inner) bearing bracket on the wing.<br />
# Remove outer flap/inner aileron bearing bracket (can be a pain to get to the bolt heads. Again, ''be patient'').<br />
# Slide flap out, some care is needed to break loose the RTV at the inboard end. Repeat flap removal on the opposite side.<br />
# Remove sump covers from under wing root.<br />
# Disconnect pitot line on left wing sump area. The (probably clear) plastic hose that couples the two 1/4" aluminum tubes is probably hard, so just cut the plastic line and replace with a new part (it's cheap) later.<br />
# Disconnect the electrical (pitot, strobes, nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.) in the sump area, both sides. If any wires do not have a connector in that area (for example, if someone added strobes), cuss at your A&P and snip the wire cleanly; you'll add a connector upon re-assembly. If more than one wire needs to be cut, cuss out your A&P some more and clearly mark each wire (colored tape, label maker, etc) so you'll know which is which on re-assembly.<br />
# Drain the fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface. '''Alternate de-fueling option:''' buy one of those simple "shaker siphons" (example:http://www.boatshowproducts.com/super-siphon-hose) and use that to siphon out the vast majority of the fuel prior to pulling the sump drain. Makes for a lot less mess.<br />
# Do we need to state the obvious about '''using extreme care when de-fueling'''? The stuff is flammable, you know...<br />
# Before you proceed further, here's a '''general AN-type fittings note!'''. You '''must not''' allow the bulkhead (or any) fitting in the wing (or lines) to rotate while you loosen the line nuts, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib and turn only the line nut. '''Do not''' rely on using leverage on lines or fittings to loosen these AN nuts, '''always''' use backup wrenches. These lines and fittings are not cheap!<br />
# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the small vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': there are two round access covers just fore and aft of the sump cover area that give you access to the areas where these fuel lines go ('''not''' the ones outboard of the wing root seal; remove these two covers each side. Once removed you'll see two AN fuel line elbows, one each fore and aft, both sides; remove these elbows and the hard lines that go from these elbows to the fuel sump.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.<br />
# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.<br />
# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch remove this line.<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing this lines that go to the tanks. However, take care not ensure you do not damage these extending lines as you are removing the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.<br />
# '''All airplanes''': remember you've got wires and hoses that may extend into the wing through holes in the wing root. Do not rotate the wing so much as to damage these.<br />
# With fuel lines loose from wing, rock it as before, nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.<br />
# Grab your favorite beverage and marvel at what you just accomplished. Then get back to work and get that airplane back in the sky!<br />
<br />
There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.<br />
<br />
Placeholder here to convince some Grumman guru to write up instructions on how to remove the horizontal stabilizers (which you need to do if you're transporting the airplane on public roads on a trailer.)<br />
<br />
<br />
[[Image:4placetrailer.jpg]]</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Disassembly&diff=3740Disassembly2012-11-25T14:12:33Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>A request on the GG for information on how to remove your plane from a non-airport landing site by disassembling it enough to fit it on a trailer or flat bed wrecker lead to this article and the check lists below.<br />
<br />
[[Image:2-place_no_wings.jpg]][[Image:4placewingsremoved.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Removing the wings (4 place) ==<br />
<br />
# Buy a bunch of Zip-Locks bags and a Sharpie to keep track of all your hardware as you remove it.<br />
# Remove the wing tips.<br />
# If you're going to be transporting the wings flat, remove the pitot tube and tie-down rings.<br />
# Remove the aileron to control horn bolt at the center of the fuselage under the back seat (two separate through-bolts on the 4-place).<br />
# Remove the bolts on the outer aileron bearing bracket and aft spar. Hold up the outer aileron to keep it from falling.<br />
# Slide aileron assembly with counterweight and bearing bracket out. May have to rotate it slowly to break the friction on the inner control horn; go slowly.<br />
# Lower flaps to access to the nut on the flap drive arm; remove nut and washer. Alternate method: leave arm attached and move flaps up and down as need to get access to the bolts in the following step. Your goal is to get access to the flap drive clamp bolts, an aluminum block that fits around the large torque tube, in the outboard corners of the "hell hole" under the back seat. <br />
# Back off (''do not remove'') the two "set" bolts on each flap drive torque tube clamp and loosen the pinch bolt at the inboard end of the tube. '''The 2 bolts that pin the clamp to the torque tube need only be backed out 3-4 turns, and will sometimes take the threads out with them if backed completely out.''' As per the above instruction, you may need to move the flaps up and down a couple times to get access to all the bolts. Be patient.<br />
# Pull the torque tube out of the clamp block and first (inner) bearing bracket on the wing.<br />
# Remove outer flap/inner aileron bearing bracket (can be a pain to get to the bolt heads. Again, ''be patient'').<br />
# Slide flap out, some care is needed to break loose the RTV at the inboard end. Repeat flap removal on the opposite side.<br />
# Remove sump covers from under wing root.<br />
# Disconnect pitot line on left wing sump area. The (probably clear) plastic hose that couples the two 1/4" aluminum tubes is probably hard, so just cut the plastic line and replace with a new part (it's cheap) later.<br />
# Disconnect the electrical (pitot, strobes, nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.) in the sump area, both sides. If any wires do not have a connector in that area (for example, if someone added strobes), cuss at your A&P and snip the wire cleanly; you'll add a connector upon re-assembly. If more than one wire needs to be cut, cuss out your A&P some more and clearly mark each wire (colored tape, label maker, etc) so you'll know which is which on re-assembly.<br />
# Drain the fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface. '''Alternate de-fueling option:''' buy one of those simple "shaker siphons" (example:http://www.boatshowproducts.com/super-siphon-hose) and use that to siphon out the vast majority of the fuel prior to pulling the sump drain. Makes for a lot less mess.<br />
# Do we need to state the obvious about '''using extreme care when de-fueling'''? The stuff is flammable, you know...<br />
# Before you proceed further, here's a '''general AN-type fittings note!'''. You '''must not''' allow the bulkhead (or any) fitting in the wing (or lines) to rotate while you loosen the line nuts, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib and turn only the line nut. '''Do not''' rely on using leverage on lines or fittings to loosen these AN nuts, '''always''' use backup wrenches. These lines and fittings are not cheap!<br />
# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the small vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': there are two round access covers just fore and aft of the sump cover area that give you access to the areas where these fuel lines go ('''not''' the ones outboard of the wing root seal; remove these two covers each side. Once removed you'll see two AN fuel line elbows, one each fore and aft, both sides; remove these elbows and the hard lines that go from these elbows to the fuel sump.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.<br />
# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.<br />
# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch remove this line.<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing this lines that go to the tanks. However, take care not ensure you do not damage these extending lines as you are removing the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.<br />
# '''All airplanes''': remember you've got wires and hoses that may extend into the wing through holes in the wing root. Do not rotate the wing so much as to damage these.<br />
# With fuel lines loose from wing, rock it as before, nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.<br />
# Grab your favorite beverage and marvel at what you just accomplished. Then get back to work and get that airplane back in the sky!<br />
<br />
There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.<br />
<br />
Placeholder here to convince some Grumman guru to write up instructions on how to remove the horizontal stabilizers (which you need to do if you're transporting the airplane on public roads on a trailer.)</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:4placetrailer.jpg&diff=3739File:4placetrailer.jpg2012-11-25T14:11:19Z<p>GregAmy: Tiger on trailer for transport.</p>
<hr />
<div>Tiger on trailer for transport.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:4placewings.jpg&diff=3738File:4placewings.jpg2012-11-25T14:11:01Z<p>GregAmy: Tiger wings and horizontal stab, removed.</p>
<hr />
<div>Tiger wings and horizontal stab, removed.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:4placewingsremoved.jpg&diff=3737File:4placewingsremoved.jpg2012-11-25T14:10:37Z<p>GregAmy: Tiger with wings removed.</p>
<hr />
<div>Tiger with wings removed.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:4placeflapsremoved.jpg&diff=3736File:4placeflapsremoved.jpg2012-11-25T14:10:18Z<p>GregAmy: Tiger with flaps removed.</p>
<hr />
<div>Tiger with flaps removed.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Disassembly&diff=3735Disassembly2012-11-25T13:58:33Z<p>GregAmy: /* Removing the wings (4 place) */</p>
<hr />
<div>A request on the GG for information on how to remove your plane from a non-airport landing site by disassembling it enough to fit it on a trailer or flat bed wrecker lead to this article and the check lists below.<br />
<br />
[[Image:2-place_no_wings.jpg]]<br />
<br />
== Removing the wings (4 place) ==<br />
<br />
# Buy a bunch of Zip-Locks bags and a Sharpie to keep track of all your hardware as you remove it.<br />
# Remove the wing tips.<br />
# If you're going to be transporting the wings flat, remove the pitot tube and tie-down rings.<br />
# Remove the aileron to control horn bolt at the center of the fuselage under the back seat (two separate through-bolts on the 4-place).<br />
# Remove the bolts on the outer aileron bearing bracket and aft spar. Hold up the outer aileron to keep it from falling.<br />
# Slide aileron assembly with counterweight and bearing bracket out. May have to rotate it slowly to break the friction on the inner control horn; go slowly.<br />
# Lower flaps to access to the nut on the flap drive arm; remove nut and washer. Alternate method: leave arm attached and move flaps up and down as need to get access to the bolts in the following step. Your goal is to get access to the flap drive clamp bolts, an aluminum block that fits around the large torque tube, in the outboard corners of the "hell hole" under the back seat. <br />
# Back off (''do not remove'') the two "set" bolts on each flap drive torque tube clamp and loosen the pinch bolt at the inboard end of the tube. '''The 2 bolts that pin the clamp to the torque tube need only be backed out 3-4 turns, and will sometimes take the threads out with them if backed completely out.''' As per the above instruction, you may need to move the flaps up and down a couple times to get access to all the bolts. Be patient.<br />
# Pull the torque tube out of the clamp block and first (inner) bearing bracket on the wing.<br />
# Remove outer flap/inner aileron bearing bracket (can be a pain to get to the bolt heads. Again, ''be patient'').<br />
# Slide flap out, some care is needed to break loose the RTV at the inboard end. Repeat flap removal on the opposite side.<br />
# Remove sump covers from under wing root.<br />
# Disconnect pitot line on left wing sump area. The (probably clear) plastic hose that couples the two 1/4" aluminum tubes is probably hard, so just cut the plastic line and replace with a new part (it's cheap) later.<br />
# Disconnect the electrical (pitot, strobes, nav lights, stall warning switch, etc.) in the sump area, both sides. If any wires do not have a connector in that area (for example, if someone added strobes), cuss at your A&P and snip the wire cleanly; you'll add a connector upon re-assembly. If more than one wire needs to be cut, cuss out your A&P some more and clearly mark each wire (colored tape, label maker, etc) so you'll know which is which on re-assembly.<br />
# Drain the fuel from wing root sumps by removing the drain valve and using a large diameter funnel. 8-10" is about as small as you can use and not lose fuel on the ground due to any breeze and to the run-off from the edges of the sump, since the threaded boss is flush with the surface. '''Alternate de-fueling option:''' buy one of those simple "shaker siphons" (example:http://www.boatshowproducts.com/super-siphon-hose) and use that to siphon out the vast majority of the fuel prior to pulling the sump drain. Makes for a lot less mess.<br />
# Do we need to state the obvious about '''using extreme care when de-fueling'''? The stuff is flammable, you know...<br />
# Before you proceed further, here's a '''general AN-type fittings note!'''. You '''must not''' allow the bulkhead (or any) fitting in the wing (or lines) to rotate while you loosen the line nuts, so have the appropriate size wrench handy and HOLD that bulkhead nut against the rib and turn only the line nut. '''Do not''' rely on using leverage on lines or fittings to loosen these AN nuts, '''always''' use backup wrenches. These lines and fittings are not cheap!<br />
# Loosen the fuel lines AT THE SUMP and remove the small vent line (some vent lines have a rubber connection between the wing and the sump line, some have a hard aluminum line with a flare at both ends).<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': there are two round access covers just fore and aft of the sump cover area that give you access to the areas where these fuel lines go ('''not''' the ones outboard of the wing root seal; remove these two covers each side. Once removed you'll see two AN fuel line elbows, one each fore and aft, both sides; remove these elbows and the hard lines that go from these elbows to the fuel sump.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': DO NOT take the 19 gallon tank inspection panel screws out! The first bay on the standard tanks is WET! You will access these fittings as you are removing the wings; see notes below.<br />
# Remove the wing panel to center spar bolts (2 each wing, exactly on the fore and aft centerline of the spar). Judicious use of 3/8-drive socket extensions and swivels may be required; six-point sockets are strongly recommended.<br />
# Position one person at the inboard leading edge, one at the inboard trailing edge and one at the wing tip. The person at the wing tip will lift UP slightly to unbind the wing from the weight pulling down on the socket joint of the wing spar to center section. The two inboard people CAREFULLY rock the wing up and down 1/4"-1/2" at a time - not too much, just a little! - while the person at the tip pulls OUT.<br />
# '''19 gallon tanks''': You will need to move the wing out from the wing root '''only''' an inch or so, to allow access to the AN fuel line fittings at the inboard rib on the 19-gallon tanks. Once it's out an inch remove this line.<br />
# '''26-gallon "long range" tanks''': as long as you removed the fuel lines and elbows as described above, you can remove the wing without removing this lines that go to the tanks. However, take care not ensure you do not damage these extending lines as you are removing the wing, they are coming out of a small hole and can get caught.<br />
# '''All airplanes''': remember you've got wires and hoses that may extend into the wing through holes in the wing root. Do not rotate the wing so much as to damage these.<br />
# With fuel lines loose from wing, rock it as before, nose up and down while pulling outboard. The socket joint is just over 1 foot long, so go slow when you get beyond 8-10" away from the wing root. Pull wing panel off and set on a padded surface.<br />
# Grab your favorite beverage and marvel at what you just accomplished. Then get back to work and get that airplane back in the sky!<br />
<br />
There are some differences in removing the 2 place wings. Mostly because of the differences in the fuel system.<br />
<br />
Placeholder here to convince some Grumman guru to write up instructions on how to remove the horizontal stabilizers (which you need to do if you're transporting the airplane on public roads on a trailer.)</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=2307Bondline2007-03-01T02:49:26Z<p>GregAmy: Site doesn't seem to support Java script; reverted back...</p>
<hr />
<div>Bondline is a place for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman Grumman] owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br />
<br />
=== Important Grumman Resources ===<br />
<br />
* [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br />
<br />
* Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list.<br />
<br />
* [http://www.fletchair.com FletchAir] The first source for PMA Grumman parts<br />
<br />
=== Technical Information: ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br />
<br />
* [[General]]<br />
<br />
* [[Maintenance]]<br />
<br />
* [[Operations]]<br />
<br />
* [[337s]]<br />
<br />
In order to better organize the growing collection of information, new pages have been created for sub-topics Maintenance and Operations. Please use the links above to access the new pages.</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=2306Bondline2007-03-01T02:47:49Z<p>GregAmy: Added Webring code</p>
<hr />
<div>Bondline is a place for [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman Grumman] owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br />
<br />
=== Important Grumman Resources ===<br />
<br />
* [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br />
<br />
* Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list.<br />
<br />
* [http://www.fletchair.com FletchAir] The first source for PMA Grumman parts<br />
<br />
=== Technical Information: ===<br />
<br />
[[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br />
<br />
* [[General]]<br />
<br />
* [[Maintenance]]<br />
<br />
* [[Operations]]<br />
<br />
* [[337s]]<br />
<br />
In order to better organize the growing collection of information, new pages have been created for sub-topics Maintenance and Operations. Please use the links above to access the new pages.<br />
<br />
<br />
<script language=javascript type="text/javascript" src="http://ss.webring.com/navbar?f=j;y=gregamy;u=10181796"> </script> <center>Powered by <a href="http://dir.webring.com/rw" target=_top>WebRing</a>.</center> <!--optional--> <noscript><center><table bgcolor=gray cellspacing=0 border=2><tr> <td><table cellpadding=2 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr><td align=center> <font face=arial size=-1>This site is a member of WebRing. <br>To browse visit <a href="http://ss.webring.com/navbar?f=l;y=gregamy;u=10181796"> Here</a>.</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table> </center></noscript></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Creating_a_Grumman-specific_fuel_tank_dip_stick&diff=2189Creating a Grumman-specific fuel tank dip stick2006-06-29T18:39:16Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>I use a "Fuelhawk C-152" from J-Air, available at any FBO. It doesn't matter whether you use this, a paint stick, or your favorite pen, as long as the length of it is sufficient so you don't drop it inot the tank (that would suck). What counts is the height of the fuel from the bottom of the tank, immediately below the cap opening. Sporty's makes a "Universal Fuel Gauge", P/N 5304A. I used a permanent marker for the marks, and it's lasted a few year's worth of fuel dips so far.<br />
<br />
The first number is the gallons useable remaining, the second is the distance from the bottom of the stick (tank). Experience with many fillups has shown this to be a very handy ''GUIDELINE''; I'd entertain any others' experiences to adjust this.<br />
<br />
<br />
{| border="1" style="text-align:center"<br />
! Gallons !! Distance<br />
|-<br />
|7 || Bottom of tank (0")<br />
|-<br />
|8||1/4"<br />
|-<br />
|9||7/16"<br />
|-<br />
|10||11/16"<br />
|-<br />
|11||13/16"<br />
|-<br />
|12||1"<br />
|-<br />
|13||1-1/4"<br />
|-<br />
|14||1-1/2"<br />
|-<br />
|15||1-13/16"<br />
|-<br />
|16||2-1/16"<br />
|-<br />
|17||2-3/8"<br />
|-<br />
|18||2-5/8"<br />
|-<br />
|19||3"<br />
|-<br />
|20||3-1/4"<br />
|-<br />
|21||3-5/8"<br />
|-<br />
|22||4-1/16"<br />
|-<br />
|23||4-1/2"<br />
|-<br />
|24||4-15/16"<br />
|-<br />
|25||5-1/2"<br />
|}</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Creating_a_Grumman-specific_fuel_tank_dip_stick&diff=2188Creating a Grumman-specific fuel tank dip stick2006-06-29T18:26:24Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>I use a "Fuelhawk C-152" from J-Air, available at any FBO. It doesn't matter whether you use this, a paint stick, or your favorite pen, as long as the length of it is sufficient so you don't drop it inot the tank (that would suck). What counts is the height of the fuel from the bottom of the tank, immediately below the cap opening. Sporty's makes a "Universal Fuel Gauge", P/N 5304A. I used a permanent marker for the marks, and it's lasted a few year's worth of fuel dips so far.<br />
<br />
The first number is the gallons useable remaining, the second is the distance from the bottom of the stick (tank). Experience with many fillups has shown this to be a very handy *GUIDELINE*; I'd entertain any others' experiences to adjust this.<br />
<br />
Gallons - Distance<br />
<br />
7 - Bottom of tank (0")<br />
8 - 1/4"<br />
9 - 7/16"<br />
10 - 11/16"<br />
11 - 13/16"<br />
12 - 1"<br />
13 - 1-1/4"<br />
14 - 1-1/2"<br />
15 - 1-13/16"<br />
16 - 2-1/16"<br />
17 - 2-3/8"<br />
18 - 2-5/8"<br />
19 - 3"<br />
20 - 3-1/4"<br />
21 - 3-5/8"<br />
22 - 4-1/16"<br />
23 - 4-1/2"<br />
24 - 4-15/16"<br />
25 - 5-1/2"</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Preflight&diff=2187Preflight2006-06-29T18:24:18Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>Article moved to: [[Sample Binder]]<br />
<br />
[[Creating a Grumman-specific fuel tank dip stick]]</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Concorde_RG_Form_337&diff=2151Concorde RG Form 3372006-05-10T12:48:41Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>[http://www.sbw.org/concorde/ Concorde RG Battery approved Form 337]</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Concorde_RG_Form_337&diff=2150Concorde RG Form 3372006-05-10T12:48:20Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>[http://http://www.sbw.org/concorde/ Concorde RG Battery approved Form 337]</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=337s&diff=2149337s2006-05-10T12:47:29Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>Edit this page to add the title of your 337s to the list below. After you save this page, click the title of your 337 to edit its new page.<br />
<br />
* [[Antenna in Dorsal Fin]].<br />
* [[Additional Gust Lock Setting]].<br />
* [[Canopy Sky Lights]].<br />
* [[Intercom]].<br />
* [[IFR Approach GPS]]<br />
* [[Split Nose Bowl (Stock AA1A)]]<br />
* [[Vernier Throttle AA5-B]]<br />
* [[Electronic Lamp Dimmer AA5-B]]<br />
* [[Concorde RG Form 337]]</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Wheels&diff=1835Wheels2006-02-20T16:51:55Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The Cleveland wheels and brakes on the Grummans are divided into 2 groups with 2 different part numbers.<br />
<br />
The early planes from 69-74 have the brake caliper with the smaller piston (30-55B) and a 40-86A Main wheel.<br />
<br />
The later planes from 75 on have the brake caliper with the larger piston (30-56B) and a 40-88C Main wheel.<br />
<br />
All the single engine Grummans use the part number nose wheel (40-77A).<br />
<br />
A common problem on the 30+ year old wheels is CORROSION. The 70's production planes came with wheels that were painted silver on the outside, and had no paint or corrosion protection on the inside. Its not uncommon to take a wheel apart and find that under the excess grease slung into the inside is corrosion so severe as to render the part unusable.<br />
<br />
Perhaps like THIS:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Wheelcor.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''This wheel is unserviceable and had to be replaced at a cost of several hundred dollars.'''<br />
<br />
This happens from a lack of proper maintenance in 2 ways.<br />
<br />
1) Too much grease is left on the wheel bearings when they are installed, and the excess is extruded into the hollow center of the wheel.<br />
<br />
2) The wrong grease is used, and the components of the grease that cause the lubricant to gel absorb moisture and when held against the bare metal inner surface of the wheel, cause corrosion to rapidly occur.<br />
<br />
As a preventative measure, the wheels should be visually inspected at each annual for condition of the wheel and its data plate, the condition and proper torque of the hardware, and by looking through the axle hole with the bearing removed, the condition of the inside of the wheel. A strong light and some rags to wipe away any grease in the "corners" of the cast stiffeners will help identify areas of concern.<br />
<br />
== '''Wheel Bearings, Dust Seals, and Proper Installation''' ==<br />
<br />
[[User:GregAmy|Greg Amy]] writes:<br />
<br />
There are two different sizes of washers on the main wheels of all the single engine Grummans. The two larger ones (153-0400) are used on the inside bearing, while a single smaller one (153-0300) is used on the outer. I had paid close attention to how it was all installed, and it just didn't look right. Even after reading the Cleveland parts book I was still confused. After talking it over with [http://www.bondline.org/index.php/User:Bob_Steward Bob Steward] I got it worked out. <br />
<br />
I've had an ongoing discussion with my IA on some apparently-increasing damage on my wheels. There's a small lip on the inside of the outer wheel half, just above where the outer bearing race is; it's on this lip that the "C"-shaped felt seal retainer rides. Over the last couple of annuals we have been finding on my Tiger that this lip has been wearing significantly. Upon inspecting the order of installation of the parts it appeared that the outer washer/dust seal was wearing on that area. We inspected the washer and could not see how this wear could be avoided.<br />
<br />
This year I decided to get to the bottom of this. Per the [http://www.parker.com/ag/wbd/cleveland/pdf/wbcov.pdf Cleveland parts book], there are two different sizes of washers; each wheel gets two of the larger ones on the inner side, and one smaller washer per wheel, which goes on the outside. Apparently, however, these washers have been installed incorrectly on my Tiger. Some time back someone had installed one of the larger washers on the outside bearing and we've been dutifully putting them back in that order since (hey it's how they came out!) Unfortunately, this causes two problems: first, the large washer, when placed on the outside, causes the OD of it to ride on the lip in the mag wheel where the seal should ride. Since the washer does not turn this causes significant wear on that lip, and thus the damage to the wheels. Second, using the smaller washer on the inside causes it to get pinched between the axle shaft and the inner bearing; I found wear evidence on the axle shaft on that radius where the bearing is supposed to seat, plus wear marks on the washer itself. Finally, using the larger washer (with a larger ID) on the outside bearing causes the wheel nut to not get a full contact when tightened, and the ID of then is slightly bent (and the bearing is not adequately tightened because of the drag on the washer-to-wheel contact). The larger washers are also further damagedby being "cupped" due to getting forced down to the bearing by the nut. It's really a screwed-up situation all around. <br />
<br />
I've used the current shop as long as I've owned my airplane (1995), and they assure me they pay close attention to the order of removal and installation, but they never questioned if it was correct; thus it appears that this situation has been this way since before I owned it.<br />
<br />
I also suggest this is a common problem: Fletchair sent to me two good used wheels and all four outer wheel halves show evidence of the same problem.<br />
<br />
The risk of this being installed incorrectly is not particularly dire; in addition to ruining perfectly good parts, the worst that that could happen is damaged bearings and/or a slightly loose wheel nut if the washer(s) were to frag themselves. It's probably not a safety-of-flight issue (a safety-of-taxiing issue?) but I believe it's something that needs to be brought to the attention of all folks working on these airplanes; most of the techs I talked to about it have indicated they were not even aware there were different size washers on these Cleveland brakes! Hey, if you don't pay attention and just pick up a washer at random from the pile, you've got roughly a 1/3 chance of getting the first one wrong, then a 50/50 chance of getting the second one wrong if you get the first one right! Those are not particularly good odds, which explains why there's probably a lot of incorrect airplanes out there.<br />
<br />
So remember: the two larger washers go on the inside and the smaller one goes out. I'd be '''very''' interested to hear if others find theirs to be incorrect...<br />
<br />
<br />
''Following are images to better describe what happens to the wheels when the washers are incorrectly installed.''<br />
<br />
A photo of a wheel to better decribe the location, inside the outer wheel half:<br />
<br />
[[Image:DSCN4153.JPG]]<br />
<br />
The effected area, about halfway down to the bearing race, below where the retaining ring seats. Notice the "cut ridge" where the too-large washer "threaded" itself into the magnesium. It's possible that this wheel can be reused, as the C-channel seal retainer should seat properly:<br />
<br />
[[Image:DSCN4154.JPG]] [[Image:DSCN4157.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Here's a situation where the top of the ridge was simply worn down to even with the top of the inner bearing race. In this case the C-channel seal retainer will sit too far in; this wheel half will probably need to be replaced:<br />
<br />
[[Image:DSCN4159.JPG]]</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=Wheels&diff=1834Wheels2006-02-20T16:48:44Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
<hr />
<div>The Cleveland wheels and brakes on the Grummans are divided into 2 groups with 2 different part numbers.<br />
<br />
The early planes from 69-74 have the brake caliper with the smaller piston (30-55B) and a 40-86A Main wheel.<br />
<br />
The later planes from 75 on have the brake caliper with the larger piston (30-56B) and a 40-88C Main wheel.<br />
<br />
All the single engine Grummans use the part number nose wheel (40-77A).<br />
<br />
A common problem on the 30+ year old wheels is CORROSION. The 70's production planes came with wheels that were painted silver on the outside, and had no paint or corrosion protection on the inside. Its not uncommon to take a wheel apart and find that under the excess grease slung into the inside is corrosion so severe as to render the part unusable.<br />
<br />
Perhaps like THIS:<br />
<br />
[[Image:Wheelcor.jpg]]<br />
<br />
'''This wheel is unserviceable and had to be replaced at a cost of several hundred dollars.'''<br />
<br />
This happens from a lack of proper maintenance in 2 ways.<br />
<br />
1) Too much grease is left on the wheel bearings when they are installed, and the excess is extruded into the hollow center of the wheel.<br />
<br />
2) The wrong grease is used, and the components of the grease that cause the lubricant to gel absorb moisture and when held against the bare metal inner surface of the wheel, cause corrosion to rapidly occur.<br />
<br />
As a preventative measure, the wheels should be visually inspected at each annual for condition of the wheel and its data plate, the condition and proper torque of the hardware, and by looking through the axle hole with the bearing removed, the condition of the inside of the wheel. A strong light and some rags to wipe away any grease in the "corners" of the cast stiffeners will help identify areas of concern.<br />
<br />
== '''Wheel Bearings, Dust Seals, and Proper Installation''' ==<br />
<br />
[[User:GregAmy|Greg Amy]] writes:<br />
<br />
There are two different sizes of washers on the main wheels of all the single engine Grummans. The two larger ones (153-0400) are used on the inside bearing, while a single smaller one (153-0300) is used on the outer. I had paid close attention to how it was all installed, and it just didn't look right. Even after reading the Cleveland parts book I was still confused. After talking it over with [http://www.bondline.org/index.php/User:Bob_Steward Bob Steward] I got it worked out. <br />
<br />
I've had an ongoing discussion with my IA on some apparently-increasing damage on my wheels. There's a small lip on the inside of the outer wheel half, just above where the outer bearing race is; it's on this lip that the "C"-shaped felt seal retainer rides. Over the last couple of annuals we have been finding on my Tiger that this lip has been wearing significantly. Upon inspecting the order of installation of the parts it appeared that the outer washer/dust seal was wearing on that area. We inspected the washer and could not see how this wear could be avoided.<br />
<br />
This year I decided to get to the bottom of this. Per the [http://www.parker.com/ag/wbd/cleveland/pdf/wbcov.pdf Cleveland parts book], there are two different sizes of washers; each wheel gets two of the larger ones on the inner side, and one smaller washer per wheel, which goes on the outside. Apparently, however, these washers have been installed incorrectly on my Tiger. Some time back someone had installed one of the larger washers on the outside bearing and we've been dutifully putting them back in that order since (hey it's how they came out!) Unfortunately, this causes two problems: first, the large washer, when placed on the outside, causes the OD of it to ride on the lip in the mag wheel where the seal should ride. Since the washer does not turn this causes significant wear on that lip, and thus the damage to the wheels. Second, using the smaller washer on the inside causes it to get pinched between the axle shaft and the inner bearing; I found wear evidence on the axle shaft on that radius where the bearing is supposed to seat, plus wear marks on the washer itself. Finally, using the larger washer (with a larger ID) on the outside bearing causes the wheel nut to not get a full contact when tightened, and the ID of then is slightly bent (and the bearing is not adequately tightened because of the drag on the washer-to-wheel contact). The larger washers are also further damagedby being "cupped" due to getting forced down to the bearing by the nut. It's really a screwed-up situation all around. <br />
<br />
I've used the current shop as long as I've owned my airplane (1995), and they assure me they pay close attention to the order of removal and installation, but they never questioned if it was correct; thus it appears that this situation has been this way since before I owned it.<br />
<br />
I also suggest this is a common problem: Fletchair sent to me two good used wheels and all four outer wheel halves show evidence of the same problem.<br />
<br />
The risk of this being installed incorrectly is not particularly dire; in addition to ruining perfectly good parts, the worst that that could happen is damaged bearings and/or a slightly loose wheel nut if the washer(s) were to frag themselves. It's probably not a safety-of-flight issue (a safety-of-taxiing issue?) but I believe it's something that needs to be brought to the attention of all folks working on these airplanes; most of the techs I talked to about it have indicated they were not even aware there were different size washers on these Cleveland brakes! Hey, if you don't pay attention and just pick up a washer at random from the pile, you've got roughly a 1/3 chance of getting the first one wrong, then a 50/50 chance of getting the second one wrong if you get the first one right! Those are not particularly good odds, which explains why there's probably a lot of incorrect airplanes out there.<br />
<br />
So remember: the two larger washers go on the inside and the smaller one goes out. I'd be '''very''' interested to hear if others find theirs to be incorrect...<br />
<br />
<br />
''Following are images to better describe what happens to the wheels when the washers are incorrectly installed.''<br />
<br />
A photo of a wheel to better decribe the location, inside the outer wheel half:<br />
<br />
[[Image:DSCN4153.JPG]]<br />
<br />
The affected area; it's the area about halfway down to the bearing race, below where the retaining ring seats. Notice the "cut ridge" where the too-large washer "threaded" itself into the magnesium. It's possible that this wheel can be reused, as the C-channel seal retainer should seat properly:<br />
<br />
[[Image:DSCN4154.JPG]] [[Image:DSCN4157.JPG]]<br />
<br />
Here's a situation where the top of the ridge was simply worn down even to the top of the inner bearing race. In this case the C-channel seal retainer will sit too far in; this wheel half will probably need to be replaced:<br />
<br />
[[Image:DSCN4159.JPG]]</div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:DSCN4159.JPG&diff=1832File:DSCN4159.JPG2006-02-20T16:38:04Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
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<div></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:DSCN4158.JPG&diff=1831File:DSCN4158.JPG2006-02-20T16:37:47Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
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<div></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:DSCN4157.JPG&diff=1830File:DSCN4157.JPG2006-02-20T16:37:31Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
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<div></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:DSCN4155.JPG&diff=1829File:DSCN4155.JPG2006-02-20T16:37:13Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
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<div></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:DSCN4154.JPG&diff=1828File:DSCN4154.JPG2006-02-20T16:36:56Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
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<div></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=File:DSCN4153.JPG&diff=1827File:DSCN4153.JPG2006-02-20T16:36:35Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
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<div></div>GregAmyhttps://bondline.org/index.php?title=AA5B&diff=1727AA5B2006-02-07T18:43:53Z<p>GregAmy: </p>
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<div>The [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman_American_AA-5#AA-5B_Tiger AA5B Tiger] was manufactured from 1975 to 1979 by Grumman American (later Gulfstream American.) Gulfstream ceased production of all piston-engined aircraft in 1979 and the highly successful Tiger design went out of production after 1323 aircraft had been delivered.<br />
<br />
{|border="1"<br />
|+AA5B Serial Numbers<br />
!Year<br />
!First<br />
!Last<br />
|-<br />
|1975||AA5B-0001||AA5B-0110<br />
|-<br />
|1976||AA5B-0111||AA5B-0399<br />
|-<br />
|1977||AA5B-0400||AA5B-0692<br />
|-<br />
|1978||AA5B-0693||AA5B-0905<br />
|-<br />
|1979||AA5B-0906||AA5B-1323<br />
|}<br />
<br />
:<br />
<br />
{|border="1"<br />
|+Bondline Contributors Who Own or Fly AA5Bs<br />
!Name<br />
!Year<br />
!SN<br />
!N Number<br />
!Handle<br />
|-<br />
|Gil Alexander||1977||AA5B-0635||N12GA||Tigger (was N28478)<br />
|-<br />
|[[User:9242Z|Kevin Olinger]]||1976||AA5B-0183||N9242Z||<br />
|-<br />
|Greg Amy||1977||AA5B-0537||N81140||<br />
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|}</div>GregAmy Deprecated: Constant E_STRICT is deprecated since 8.4, the error level was removed in /var/www/bondline1_39_17/vendor/wikimedia/at-ease/src/Wikimedia/AtEase/AtEase.php on line 50