https://bondline.org/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=68.166.31.129 2026-11-11T01:01:24Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.46.2 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1502 2006-01-14T20:59:33Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors.<br /> <br /> '''Elevator and Rudder'''<br /> <br /> The adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> '''Tip:''' The lower rudder bearing is frequently worn or extruded from cold flow as a result of the constant tension of the rudder cables. To test for this, slowly push the rudder to the stop, such that the control horn JUST touches the stop. Now look closely at the lower bearing and support bracket, and gently push the rudder more firmly against the stop. You will almost certainly see some movement of the rudder torque tube in the bearing. If so, then the rudder will move beyond the initial limits set by the stop as the pivot point moves and changes the geometry of the hinge and stop. A new bearing insert will tighten the clearance up significantly.<br /> <br /> '''Elevator Trim'''<br /> <br /> The trim tab can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> '''Flaps'''<br /> <br /> The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel. If the flap motor and drive assembly is moving the flaps too much or too little travel, then its probably a limit switch problem, either adjustment or failure. If the correct amount of travel in total degrees of movement is correct, then the flap drive mechanicsm can be adjusted via the heim joints on each side to place the flap in the correct position at the UP stop. The Heim joints, one pair for each side, are located below and just outboard of the back seat cushion. The seat bottom must be flipped over and the canvas cover removed to be able to see the adjustments. Begin by loosening the jam nut on the threaded area between the joints. Then remove the bolt in the top or bottom heim joint and allow the joint to disconnect from the flap arms. Rotate the heim joints relative to one another. Closer together raises the flaps and further apart extends them. Insert the bolt to hold the joint to the flap drive arm and check position of the flap. Repeat until the flap is positioned correctly per the template or protractor. Secure the joint by installing the nut removed earlier and properly snug the jam nut on the threads between the joints. Repeat for the opposite side.<br /> <br /> '''Tip''' Many planes have excessive play in the flaps. This seems especially prevalent on the AA-5 series, which have a more complex flap drive and more places to allow wear and increase the play. This would also be a good time to verify that the aileron torque tube is accurately centered within the flap torque tube. This keeps the pins on the special flap drive bolts from possibly wearing a groove in the aileron torque tube.<br /> <br /> '''Ailerons'''<br /> <br /> Rigging the ailerons is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar. Any of these can cause large errors in the angular position of the ailerons, and also synchronization problems side to side.<br /> <br /> Cable tensioning requires a cable [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/cablemeter.php tensiometer], which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start. Additionally you will need to be familiar with the [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628b.html correct way to safety wire a turnbuckle], you might be surprised at the number of A&amp;Ps that can't do it right without looking at the book. The advantage of the [http://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/Products/?PartNumber=MS21256-2&amp; MS21256] style safety clips is that they are quick and easy to install correctly, and they [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628a.html can be installed one-handed in a tight spot] where trying to wrap safety wire would be very difficult. I've seen a mix of turnbuckles installed on the fleet. Some have the groove in the threads for the safety clips, and some don't.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1501 2006-01-14T20:48:42Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors.<br /> <br /> '''Elevator and Rudder'''<br /> <br /> The adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> '''Tip:''' The lower rudder bearing is frequently worn or extruded from cold flow as a result of the constant tension of the rudder cables. To test for this, slowly push the rudder to the stop, such that the control horn JUST touches the stop. Now look closely at the lower bearing and support bracket, and gently push the rudder more firmly against the stop. You will almost certainly see some movement of the rudder torque tube in the bearing. If so, then the rudder will move beyond the initial limits set by the stop as the pivot point moves and changes the geometry of the hinge and stop. A new bearing insert will tighten the clearance up significantly.<br /> <br /> '''Elevator Trim'''<br /> <br /> The trim tab can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel. If the flap motor and drive assembly is moving the flaps too much or too little travel, then its probably a limit switch problem, either adjustment or failure. If the correct amount of travel in total degrees of movement is correct, then the flap drive mechanicsm can be adjusted via the heim joints on each side to place the flap in the correct position at the UP stop. An note on adjusting the flaps, many planes have excessive play in the flaps. This seems especially prevalent on the AA-5 series, which have a more complex flap drive and more places to allow wear and increase the play. This would also be a good time to verify that the aileron torque tube is accurately centered within the flap torque tube. This keeps the pins on the special flap drive bolts from possibly wearing a groove in the aileron torque tube.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar.<br /> <br /> Cable tensioning requires a cable [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/cablemeter.php tensiometer], which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start. Additionally you will need to be familiar with the [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628b.html correct way to safety wire a turnbuckle], you might be surprised at the number of A&amp;Ps that can't do it right without looking at the book. The advantage of the [http://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/Products/?PartNumber=MS21256-2&amp; MS21256] style safety clips is that they are quick and easy to install correctly, and they [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628a.html can be installed one-handed in a tight spot] where trying to wrap safety wire would be very difficult. I've seen a mix of turnbuckles installed on the fleet. Some have the groove in the threads for the safety clips, and some don't.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Talk:Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1500 2006-01-14T20:30:24Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>The Rigging Check and Adjustment page is intended to get owners thinking about checking their plane and then correcting the problems found. The goal is to explain the process and to show that its not difficult to correct the common rigging errors.</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1499 2006-01-14T18:48:21Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel. If the flap motor and drive assembly is moving the flaps too much or too little travel, then its probably a limit switch problem, either adjustment or failure. If the correct amount of travel in total degrees of movement is correct, then the flap drive mechanicsm can be adjusted via the heim joints on each side to place the flap in the correct position at the UP stop. An note on adjusting the flaps, many planes have excessive play in the flaps. This seems especially prevalent on the AA-5 series, which have a more complex flap drive and more places to allow wear and increase the play. This would also be a good time to verify that the aileron torque tube is accurately centered within the flap torque tube. This keeps the pins on the special flap drive bolts from possibly wearing a groove in the aileron torque tube.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar.<br /> <br /> Cable tensioning requires a cable [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/cablemeter.php tensiometer], which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start. Additionally you will need to be familiar with the [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628b.html correct way to safety wire a turnbuckle], you might be surprised at the number of A&amp;Ps that can't do it right without looking at the book. The advantage of the [http://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/Products/?PartNumber=MS21256-2&amp; MS21256] style safety clips is that they are quick and easy to install correctly, and they [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628a.html can be installed one-handed in a tight spot] where trying to wrap safety wire would be very difficult. I've seen a mix of turnbuckles installed on the fleet. Some have the groove in the threads for the safety clips, and some don't.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1498 2006-01-14T18:46:06Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel. If the flap motor and drive assembly is moving the flaps too much or too little travel, then its probably a limit switch problem, either adjustment or failure. If the correct amount of travel in total degrees of movement is correct, then the flap drive mechanicsm can be adjusted via the heim joints on each side to place the flap in the correct position at the UP stop. An note on adjusting the flaps, many planes have excessive play in the flaps. This seems especially prevalent on the AA-5 series, which have a more complex flap drive and more places to allow wear and increase the play. This would also be a good time to verify that the aileron torque tube is accurately centered within the flap torque tube. This keeps the pins on the special flap drive bolts from possibly wearing a groove in the aileron torque tube.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar.<br /> <br /> Cable tensioning requires a cable tensiometer, which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start. Additionally you will need to be familiar with the [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628b.html correct way to safety wire a turnbuckle], you might be surprised at the number of A&amp;Ps that can't do it right without looking at the book. The advantage of the [http://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/Products/?PartNumber=MS21256-2&amp; MS21256] style safety clips is that they are quick and easy to install correctly, and they [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628a.html can be installed one-handed in a tight spot] where trying to wrap safety wire would be very difficult. I've seen a mix of turnbuckles installed on the fleet. Some have the groove in the threads for the safety clips, and some don't.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Talk:Charging_Systems&diff=1497 2006-01-14T18:45:14Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Charging_Systems&diff=1496 2006-01-14T18:44:57Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Mechanical Difficulty:'''[[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [Bob Steward writes]<br /> The Basics:<br /> The battery stores power chemically, the alternator converts the engine's rotating motion into electrical energy, the Voltage Regulator (also known as the &quot;alternator Control Unit&quot;, or ACU) controls the alternator's output to keep the battery charged, but not over charged (which results in boiling out its acid).<br /> <br /> Your battery stopped charging during your last flight. You shed loads by turning off unneeded equipment until you arrived at the airport and landed normally. Congrats on handling the inflight portion properly. Now how do you get it repaired?<br /> <br /> You need to find out exactly which part failed. The usual FBO response is to replace the alternator AND the voltage regulator. They don't have to do much troubleshooting and they sell lots of expensive parts. A Field Rep for [http://www.kellyaerospace.com/index.html Kelly Aerospace], one of the largest OH shops for alternators, came to an FAA Safety meeting that I attended. He told us that 8 out of 10 alternators returned to them as cores for OH worked when tested before disassembly. He stated that we as A&amp;P mechanics in the field were NOT doing our job properly, and that we needed to apply better troubleshooting techniques rather than replace so many functional alternators.<br /> <br /> If you have a Volt-Ohm meter, you can save lots of time and money. Inexpensive voltmeters are widely available from such vendors as [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92020 Harbor Freight] and [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103534 Radio Shack], often for as little as $10.<br /> <br /> To help you know what wire goes where, the maintenance manual has detailed schematics. Gary Vogt has re-drawn the [http://www.aucountry.com/Team_Folder/Technical/Wire_76-77.html 76-77] and the [http://www.aucountry.com/Team_Folder/Technical/Wire_78-79.html 78-79] Tiger/Cheetah schematics in a little less technical detail.<br /> <br /> All the troubleshooting described below is done with the engine OFF and the keys in your pocket.<br /> <br /> Open the cowl and locate the voltage regulator. On Grumman American singles its on the passenger side just inboard of the motor mount attach point, directly above the battery. On AA-5x you'll see a connector on the bottom with several wires. Look closely and you'll see that they are marked with letters on the regulator.<br /> <br /> Visually check all of the wires and their crimped fittings. Pull gently on the crimped fittings.. none of them should be loose. After 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Look for breaks in the shielding pigtails.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;S&quot; terminal and turn on the Master. Using your VOM, measure the voltage between the S terminal and a good ground such as the battery's negative terminal. The VOM should read close to 12.6 volts on a fully charged battery. In this example, however, your battery is not fully charged after the in-flight failure of the charging system, so a measurement equal to 10 volts or greater is acceptable. If an acceptable voltage is present, then your Master Switch, Master Relay, Alt Field Circuit Breaker and the associated wiring are all working well enough to charge the battery from the alternator. Therefore, your problem is elsewhere. Continue on.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;F&quot; terminal and measure the voltage just as you did at the &quot;S&quot; terminal. As before, if the measured voltage is within a couple of volts of the nominal battery voltage, then the regulator is correctly trying to &quot;excite&quot; the alternator field so that the alternator can produce an output. Therefore, your problem is elsewhere. Continue on.<br /> <br /> Reset the VOM to measure resistance instead of voltage. Remove the &quot;F&quot; wire from the regulator and measure between the wire and ground. You should measure less than 10 ohms of resistance, and usually about 5 ohms. If you have significantly higher resistance (say 20 ohms or more) then there are problems with the alternator field or brushes, or possibly the wiring going to the alternator is in bad condition. A reading of less than 5 ohms, would indicate a short in the Field wire or inside the alternator. Otherwise, since you have the appropriate resistance between the &quot;F&quot; wire and ground, you are through checking the easy stuff, and are ready to pull the nose bowl.<br /> <br /> '''Turn OFF the Master at this time.''' We are through with the powered portion of the testing, so turn off the Master switch.<br /> <br /> Right about now you are wishing that you had installed the split nose bowl STC, because without it you have to remove the propeller to gains access to the alternator.<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Up to this point, we were just CHECKING electrical measurements without any actual disassembly of the plane. If you do not have the split nose bowl STC, then this is the point at which you will require A&amp;P supervision to complete the testing, removal and replacement of the alternator, prop, mounting bracket, etc. [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgFAR.nsf/0/AC9BED30F1D032B9852566AB006BC89C?OpenDocument FAR 43 Appendix A paragraph (c)(19)] permits the owner/pilot to remove and install cowlings, if the prop does not have to be removed, without A&amp;P supervision, after demonstrating the ability to do it correctly.<br /> <br /> On Travelers before 75, you can check the wiring by removing the screws on the right-hand lower cowling and letting the cowl side tip out from the firewall and nose bowl just enough to enable you to reach under the front cylinder and touch the wires on the back of the alternator. On 75 Travelers with the &quot;Cheetah nose&quot; and on all Cheetahs and Tigers, you have to remove the nose bowl to continue troubleshooting. That's OK, because you have already narrowed the source of the problem to that area anyway.<br /> <br /> With the nose bowl off, or at least the lower nose off if you have the split nose, now remove the alternator belt from the pulley. Our testing so far has not ruled out a worn, loose, or missing alternator belt, so make certain that the belt is in good condition and properly tensioned. <br /> <br /> The required amount of tension on this belt is often underestimated. Yhe amount of power required to turn the alternator increases as the SQUARE of its output (charging) current! Lycoming's service information was updated a couple years back, and they now suggest setting belt tension by checking to see if the belt will slip before reaching a specified torque. You can check this by putting a socket on the alternator drive pulley nut and setting a torque wrench to 540 in-lb (45 ft-lb), and then holding the prop and trying to turn the alternator (CCW when viewing it from the front) with the torque wrench. The wrench should indicate 540 in-lb BEFORE the pulley slips. The older method mentioned in the Maintenance Manual, no longer favored by Lycoming, was to press in the center of the belt span between the pulleys and measure the deflection. New belts were to have less deflection than those that were worn. Refer to the maintenance manual if you don't have a torque wrench handy.<br /> <br /> If the belt itself is in good condition and is tensioned correctly, the next step is to remove the alternator for inspection. First release the tension on the belt. To do this, cut the safety wire on the bolt holding the alternator to the bracket, then loosen the bolt enough so that you are able to push the alternator up, thus relieving the belt tension.<br /> <br /> In the next step, you remove the alternator, which is quite heavy. If you have a portable service table or stand, now would be a good time to position it under the alternator. Now remove the big bolt at the bottom of the alternator (the one that holds it to the engine mounting bracket). While supporting the alternator so the wiring is not stressed, remove the bolt that was safety wired. The alternator should slide off the engine mounting bracket and be attached only by the wiring on the back. <br /> <br /> Carefully turn the alternator around, and lift the rubber boot that hides the connection of the big wire to the back of the alternator. This is a VERY common failure point on the aging fleet. The wire breaks off the ring lug that is bolted down, and the alternator output is prevented from flowing back to the battery by the broken connection. Look also at the small wire that is bolted to the same connection. This is the &quot;A&quot; or sense wire which tells the Voltage Regulator what the alternator is doing. The sense wire is also a common failure point, though not as often as the larger output wire. Look at the other small wire which attaches to a different post. This is the &quot;F&quot; or field wire. If the resistance checks were normal earlier, then this wire should be fine; nevertheless, after 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Inspect the wires for cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Make sure the shield grounds at both ends of the F and A wires are in good condition and still connected, and check the sheilding pigtails behind the alternator, they can rub on the baffling and get worn through.<br /> <br /> If there are no obvious failures in the wiring, you need to mark them and remove them so that the alternator can be tested at a shop. Pep-Boys and AutoZone will check your alternator for free. Tell them its from a 71 Ford Pickup with AC. That is the actual original application for the DOFF-10300J alternator on your plane.<br /> <br /> After the alternator is spun up and bench tested, all but the rarest and intermittent failures will have been diagnosed, and you will be repairing JUST the wiring, or replacing the alternator or the voltage regulator, and NOT spending money on needless repairs.<br /> <br /> Prior to installing the alternator, carefully inspect the U shaped mounting bracket for cracks. They are prone to crack across the middle of the U, often into one of the bolt holes. Replacement brackets are available from any Lycoming distributor or from FletchAir.</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Charging_Systems&diff=1495 2006-01-14T18:42:09Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Mechanical Difficulty:'''[[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [Bob Steward writes]<br /> The Basics:<br /> The battery stores power chemically, the alternator converts the engine's rotating motion into electrical energy, the Voltage Regulator (also known as the &quot;alternator Control Unit&quot;, or ACU) controls the alternator's output to keep the battery charged, but not over charged (which results in boiling out its acid).<br /> <br /> Your battery stopped charging during your last flight. You shed loads by turning off unneeded equipment until you arrived at the airport and landed normally. Congrats on handling the inflight portion properly. Now how do you get it repaired?<br /> <br /> You need to find out exactly which part failed. The usual FBO response is to replace the alternator AND the voltage regulator. They don't have to do much troubleshooting and they sell lots of expensive parts. A Field Rep for [http://www.kellyaerospace.com/index.html Kelly Aerospace], one of the largest OH shops for alternators, came to an FAA Safety meeting that I attended. He told us that 8 out of 10 alternators returned to them as cores for OH worked when tested before disassembly. He stated that we as A&amp;P mechanics in the field were NOT doing our job properly, and that we needed to apply better troubleshooting techniques rather than replace so many functional alternators.<br /> <br /> If you have a Volt-Ohm meter, you can save lots of time and money. Inexpensive voltmeters are widely available from such vendors as [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92020 Harbor Freight] and [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103534 Radio Shack], often for as little as $10.<br /> <br /> To help you know what wire goes where, the maintenance manual has detailed schematics. Gary Vogt has re-drawn the [http://www.aucountry.com/Team_Folder/Technical/Wire_76-77.html 76-77] and the [http://www.aucountry.com/Team_Folder/Technical/Wire_78-79.html 78-79] Tiger/Cheetah schematics in a little less technical detail.<br /> <br /> All the troubleshooting described below is done with the engine OFF and the keys in your pocket.<br /> <br /> Open the cowl and locate the voltage regulator. On Grumman American singles its on the passenger side just inboard of the motor mount attach point, directly above the battery. On AA-5x you'll see a connector on the bottom with several wires. Look closely and you'll see that they are marked with letters on the regulator.<br /> <br /> Visually check all of the wires and their crimped fittings. Pull gently on the crimped fittings.. none of them should be loose. After 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Look for breaks in the shielding pigtails.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;S&quot; terminal and turn on the Master. Using your VOM, measure the voltage between the S terminal and a good ground such as the battery's negative terminal. The VOM should read close to 12.6 volts on a fully charged battery. In this example, however, your battery is not fully charged after the in-flight failure of the charging system, so a measurement equal to 10 volts or greater is acceptable. If an acceptable voltage is present, then your Master Switch, Master Relay, Alt Field Circuit Breaker and the associated wiring are all working well enough to charge the battery from the alternator. Therefore, your problem is elsewhere. Continue on.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;F&quot; terminal and measure the voltage just as you did at the &quot;S&quot; terminal. As before, if the measured voltage is within a couple of volts of the nominal battery voltage, then the regulator is correctly trying to &quot;excite&quot; the alternator field so that the alternator can produce an output. Therefore, your problem is elsewhere. Continue on.<br /> <br /> Reset the VOM to measure resistance instead of voltage. Remove the &quot;F&quot; wire from the regulator and measure between the wire and ground. You should measure less than 10 ohms of resistance, and usually about 5 ohms. If you have significantly higher resistance (say 20 ohms or more) then there are problems with the alternator field or brushes, or possibly the wiring going to the alternator is in bad condition. A reading of less than 5 ohms, would indicate a short in the Field wire or inside the alternator. Otherwise, since you have the appropriate resistance between the &quot;F&quot; wire and ground, you are through checking the easy stuff, and are ready to pull the nose bowl.<br /> <br /> '''Turn OFF the Master at this time.''' We are through with the powered portion of the testing, so turn off the Master switch.<br /> <br /> Right about now you are wishing that you had installed the split nose bowl STC, because without it you have to remove the propeller to gains access to the alternator.<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Up to this point, we were just CHECKING electrical measurements without any actual disassembly of the plane. If you do not have the split nose bowl STC, then this is the point at which you will require A&amp;P supervision to complete the testing, removal and replacement of the alternator, prop, mounting bracket, etc. [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgFAR.nsf/0/AC9BED30F1D032B9852566AB006BC89C?OpenDocument FAR 43 Appendix A paragraph (c)(19)] permits the owner/pilot to remove and install cowlings, if the prop does not have to be removed, without A&amp;P supervision, after demonstrating the ability to do it correctly.<br /> <br /> On Travelers before 75, you can check the wiring by removing the screws on the right-hand lower cowling and letting the cowl side tip out from the firewall and nose bowl just enough to enable you to reach under the front cylinder and touch the wires on the back of the alternator. On 75 Travelers with the &quot;Cheetah nose&quot; and on all Cheetahs and Tigers, you have to remove the nose bowl to continue troubleshooting. That's OK, because you have already narrowed the source of the problem to that area anyway.<br /> <br /> With the nose bowl off, or at least the lower nose off if you have the split nose, now remove the alternator belt from the pulley. Our testing so far has not ruled out a worn, loose, or missing alternator belt, so make certain that the belt is in good condition and properly tensioned. <br /> <br /> The required amount of tension on this belt is often underestimated. Yhe amount of power required to turn the alternator increases as the SQUARE of its output (charging) current! Lycoming's service information was updated a couple years back, and they now suggest setting belt tension by checking to see if the belt will slip before reaching a specified torque. You can check this by putting a socket on the alternator drive pulley nut and setting a torque wrench to 540 in-lb (45 ft-lb), and then holding the prop and trying to turn the alternator (CCW when viewing it from the front) with the torque wrench. The wrench should indicate 540 in-lb BEFORE the pulley slips. The older method mentioned in the Maintenance Manual, no longer favored by Lycoming, was to press in the center of the belt span between the pulleys and measure the deflection. New belts were to have less deflection than those that were worn. Refer to the maintenance manual if you don't have a torque wrench handy.<br /> <br /> If the belt itself is in good condition and is tensioned correctly, the next step is to remove the alternator for inspection. First release the tension on the belt. To do this, cut the safety wire on the bolt holding the alternator to the bracket, then loosen the bolt enough so that you are able to push the alternator up, thus relieving the belt tension.<br /> <br /> In the next step, you remove the alternator, which is quite heavy. If you have a portable service table or stand, now would be a good time to position it under the alternator. Now remove the big bolt at the bottom of the alternator (the one that holds it to the engine mounting bracket). While supporting the alternator so the wiring is not stressed, remove the bolt that was safety wired. The alternator should slide off the engine mounting bracket and be attached only by the wiring on the back. <br /> <br /> Carefully turn the alternator around, and lift the rubber boot that hides the connection of the big wire to the back of the alternator. This is a VERY common failure point on the aging fleet. The wire breaks off the ring lug that is bolted down, and the alternator output is prevented from flowing back to the battery by the broken connection. Look also at the small wire that is bolted to the same connection. This is the &quot;A&quot; or sense wire which tells the Voltage Regulator what the alternator is doing. The sense wire is also a common failure point, though not as often as the larger output wire. Look at the other small wire which attaches to a different post. This is the &quot;F&quot; or field wire. If the resistance checks were normal earlier, then this wire should be fine; nevertheless, after 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Check the sheilding pigtails behind the alternator, they can rub on the baffling and get worn through.<br /> <br /> If there are no obvious failures in the wiring, you need to mark them and remove them so that the alternator can be tested at a shop. Pep-Boys and AutoZone will check your alternator for free. Tell them its from a 71 Ford Pickup with AC. That is the actual original application for the DOFF-10300J alternator on your plane.<br /> <br /> After the alternator is spun up and bench tested, all but the rarest and intermittent failures will have been diagnosed, and you will be repairing JUST the wiring, or replacing the alternator or the voltage regulator, and NOT spending money on needless repairs.<br /> <br /> Prior to installing the alternator, carefully inspect the U shaped mounting bracket for cracks. They are prone to crack across the middle of the U, often into one of the bolt holes. Replacement brackets are available from any Lycoming distributor or from FletchAir.</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Talk:Charging_Systems&diff=1494 2006-01-14T18:40:28Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>Also visually check for broken shields at the alternator - just found one 2 days ago on my Tiger...:^)</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Charging_Systems&diff=1493 2006-01-14T18:39:58Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Mechanical Difficulty:'''[[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [Bob Steward writes]<br /> The Basics:<br /> The battery stores power chemically, the alternator converts the engine's rotating motion into electrical energy, the Voltage Regulator (also known as the &quot;alternator Control Unit&quot;, or ACU) controls the alternator's output to keep the battery charged, but not over charged (which results in boiling out its acid).<br /> <br /> Your battery stopped charging during your last flight. You shed loads by turning off unneeded equipment until you arrived at the airport and landed normally. Congrats on handling the inflight portion properly. Now how do you get it repaired?<br /> <br /> You need to find out exactly which part failed. The usual FBO response is to replace the alternator AND the voltage regulator. They don't have to do much troubleshooting and they sell lots of expensive parts. A Field Rep for [http://www.kellyaerospace.com/index.html Kelly Aerospace], one of the largest OH shops for alternators, came to an FAA Safety meeting that I attended. He told us that 8 out of 10 alternators returned to them as cores for OH worked when tested before disassembly. He stated that we as A&amp;P mechanics in the field were NOT doing our job properly, and that we needed to apply better troubleshooting techniques rather than replace so many functional alternators.<br /> <br /> If you have a Volt-Ohm meter, you can save lots of time and money. Inexpensive voltmeters are widely available from such vendors as [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92020 Harbor Freight] and [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103534 Radio Shack], often for as little as $10.<br /> <br /> To help you know what wire goes where, the maintenance manual has detailed schematics. Gary Vogt has re-drawn the [http://www.aucountry.com/Team_Folder/Technical/Wire_76-77.html 76-77] and the [http://www.aucountry.com/Team_Folder/Technical/Wire_78-79.html 78-79] Tiger/Cheetah schematics in a little less technical detail.<br /> <br /> All the troubleshooting described below is done with the engine OFF and the keys in your pocket.<br /> <br /> Open the cowl and locate the voltage regulator. On Grumman American singles its on the passenger side just inboard of the motor mount attach point, directly above the battery. On AA-5x you'll see a connector on the bottom with several wires. Look closely and you'll see that they are marked with letters on the regulator.<br /> <br /> Visually check all of the wires and their crimped fittings. Pull gently on the crimped fittings.. none of them should be loose. After 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Look for breaks in the shielding pigtails.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;S&quot; terminal and turn on the Master. Using your VOM, measure the voltage between the S terminal and a good ground such as the battery's negative terminal. The VOM should read close to 12.6 volts on a fully charged battery. In this example, however, your battery is not fully charged after the in-flight failure of the charging system, so a measurement equal to 10 volts or greater is acceptable. If an acceptable voltage is present, then your Master Switch, Master Relay, Alt Field Circuit Breaker and the associated wiring are all working well enough to charge the battery from the alternator. Therefore, your problem is elsewhere. Continue on.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;F&quot; terminal and measure the voltage just as you did at the &quot;S&quot; terminal. As before, if the measured voltage is within a couple of volts of the nominal battery voltage, then the regulator is correctly trying to &quot;excite&quot; the alternator field so that the alternator can produce an output. Therefore, your problem is elsewhere. Continue on.<br /> <br /> Reset the VOM to measure resistance instead of voltage. Remove the &quot;F&quot; wire from the regulator and measure between the wire and ground. You should measure less than 10 ohms of resistance, and usually about 5 ohms. If you have significantly higher resistance (say 20 ohms or more) then there are problems with the alternator field or brushes, or possibly the wiring going to the alternator is in bad condition. A reading of less than 5 ohms, would indicate a short in the Field wire or inside the alternator. Otherwise, since you have the appropriate resistance between the &quot;F&quot; wire and ground, you are through checking the easy stuff, and are ready to pull the nose bowl.<br /> <br /> '''Turn OFF the Master at this time.''' We are through with the powered portion of the testing, so turn off the Master switch.<br /> <br /> Right about now you are wishing that you had installed the split nose bowl STC, because without it you have to remove the propeller to gains access to the alternator.<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Up to this point, we were just CHECKING electrical measurements without any actual disassembly of the plane. If you do not have the split nose bowl STC, then this is the point at which you will require A&amp;P supervision to complete the testing, removal and replacement of the alternator, prop, mounting bracket, etc. [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgFAR.nsf/0/AC9BED30F1D032B9852566AB006BC89C?OpenDocument FAR 43 Appendix A paragraph (c)(19)] permits the owner/pilot to remove and install cowlings, if the prop does not have to be removed, without A&amp;P supervision, after demonstrating the ability to do it correctly.<br /> <br /> On Travelers before 75, you can check the wiring by removing the screws on the right-hand lower cowling and letting the cowl side tip out from the firewall and nose bowl just enough to enable you to reach under the front cylinder and touch the wires on the back of the alternator. On 75 Travelers with the &quot;Cheetah nose&quot; and on all Cheetahs and Tigers, you have to remove the nose bowl to continue troubleshooting. That's OK, because you have already narrowed the source of the problem to that area anyway.<br /> <br /> With the nose bowl off, or at least the lower nose off if you have the split nose, now remove the alternator belt from the pulley. Our testing so far has not ruled out a worn, loose, or missing alternator belt, so make certain that the belt is in good condition and properly tensioned. <br /> <br /> Folks tend to underestimate the amount of tension required on this belt. Just recall that the amount of power required to turn the alternator increases as the SQUARE of its output (charging) current! Lycoming's service information was updated a couple years back, and they now suggest setting belt tension by checking to see if the belt will slip before reaching a specified torque. You can check this by putting a socket on the alternator drive pulley nut and setting a torque wrench to 540 in-lb (45 ft-lb), and then holding the prop and trying to turn the alternator (CCW when viewing it from the front) with the torque wrench. The wrench should indicate 540 in-lb BEFORE the pulley slips. The older method mentioned in the Maintenance Manual, no longer favored by Lycoming, was to press in the center of the belt span between the pulleys and measure the deflection. New belts were to have less deflection than those that were worn. Refer to the maintenance manual if you don't have a torque wrench handy.<br /> <br /> If the belt itself is in good condition and is tensioned correctly, the next step is to remove the alternator for inspection. First release the tension on the belt. To do this, cut the safety wire on the bolt holding the alternator to the bracket, then loosen the bolt enough so that you are able to push the alternator up, thus relieving the belt tension.<br /> <br /> In the next step, you remove the alternator, which is quite heavy. If you have a portable service table or stand, now would be a good time to position it under the alternator. Now remove the big bolt at the bottom of the alternator (the one that holds it to the engine mounting bracket). While supporting the alternator so the wiring is not stressed, remove the bolt that was safety wired. The alternator should slide off the engine mounting bracket and be attached only by the wiring on the back. <br /> <br /> Carefully turn the alternator around, and lift the rubber boot that hides the connection of the big wire to the back of the alternator. This is a VERY common failure point on the aging fleet. The wire breaks off the ring lug that is bolted down, and the alternator output is prevented from flowing back to the battery by the broken connection. Look also at the small wire that is bolted to the same connection. This is the &quot;A&quot; or sense wire which tells the Voltage Regulator what the alternator is doing. The sense wire is also a common failure point, though not as often as the larger output wire. Look at the other small wire which attaches to a different post. This is the &quot;F&quot; or field wire. If the resistance checks were normal earlier, then this wire should be fine; nevertheless, after 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Check the sheilding pigtails behind the alternator, they can rub on the baffling and get worn through.<br /> <br /> If there are no obvious failures in the wiring, you need to mark them and remove them so that the alternator can be tested at a shop. Pep-Boys and AutoZone will check your alternator for free. Tell them its from a 71 Ford Pickup with AC. That is the actual original application for the DOFF-10300J alternator on your plane.<br /> <br /> After the alternator is spun up and bench tested, all but the rarest and intermittent failures will have been diagnosed, and you will be repairing JUST the wiring, or replacing the alternator or the voltage regulator, and NOT spending money on needless repairs.<br /> <br /> Prior to installing the alternator, carefully inspect the U shaped mounting bracket for cracks. They are prone to crack across the middle of the U, often into one of the bolt holes. Replacement brackets are available from any Lycoming distributor or from FletchAir.</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Talk:Brake_System&diff=1492 2006-01-14T18:38:49Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Fixing_Soft_Brakes&diff=1491 2006-01-14T18:38:12Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>Mechanical Difficulty: [[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [Bob Steward writes] Properly maintaining the brake system on Grumman American aircraft is extremely important because the brakes are the only way to steer the plane on the ground at low speeds where the rudder is ineffective.<br /> <br /> Although the brake system on Grumman American singles is listed in the parts manual and sales brochures as having &quot;optional&quot; passenger side brakes, few seem to have been built with the &quot;standard&quot; brakes. Accordingly, I'll discuss the brake system as if they ALL have brake pedals on both sides.<br /> <br /> Due to the way the pilot's side master cylinders plumb through the co-pilot's side master cylinders, if the fluid is too low in the reservoir(s), the pilot's side brake pedal(s) can be soft and ineffective, and the co-pilot's side can still operate normally -- but perhaps only for a few applications, depending on the size of the leak. This can be used to your advantage if the brakes are checked as part of a pre-landing checklist (step on the toe brakes in flight and see if either is soft) by giving you advance warning of the loss of brake effectiveness and allowing you to either change seats if solo, or to transfer braking responsibilty to the co-pilot.<br /> <br /> The hydraulic brakes use a [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aeroshell_bflu.php Mil Spec fluid MIL-H-5606G], commonly referred to as &quot;5606&quot;. This is a red petroleum-based fluid, as opposed to the Glycol based automotive fluids, and the system is not compatible with any other fluid.<br /> <br /> The pilot's side master cylinders each have built-in reservoirs that contain the surplus fluid needed as the brake pads wear and the wheel cylinder piston moves out to take up the missing pad thickness. The proper fill level is approximately 1/4&quot; below the top of the reservoir, and can be measured with a pipe cleaner. Filling the system before the fluid level drops far enough to suck in air will prevent the loss of braking and subsequently, directional control on the ground.<br /> <br /> When air enters the brake system, the brake pedals become mushy, soft, and ineffective. When this occurs, the air must be replaced with brake fluid by &quot;bleeding&quot; the brakes. The brakes are bled by pumping clean 5606 fluid into the bottom bleeder valve on the brake cylinder located on the inboard aft side of each main wheel. A 1/4&quot; box end wrench is needed to loosen the bleeder. Note: Many people get confused about the direction to turn the bleeder screw, since it is upside down.<br /> <br /> The best way to force fluid into the system is by using a pistol-grip style oil can with a short section of clear plastic line slipped over the tip. The vinyl line used on aquarium air systems works well, as does certain types of surgical rubber tube. Prepare for servicing the brakes by filling the oil can with several ounces of 5606 fluid and by attaching the flex hose to the end of the can. Finally, pump the flexible hose full of brake fluid to avoid pumping air bubbles INTO the system.<br /> <br /> You're now ready to begin the bleeding procedure, which is greatly simplified by having a second person in the cockpit to monitor its progress.<br /> <br /> Remove the filler plug from the master cylinder reservoir on the correct side of the brake system, and then put your 1/4&quot; box end wrench on the bleeder fitting and crack it open. You'll know you've opened the fitting when a drop of fluid appears. While leaving the wrench on the bleeder hex-screw, slip the end of the preloaded flex hose over the end of the bleeder screw, loosen the bleeder screw an additional half-turn, and begin pumping enough to purge the air from the lines. My hand pump oil usually takes 15-20 strokes to accomplish this.<br /> <br /> Now, tighten the bleeder snugly--but leave the hose attached. Check the pedal on the pilot's side; if it's firm, then you can stop pumping. If not, open bleeder and continue pumping and checking until the pedal is firm.<br /> <br /> After bleeding the brakes, check the fluid level with a pipe cleaner to make certain that it's within 1/4&quot; of the top of the reservoir. If the fluid is lower, bring your pump inside and fill the reservoir. Re-install the filler plug when done.<br /> <br /> In addition to loss of brake fluid, there are many reasons why the brake pedal might become soft. A history of fluid loss requires a careful inspection of the brake masters, the flex lines in the cockpit, the hard lines in the cockpit, and especially the aluminum hard lines from the wing walk area to the wheel cylinders. Cracks in the flare of the aluminum tube where it enters the caliper are very common, especially on the older members of the fleet. The entire line can be replaced with a new part from FletchAir or one fabricated in the field from [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/mepages/alumtube_5052.php 5052-O aluminum tube (0.035&quot; wall)] or many have been repaired with a [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/aq666.php 6&quot; section of teflon lined steel braided hose] and a [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an815.php straight union AN fitting] to couple the re-flared line to the female flex hose.<br /> <br /> Those planes with rubber covers over the main gear legs will need to split the aft edge of the rubber cover to access the aluminum brake line on the aft side of the main gear leg. The rubber comes in 2 halves and was glued together when installed. The glue can usually be separated with a dull butter knife. It will shear the glue without cutting the rubber cover. The trailing edge can be re-glued with [http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?ssssssa&amp;kDGsMWtsFWtssTTddDvSSSSR- 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive], which is available in black or yellow.<br /> <br /> Due to a change in the parking brake design on some '78 and all '79 and later 4-place, a rather baffling loss of fluid can occur. The fluid can disappear from one master cylinder reservoir, and over fill the other! The parking brakes are plumbed with a [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/pbvalves.php valve] that can be closed to hold braking pressure after the pedals are released, and the o-rings in the valve are known to fail such that the pressure is leaked from one half the system to the other side with no external leaking. The fix is to remove the parking brake valve from the firewall ahead of the co-pilot's rudder pedals and repair it with a new set of o-rings.</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1490 2006-01-14T18:31:00Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel. If the flap motor and drive assembly is moving the flaps too much or too little travel, then its probably a limit switch problem, either adjustment or failure. If the correct amount of travel in total degrees of movement is correct, then the flap drive mechanicsm can be adjusted via the heim joints on each side to place the flap in the correct position at the UP stop. An note on adjusting the flaps, many planes have excessive play in the flaps. This seems especially prevalent on the AA-5 series, which have a more complex flap drive and more places to allow wear and increase the play. This would also be a good time to verify that the aileron torque tube is accurately centered within the flap torque tube. This keeps the pins on the special flap drive bolts from possibly wearing a groove in the aileron torque tube.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar.<br /> <br /> Cable tensioning requires a cable tensiometer, which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start. Additionally you will need to be familiar with the [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628b.html correct way to safety wire a turnbuckle], and you'd be surprised at the number of A&amp;Ps that can't do it right without looking at the book. The advantage of the [http://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/Products/?PartNumber=MS21256-2&amp; MS21256] style safety clips is that they are quick and easy to install correctly, and they [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628a.html can be installed one-handed in a tight spot] where trying to wrap safety wire would be very difficult. I've seen a mix of turnbuckles installed on the fleet. Some have the groove in the threads for the safety clips, and some don't.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1489 2006-01-14T18:29:51Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel. If the flap motor and drive assembly is moving the flaps too much or too little travel, then its probably a limit switch problem, either adjustment or failure. If the correct amount of travel in total degrees of movement is correct, then the flap drive mechanicsm can be adjusted via the heim joints on each side to place the flap in the correct position at the UP stop. An note on adjusting the flaps, many planes have excessive play in the flaps. This seems especially prevalent on the AA-5 series, which have a more complex flap drive and more places to allow wear and increase the play. This would also be a good time to verify that the aileron torque tube is accurately centered within the flap torque tube. This keeps the pins on the special flap drive bolts from possibly wearing a groove in the aileron torque tube.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar.<br /> <br /> Cable tensioning requires a cable tensiometer, which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start. Additionally you will need to be familiar with the [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628b.html correct way to safety wire a turnbuckle], and you'd be surprised at the number of A&amp;Ps that can't do it right without looking at the book. The advantage of the [http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=MS21256-1&amp;Category=78ec149d-ecef-4c56-8695-2a6e720af22d MS21256] style safety clips is that they are quick and easy to install correctly, and they [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628a.html can be installed one-handed in a tight spot] where trying to wrap safety wire would be very difficult. I've seen a mix of turnbuckles installed on the fleet. Some have the groove in the threads for the safety clips, and some don't.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Charging_Systems&diff=1485 2006-01-14T18:21:36Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Mechanical Difficulty:'''[[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [Bob Steward writes]<br /> The Basics:<br /> The battery stores power chemically, the alternator converts the engine's rotating motion into electrical energy, the Voltage Regulator controls the alternator's output to keep the battery charged, but not over charged (which results in boiling out its acid).<br /> <br /> Your battery stopped charging during your last flight. You shed loads by turning off unneeded equipment until you arrived at the airport and landed normally. Congrats on handling the inflight portion properly. Now how do you get it repaired?<br /> <br /> You need to find out exactly which part failed. The usual FBO response is to replace the alternator AND the voltage regulator. They don't have to do much troubleshooting and they sell lots of expensive parts. A Field Rep for [http://www.kellyaerospace.com/index.html Kelly Aerospace], one of the largest OH shops for alternators, came to an FAA Safety meeting that I attended. He told us that 8 out of 10 alternators returned to them as cores for OH worked when tested before disassembly. He stated that we as A&amp;P mechanics in the field were NOT doing our job properly, and that we needed to apply better troubleshooting techniques rather than replace so many functional alternators.<br /> <br /> If you have a Volt-Ohm meter, you can save lots of time and money. Inexpensive voltmeters are widely available from such vendors as [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92020 Harbor Freight] and [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103534 Radio Shack], often for as little as $10.<br /> <br /> To help you know what wire goes where, the maintenance manual has detailed schematics. Gary Vogt has re-drawn the [http://www.aucountry.com/Team_Folder/Technical/Wire_76-77.html 76-77] and the [http://www.aucountry.com/Team_Folder/Technical/Wire_78-79.html 78-79] Tiger/Cheetah schematics in a little less technical detail.<br /> <br /> All the troubleshooting described below is done with the engine OFF and the keys in your pocket.<br /> <br /> Open the cowl and locate the voltage regulator. On Grumman American singles its on the passenger side just inboard of the motor mount attach point, directly above the battery. On AA-5x you'll see a connector on the bottom with several wires. Look closely and you'll see that they are marked with letters on the regulator.<br /> <br /> Visually check all of the wires and their crimped fittings. Pull gently on the crimped fittings.. none of them should be loose. After 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Look for breaks in the shielding pigtails.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;S&quot; terminal and turn on the Master. Using your VOM, measure the voltage between the S terminal and a good ground such as the battery's negative terminal. The VOM should read close to 12.6 volts on a fully charged battery. In this example, however, your battery is not fully charged after the in-flight failure of the charging system, so a measurement equal to 10 volts or greater is acceptable. If an acceptable voltage is present, then your Master Switch, Master Relay, Alt Field Circuit Breaker and the associated wiring are all working well enough to charge the battery from the alternator. Therefore, your problem is elsewhere. Continue on.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;F&quot; terminal and measure the voltage just as you did at the &quot;S&quot; terminal. As before, if the measured voltage is within a couple of volts of the nominal battery voltage, then the regulator is correctly trying to &quot;excite&quot; the alternator field so that the alternator can produce an output. Therefore, your problem is elsewhere. Continue on.<br /> <br /> Reset the VOM to measure resistance instead of voltage. Remove the &quot;F&quot; wire from the regulator and measure between the wire and ground. You should measure less than 10 ohms of resistance, and usually about 5 ohms. If you have significantly higher resistance (say 20 ohms or more) then there are problems with the alternator field or brushes, or possibly the wiring going to the alternator is in bad condition. A reading of less than 5 ohms, would indicate a short in the Field wire or inside the alternator. Otherwise, since you have the appropriate resistance between the &quot;F&quot; wire and ground, you are through checking the easy stuff, and are ready to pull the nose bowl.<br /> <br /> '''Turn OFF the Master at this time.''' We are through with the powered portion of the testing, so turn off the Master switch.<br /> <br /> Right about now you are wishing that you had installed the split nose bowl STC, because without it you have to remove the propeller to gains access to the alternator.<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Up to this point, we were just CHECKING electrical measurements without any actual disassembly of the plane. If you do not have the split nose bowl STC, then this is the point at which you will require A&amp;P supervision to complete the testing, removal and replacement of the alternator, prop, mounting bracket, etc. [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgFAR.nsf/0/AC9BED30F1D032B9852566AB006BC89C?OpenDocument FAR 43 Appendix A paragraph (c)(19)] permits the owner/pilot to remove and install cowlings, if the prop does not have to be removed, without A&amp;P supervision, after demonstrating the ability to do it correctly.<br /> <br /> On Travelers before 75, you can check the wiring by removing the screws on the right-hand lower cowling and letting the cowl side tip out from the firewall and nose bowl just enough to enable you to reach under the front cylinder and touch the wires on the back of the alternator. On 75 Travelers with the &quot;Cheetah nose&quot; and on all Cheetahs and Tigers, you have to remove the nose bowl to continue troubleshooting. That's OK, because you have already narrowed the source of the problem to that area anyway.<br /> <br /> With the nose bowl off, or at least the lower nose off if you have the split nose, now remove the alternator belt from the pulley. Our testing so far has not ruled out a worn, loose, or missing alternator belt, so make certain that the belt is in good condition and properly tensioned. <br /> <br /> Folks tend to underestimate the amount of tension required on this belt. Just recall that the amount of power required to turn the alternator increases as the SQUARE of its output (charging) current! Lycoming's service information was updated a couple years back, and they now suggest setting belt tension by checking to see if the belt will slip before reaching a specified torque. You can check this by putting a socket on the alternator drive pulley nut and setting a torque wrench to 540 in-lb (45 ft-lb), and then holding the prop and trying to turn the alternator (CCW when viewing it from the front) with the torque wrench. The wrench should indicate 540 in-lb BEFORE the pulley slips. The older method mentioned in the Maintenance Manual, no longer favored by Lycoming, was to press in the center of the belt span between the pulleys and measure the deflection. New belts were to have less deflection than those that were worn. Refer to the maintenance manual if you don't have a torque wrench handy.<br /> <br /> If the belt itself is in good condition and is tensioned correctly, the next step is to remove the alternator for inspection. First release the tension on the belt. To do this, cut the safety wire on the bolt holding the alternator to the bracket, then loosen the bolt enough so that you are able to push the alternator up, thus relieving the belt tension.<br /> <br /> In the next step, you remove the alternator, which is quite heavy. If you have a portable service table or stand, now would be a good time to position it under the alternator. Now remove the big bolt at the bottom of the alternator (the one that holds it to the engine mounting bracket). While supporting the alternator so the wiring is not stressed, remove the bolt that was safety wired. The alternator should slide off the engine mounting bracket and be attached only by the wiring on the back. <br /> <br /> Carefully turn the alternator around, and lift the rubber boot that hides the connection of the big wire to the back of the alternator. This is a VERY common failure point on the aging fleet. The wire breaks off the ring lug that is bolted down, and the alternator output is prevented from flowing back to the battery by the broken connection. Look also at the small wire that is bolted to the same connection. This is the &quot;A&quot; or sense wire which tells the Voltage Regulator what the alternator is doing. The sense wire is also a common failure point, though not as often as the larger output wire. Look at the other small wire which attaches to a different post. This is the &quot;F&quot; or field wire. If the resistance checks were normal earlier, then this wire should be fine; nevertheless, after 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Check the sheilding pigtails behind the alternator, they can rub on the baffling and get worn through.<br /> <br /> If there are no obvious failures in the wiring, you need to mark them and remove them so that the alternator can be tested at a shop. Pep-Boys and AutoZone will check your alternator for free. Tell them its from a 71 Ford Pickup with AC. That is the actual original application for the DOFF-10300J alternator on your plane.<br /> <br /> After the alternator is spun up and bench tested, all but the rarest and intermittent failures will have been diagnosed, and you will be repairing JUST the wiring, or replacing the alternator or the voltage regulator, and NOT spending money on needless repairs.<br /> <br /> Prior to installing the alternator, carefully inspect the U shaped mounting bracket for cracks. They are prone to crack across the middle of the U, often into one of the bolt holes. Replacement brackets are available from any Lycoming distributor or from FletchAir.</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Charging_Systems&diff=1484 2006-01-14T18:20:44Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Mechanical Difficulty:'''[[Image:Wrench2.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [Bob Steward writes]<br /> The Basics:<br /> The battery stores power chemically, the alternator converts the engine's rotating motion into electrical energy, the Voltage Regulator controls the alternator's output to keep the battery charged, but not over charged (which results in boiling out its acid).<br /> <br /> Your battery stopped charging during your last flight. You shed loads by turning off unneeded equipment until you arrived at the airport and landed normally. Congrats on handling the inflight portion properly. Now how do you get it repaired?<br /> <br /> You need to find out exactly which part failed. The usual FBO response is to replace the alternator AND the voltage regulator. They don't have to do much troubleshooting and they sell lots of expensive parts. A Field Rep for [http://www.kellyaerospace.com/index.html Kelly Aerospace], one of the largest OH shops for alternators, came to an FAA Safety meeting that I attended. He told us that 8 out of 10 alternators returned to them as cores for OH worked when tested before disassembly. He stated that we as A&amp;P mechanics in the field were NOT doing our job properly, and that we needed to apply better troubleshooting techniques rather than replace so many functional alternators.<br /> <br /> If you have a Volt-Ohm meter, you can save lots of time and money. Inexpensive voltmeters are widely available from such vendors as [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=92020 Harbor Freight] and [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103534 Radio Shack], often for as little as $10.<br /> <br /> To help you know what wire goes where, the maintenance manual has detailed schematics. Gary Vogt has re-drawn the for the [http://www.aucountry.com/Team_Folder/Technical/Wire_76-77.html 76-77] and the [http://www.aucountry.com/Team_Folder/Technical/Wire_78-79.html 78-79] Tiger/Cheetah schematics in a little less technical detail.<br /> <br /> All the troubleshooting described below is done with the engine OFF and the keys in your pocket.<br /> <br /> Open the cowl and locate the voltage regulator. On Grumman American singles its on the passenger side just inboard of the motor mount attach point, directly above the battery. On AA-5x you'll see a connector on the bottom with several wires. Look closely and you'll see that they are marked with letters on the regulator.<br /> <br /> Visually check all of the wires and their crimped fittings. Pull gently on the crimped fittings.. none of them should be loose. After 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Look for breaks in the shielding pigtails.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;S&quot; terminal and turn on the Master. Using your VOM, measure the voltage between the S terminal and a good ground such as the battery's negative terminal. The VOM should read close to 12.6 volts on a fully charged battery. In this example, however, your battery is not fully charged after the in-flight failure of the charging system, so a measurement equal to 10 volts or greater is acceptable. If an acceptable voltage is present, then your Master Switch, Master Relay, Alt Field Circuit Breaker and the associated wiring are all working well enough to charge the battery from the alternator. Therefore, your problem is elsewhere. Continue on.<br /> <br /> Locate the &quot;F&quot; terminal and measure the voltage just as you did at the &quot;S&quot; terminal. As before, if the measured voltage is within a couple of volts of the nominal battery voltage, then the regulator is correctly trying to &quot;excite&quot; the alternator field so that the alternator can produce an output. Therefore, your problem is elsewhere. Continue on.<br /> <br /> Reset the VOM to measure resistance instead of voltage. Remove the &quot;F&quot; wire from the regulator and measure between the wire and ground. You should measure less than 10 ohms of resistance, and usually about 5 ohms. If you have significantly higher resistance (say 20 ohms or more) then there are problems with the alternator field or brushes, or possibly the wiring going to the alternator is in bad condition. A reading of less than 5 ohms, would indicate a short in the Field wire or inside the alternator. Otherwise, since you have the appropriate resistance between the &quot;F&quot; wire and ground, you are through checking the easy stuff, and are ready to pull the nose bowl.<br /> <br /> '''Turn OFF the Master at this time.''' We are through with the powered portion of the testing, so turn off the Master switch.<br /> <br /> Right about now you are wishing that you had installed the split nose bowl STC, because without it you have to remove the propeller to gains access to the alternator.<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[Image:Wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> Up to this point, we were just CHECKING electrical measurements without any actual disassembly of the plane. If you do not have the split nose bowl STC, then this is the point at which you will require A&amp;P supervision to complete the testing, removal and replacement of the alternator, prop, mounting bracket, etc. [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgFAR.nsf/0/AC9BED30F1D032B9852566AB006BC89C?OpenDocument FAR 43 Appendix A paragraph (c)(19)] permits the owner/pilot to remove and install cowlings, if the prop does not have to be removed, without A&amp;P supervision, after demonstrating the ability to do it correctly.<br /> <br /> On Travelers before 75, you can check the wiring by removing the screws on the right-hand lower cowling and letting the cowl side tip out from the firewall and nose bowl just enough to enable you to reach under the front cylinder and touch the wires on the back of the alternator. On 75 Travelers with the &quot;Cheetah nose&quot; and on all Cheetahs and Tigers, you have to remove the nose bowl to continue troubleshooting. That's OK, because you have already narrowed the source of the problem to that area anyway.<br /> <br /> With the nose bowl off, or at least the lower nose off if you have the split nose, now remove the alternator belt from the pulley. Our testing so far has not ruled out a worn, loose, or missing alternator belt, so make certain that the belt is in good condition and properly tensioned. <br /> <br /> Folks tend to underestimate the amount of tension required on this belt. Just recall that the amount of power required to turn the alternator increases as the SQUARE of its output (charging) current! Lycoming's service information was updated a couple years back, and they now suggest setting belt tension by checking to see if the belt will slip before reaching a specified torque. You can check this by putting a socket on the alternator drive pulley nut and setting a torque wrench to 540 in-lb (45 ft-lb), and then holding the prop and trying to turn the alternator (CCW when viewing it from the front) with the torque wrench. The wrench should indicate 540 in-lb BEFORE the pulley slips. The older method mentioned in the Maintenance Manual, no longer favored by Lycoming, was to press in the center of the belt span between the pulleys and measure the deflection. New belts were to have less deflection than those that were worn. Refer to the maintenance manual if you don't have a torque wrench handy.<br /> <br /> If the belt itself is in good condition and is tensioned correctly, the next step is to remove the alternator for inspection. First release the tension on the belt. To do this, cut the safety wire on the bolt holding the alternator to the bracket, then loosen the bolt enough so that you are able to push the alternator up, thus relieving the belt tension.<br /> <br /> In the next step, you remove the alternator, which is quite heavy. If you have a portable service table or stand, now would be a good time to position it under the alternator. Now remove the big bolt at the bottom of the alternator (the one that holds it to the engine mounting bracket). While supporting the alternator so the wiring is not stressed, remove the bolt that was safety wired. The alternator should slide off the engine mounting bracket and be attached only by the wiring on the back. <br /> <br /> Carefully turn the alternator around, and lift the rubber boot that hides the connection of the big wire to the back of the alternator. This is a VERY common failure point on the aging fleet. The wire breaks off the ring lug that is bolted down, and the alternator output is prevented from flowing back to the battery by the broken connection. Look also at the small wire that is bolted to the same connection. This is the &quot;A&quot; or sense wire which tells the Voltage Regulator what the alternator is doing. The sense wire is also a common failure point, though not as often as the larger output wire. Look at the other small wire which attaches to a different post. This is the &quot;F&quot; or field wire. If the resistance checks were normal earlier, then this wire should be fine; nevertheless, after 30+ years in service all these wires warrant close examination. Generally inspect the wires for large cracks in the insulation, or, where appropriate, the shielding. Check the sheilding pigtails behind the alternator, they can rub on the baffling and get worn through.<br /> <br /> If there are no obvious failures in the wiring, you need to mark them and remove them so that the alternator can be tested at a shop. Pep-Boys and AutoZone will check your alternator for free. Tell them its from a 71 Ford Pickup with AC. That is the actual original application for the DOFF-10300J alternator on your plane.<br /> <br /> After the alternator is spun up and bench tested, all but the rarest and intermittent failures will have been diagnosed, and you will be repairing JUST the wiring, or replacing the alternator or the voltage regulator, and NOT spending money on needless repairs.<br /> <br /> Prior to installing the alternator, carefully inspect the U shaped mounting bracket for cracks. They are prone to crack across the middle of the U, often into one of the bolt holes. Replacement brackets are available from any Lycoming distributor or from FletchAir.</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Fuel_Tank_Leaks&diff=1482 2006-01-14T18:13:56Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>Fuel Tank Leaks<br /> <br /> Mechanical Difficulty: [[Image:wrench2.jpg]] to [[Image:wrench4.jpg]]<br /> <br /> On the AA-1x series there are only 4 possible leak points from the wing spar tanks. Each end of the spar tube has a machined aluminum plug with an O-ring in a groove around the outside of the plug. The outboard plug is secured in place with 4 AN3 bolts which have special washers known as [http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/stat-o-seal.asp &quot;Stat-o-seals&quot;]. The inboard plug is secured in place with either 1 or 2 AN3 bolts, depending on the year model. The same Stat-o-seals are used on the bolts at the inboard end. Deterioration of the O-rings or the rubber covered Stat-o-seals can result in leaks. At the inboard end of the spar tank a block of aluminum is bonded on the bottom of the spar and a hole through the spar and the bonded block allow for draining the sump. A short section of 1/4&quot; rubber hose leads from the bonded block to a cast fitting and the drain valve. This hose can fail and leak the entire contents of the tank.<br /> <br /> On the AA-5x series there are 4 access panels on the bottom of each wing that are sealed with a special [http://www.aviationproducts.net/flamemaster/tds/cs3330b_tds.html &quot;low adhesion&quot; sealant]. There has been an [http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgad.nsf/0/DCA089D17D5FBD8E862569AF00767BF2?OpenDocument AD on the sealant used by the factory], and it is normal to require periodic re-sealing of the access covers. The wing ribs have a hole that is slightly larger than the wing spar tube. This leaves a gap of 1/16&quot;-3/32&quot; between the rib and the spar tube that the factory filled with a fillet of sealant. After 30+ years that fillet of sealant may leak as the wing flexes and stretches the sealant. The perimeter of the tank along all the bonded joints has been know to leak in the event of an incomplete bonded section or in the case of the purple glue on the late 74 through early 76 models, at areas of debonding. The fuel level sender on the inboard rib of the tank has a rubber gasket that deteriorates with age and can leak. The tank vent tube comes out both ends of the tank and can leak at the inboard end where some models have a section of rubber hose that connects to the next length of aluminum tubing. The AA-5x series can have tank leaks at the access covers, around the inboard and outboard spar to rib joint, at the fuel level sender gasket, the fuel pickup fittings and at bonded joints that are incomplete or failing. Its no wonder that the AA-5x have many more fuel leak problems than the AA-1x.<br /> <br /> The first step is to identify the true source of the leak(s). On AA-1x, this is straight forward, as there are fewer leak points, and they tend not to be confused with each other. Leaks at the outboard end of the tank are due to the large o-ring around the outer plug that also contains the filler neck, or around the Stat-o-seals. Leaks at the inboard end that drip at the center of the fuselage are from the large o-ring at the inboard plug, leaks inside the wing are either Stat-o-seal leaks or sump drain hose leaks.<br /> <br /> [[Image:DCP_8269.jpg|right|thumbnail|Installing access panels in the orange airplane, a '71 AA1A, s/n AA1A-0031. FletchAir provided kits, complete with pre-drilled doublers and covers. More photos from sbw: http://urlizer.com/00/1903/]]<br /> <br /> The inboard plug o-ring leaks require pulling the wing panel. All the others can be repaired with the wing on the plane. Late model AA-1B and all the AA-1C have access panels on the bottom of the wing in the area of the drain hose. These can be added to early models.<br /> <br /> AA-5x wing tanks are more difficult to identify the true source of the leak(s). Many would be tank sealers have been fooled by the location of the leaks, and have diligently scraped and cleaned the old sealant out of the tank in the area they THOUGHT the leak was located in, and then re-sealed with the proper high adhesion sealant, only to find that the exact same leak reappeared upon filling the tank.<br /> <br /> One method of locating the actual leak is to pressure test the tank. This is accomplished by removing all the fuel and then applying air pressure to the tank and spraying soapy water over the area where the leak is suspected to be. This will work around fuel level sender gaskets, fuel pick up bulkhead fittings, skin to rib bonded lap joints, and around the spar to rib joint.<br /> <br /> Care must be taken to limit the pressure applied. The large surface area of the tank skin turns even very small pressures into TONS of load on the skin. '''Its possible to destroy a wing if air from a compressor is applied. The pressure applied for testing is measured in INCHES OF WATER COLUMN, not PSI!'''<br /> <br /> Blowing into the tank vent with lung pressure is one convenient source of air that can not cause tank failures. Some gauges suitable for regulated propane or natural gas pressure, and a bicycle pump are another possibility.</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1480 2006-01-14T18:10:12Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel. If the flap motor and drive assembly is moving the flaps too much or too little travel, then its probably a limit switch problem, either adjustment or failure. If the correct amount of travel in total degrees of movement is correct, then the flap drive mechanicsm can be adjusted via the heim joints on each side to place the flap in the correct position at the UP stop. An note on adjusting the flaps, many planes have excessive play in the flaps. This seems especially prevalent on the AA-5 series, which have a more complex flap drive and more places to allow wear and increase the play.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar.<br /> <br /> Cable tensioning requires a cable tensiometer, which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start. Additionally you will need to be familiar with the [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628b.html correct way to safety wire a turnbuckle], and you'd be surprised at the number of A&amp;Ps that can't do it right without looking at the book. The advantage of the [http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=MS21256-1&amp;Category=78ec149d-ecef-4c56-8695-2a6e720af22d MS21256] style safety clips is that they are quick and easy to install correctly, and they [http://avstop.com/AC/apgeneral/628a.html can be installed one-handed in a tight spot] where trying to wrap safety wire would be very difficult. I've seen a mix of turnbuckles installed on the fleet. Some have the groove in the threads for the safety clips, and some don't.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1478 2006-01-14T18:05:27Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel. If the flap motor and drive assembly is moving the flaps too much or too little travel, then its probably a limit switch problem, either adjustment or failure. If the correct amount of travel in total degrees of movement is correct, then the flap drive mechanicsm can be adjusted via the heim joints on each side to place the flap in the correct position at the UP stop. An note on adjusting the flaps, many planes have excessive play in the flaps. This seems especially prevalent on the AA-5 series, which have a more complex flap drive and more places to allow wear and increase the play.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar.<br /> <br /> Cable tensioning requires a cable tensiometer, which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start. Additionally you will need to be familiar with the correct way to safety wire a turnbuckle, and you'd be surprised at the number of A&amp;Ps that can't do it right without looking at the book. The advantage of the [http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=MS21256-1&amp;Category=78ec149d-ecef-4c56-8695-2a6e720af22d MS21256] style safety clips is that they are quick and easy to install correctly, and they can be installed one-handed in a tight spot where trying to wrap safety wire would be very difficult. I've seen a mix of turnbuckles installed on the fleet. Some have the groove in the threads for the safety clips, and some don't.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1477 2006-01-14T18:04:15Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel. If the flap motor and drive assembly is moving the flaps too much or too little travel, then its probably a limit switch problem, either adjustment or failure. If the correct amount of travel in total degrees of movement is correct, then the flap drive mechanicsm can be adjusted via the heim joints on each side to place the flap in the correct position at the UP stop. An note on adjusting the flaps, many planes have excessive play in the flaps. This seems especially prevalent on the AA-5 series, which have a more complex flap drive and more places to allow wear and increase the play.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar.<br /> <br /> Cable tensioning requires a cable tensiometer, which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start. Additionally you will need to be familiar with the correct way to safety wire a turnbuckle, and you'd be surprised at the number of A&amp;Ps that can't do it right without looking at the book. The advantage of the MS21256 style safety clips is that they are quick and easy to install correctly, and they can be installed one-handed in a tight spot where trying to wrap safety wire would be very difficult. I've seen a mix of turnbuckles installed on the fleet. Some have the groove in the threads for the safety clips, and some don't.<br /> <br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1476 2006-01-14T18:00:11Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel. If the flap motor and drive assembly is moving the flaps too much or too little travel, then its probably a limit switch problem, either adjustment or failure. If the correct amount of travel in total degrees of movement is correct, then the flap drive mechanicsm can be adjusted via the heim joints on each side to place the flap in the correct position at the UP stop. An note on adjusting the flaps, many planes have excessive play in the flaps. This seems especially prevalent on the AA-5 series, which have a more complex flap drive and more places to allow wear and increase the play.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar.<br /> <br /> Cable tensioning requires a cable tensiometer, which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start.<br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1475 2006-01-14T17:49:51Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar. Cable tensioning requires a cable tensiometer, which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> The [http://www.aircraftspruce.com/pdf/catalog/Cat06142.pdf safety clips or the safety wire] are NOT to be reused, so be sure to have some on hand before you start.<br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1474 2006-01-14T17:45:44Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults. The cables can be incorrectly tensioned, the adjustment of the front cables to the control yoke and be miss-ajusted relative to the aft &quot;turn around&quot; cable that connects the 2 cables from the yokes, the aileron outboard bracket can be bent or damaged, and the outboard aileron bracket can be positioned incorrectly on the aft spar. Cable tensioning requires a cable tensiometer, which ought to have its calibration checked, if you are unsure of its testing and certification status. The basic operation is to clamp the tensiometer onto the cable in question and read the tension on the scale appropriate for the diameter of the cable. Adjustments are made by removing the safety wire or locking clip that holds the turnbuckle such that it can not let the cables unscrew from its ends. The first thing one needs to know about turnbuckles is that they have RH threads on one end, and LH threads on the other, such that if one holds the cable ends, and rotate the turnbuckle, you will either loosen or tighten the cable tension. It is important that you not turn one cable to change the tension.<br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Rigging_Checks_and_adjustments&diff=1473 2006-01-14T17:25:57Z

<p>68.166.31.129: </p> <hr /> <div>'''Rigging Checks'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''This is a job which an owner/pilot can do without any additional supervision or sign off, because you are only CHECKING the control travel, not making adjustments to the primary flight controls.'''<br /> <br /> Checking the rigging on a Grumman is a very simple job if you have the factory templates shown in the Maintenance Manual. They are available for rent from [http://www.fletchair.com/onlineBrochure/08-11_Sec12.pdf FletchAir] on a weekly basis.<br /> <br /> Many rigging checks can be made without the factory templates, with slightly more effort. Each year at the [http://www.aya.org/events/20060710-t82/ AYA Convention], the rigging templates and the Rigging Check volunteers are available to help owners check for discrepancies in their rigging of their planes.<br /> <br /> The goal of rigging checks (and adjustments as needed) is to bring the plane into compliance with its Type Certificate Data Sheet specs, and to improve the handling and performance of the plane. In the hundreds of planes checked at the AYA conventions since 1998-- at the first Cody Convention when I spearheaded the effort to start the rigging checks, I have yet to see ONE PLANE that had correct rigging on all surfaces. All that I have personally checked had at least 2 measurements out of spec. Too little or too much control displacement, but always at least 2 out of spec!<br /> <br /> Significant performance changes can be obtained by removing the errors and getting the plane correctly rigged. At conventions its been sort of a tradition to help correct the plane that &quot;wins&quot; the worst rigged plane award. There have been stabilizers without enough UP travel that caused the pilot to always land at 90 mph, planes with bent outboard aileron bearing brackets that had made it impossible to fly &quot;hands off&quot; since the plane was purchased by its current owner, and an amazing array of other rigging errors that induced all sorts of strange handling characteristics that the owners just put up with. Then there were those rigged so poorly that they had significant performance deficits. Some people have spent many thousands of dollars for &quot;speed mods&quot;, and found more performance in FREE rigging adjustments than in all their combined speed mod improvements.<br /> <br /> <br /> '''Rigging Adjustments'''<br /> <br /> '''Mechanical Difficulty:''' [[image:wrench2.jpg]] '''-''' [[image: wrench3.jpg]]<br /> <br /> '''Any adjustments to the flight controls requires appropriate certificates and a log book sign off. You will need an Airframe mechanic to supervise and sign off the following work. '''<br /> <br /> After rigging checks determine that there are control travels outside the specified limits, the next step is to attempt to correct the errors. On the elevator and rudder, the adjustments are under the plastic tail cone. They consist of 4 stop bolts with jam nuts on them to prevent unwanted movement of the stops. Loosen the jam nut on the stop in question (7/16&quot; offset box end wrench is the best tool I've found), and then turn the stop bolt IN for more travel and OUT for less. Re-check with template or protractor to confirm the adjustment, and when correct, re-snug the jam nut. Most of the Type Certificate Data Sheet specs give a range of travel that is acceptable. Adjusting to the maximum travel will give the most control authority, and may provide the last bit of control that you need some day.<br /> <br /> The Elevator trim can not be &quot;adjusted&quot; for total travel, but it can be adjusted to center the travel such that the UP and DN limits are correct. The most common cause of elevator trim miss-rigging is lack of maintenance. The trim wheel in the console between the front seats drives the indicator, and it also drives a pair of bevel gears that convert the motion of the wheel into rotation of the trim drive, a long aluminum tube just above the floor in the tail cone. Failure to clean the old dried grease and grit from the gears, from the bearings that support the trim drive tube, and from the threads and actuator nut in the plastic tail cone can lead to excess torque required to move the trim. This can cause the bevel gears to slip, and cause the trim position indicator to no longer be sync'd with the actual position of the trim. The fix is to clean all the trim drive parts and re-lubricate them, and then set the indicator to match the elevator trim by disengaging the bevel gears and re-meshing them. Its also important to check the backlash in the gears and adjust the depth of their engagement, so that the trim won't easily return to its mis-adjusted state.<br /> <br /> Flaps are rigged by adjusting 2 pairs of Heim joints, one pair for each side. The first step is to inspect for the correct AMOUNT of total travel.<br /> <br /> Aileron rigging is subject to several possible faults.<br /> <br /> &lt;To be continued&gt;</div>

68.166.31.129 https://bondline.org/index.php?title=Bondline&diff=1472 2006-01-14T17:21:20Z

<p>68.166.31.129: /* Important Grumman Resources */</p> <hr /> <div>Bondline is a place for Grumman owners and pilots to share their knowledge.<br /> <br /> === Important Grumman Resources ===<br /> <br /> * [http://www.aya.org/ Join AYA, the International Type Club for Grummans ''Now'']!<br /> <br /> * Subscribe to the [http://www.grumman.net/ Grumman-Gang] email list.<br /> <br /> === Technical Information ===<br /> <br /> [[Image:P9130251.JPG|thumb|300 px|Orange Airplane]]<br /> <br /> * [[337s]]<br /> <br /> * [[Brake System]]<br /> <br /> * [[Charging Systems]]<br /> <br /> * [[Fuel Tank Leaks]]<br /> <br /> * [[Interior Trim]]<br /> <br /> * [[Pre-Purchase Inspections]]<br /> <br /> * [[Rigging Checks and adjustments]]</div>

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